MF265 draw bar mount spec

[keljan11]

I think the torque should be over 200 ft lbs for 3/4 bolts like that. It also would be a good idea to retorque after a few heat cycles of the tractor.

That sounds like a good idea. Will try retorquing a few times after some heat cycles. Will also increase the torque as well. Thanx

 

[redman135]

Have you changed the SPRING washers? After many years they loose their spring and don't work. I had a similar problem with studs on the front of the tractor(nose protector frame).
Also check to stud hole depth and compare the stud length to hole depth, you may be able to use longer studs.
I never had any drawbar mounting studs come loose on me when I was farming, so I think the hay baler is a red herring.

 

[keljan11]

Have you changed the SPRING washers? After many years they loose their spring and don't work. I had a similar problem with studs on the front of the tractor(nose protector frame).
Also check to stud hole depth and compare the stud length to hole depth, you may be able to use longer studs.
I never had any drawbar mounting studs come loose on me when I was farming, so I think the hay baler is a red herring.

Yes, I have changed the lock washers (a couple of times, since it fell off the first time). New bolts and washers too, as well as chased the threads with a bottoming tap, to try and clean any grease/dirt out of the threads.
Am thinking the constant plunger force (packing the bales) are just causing stress on the drawbar/bolts, etc., as the tractor rocks quite a bit if the pto is running even when tractor is idled down when stopped.
Am going to try what 'working on rust' suggested, torquing the bolts after some heat cycles, a few times. Will see what happens in the future, as I'm hoping I won't get a 4th cut before the snow flies