mf35 won't start

   / mf35 won't start #1  

jonmf35

New member
Joined
Nov 13, 2007
Messages
3
Ok guys this sounds crazy but here goes tractor died one day while digging post holes acted like it ran out of gas. nope, managed to get it started a couple of times but didn稚 run long. this is what I have done so far, rebuilt carb, cleaned fuel lines, spark plugs, points, rotor, cap, regulator checked valves I have plenty of spark and plenty gas I have tried either also, no go.
Some have suggested timing I have not taken the dist out but have moved it. Is there any thing that could have broke while running the auger? can anybody help fuel + spark = start right?
 
   / mf35 won't start #2  
Something like this, the first thing you do is start with the basics. For an engine to run, you need one more part to the equation, compression. Pull all of your spark plugs, remove the coil wire, and check cranking compression with a decent tester. I like to write the reading on the valve cover right above the spark plug with a paint pen. This way there are no doubts. You want all your readings to be within about 10-15% of each other. I'm not sure what the minimum is for your engine, but less than 90 lbs. and I would have questions. If a compression check comes up good, you know that all the engine internals are working properly.

If this comes up okay, get the #1 cylinder to top dead center and check where the rotor is pointing. Should be at #1 plug wire.

I don't know your mechanical ability, but many times in a situation like this, I have found that what you did was fix the original problem but in the process created another. Please double check everything and assume nothing. I have done this myself and found that walking away and coming back the next day with a fresh mind helped dramatically. Good luck.
 
   / mf35 won't start #3  
With all that was done, I did not see replace fuel filter?
Jim
:)
 
   / mf35 won't start #4  
If an engine is getting gas, and has a strong spark, and the spark is happening at the right time, and the valves are operating at the right time, it will run. The fact that it won't start on ether is interesting. It may indicate that the engine is already getting too much fuel ( i.e. flooding) to run. I've had that problem. Make sure the spark plugs aren't wet , which would indicate too much fuel or not a strong spark. Replace the ignition condenser, which can cause odd problems. It's possible your cam timing is off, which would throw off the ignition timing as well. A bad timing chain will do that, although your engine uses gears and not a chain, but there are still possible failure points in the valve train. Be certain your distributor rotor is actually turning, and the points are opening and closing. With the spark plugs removed, you might still try using a timing light to check the spark timing on number one cylinder ( closest to the radiator) while cranking the engine. You could lose compression in one cylinder due to a valve hanging up, but the engine would still run . You can remove the carburetor entirely, and try to start the engine on ether, which would eliminate flooding from the carburetor. While you're cranking the engine, and spraying ether into the intake, you could use your third hand to rotate the distributor back and forth to see if for some reason the timing was way off. Make sure the plug wires are back in the right places, and refer to the firing order ( 1-3-4-2) to confirm that.
As stated in the post above, you may have solved one problem while creating another. ( Much of my personal success, such as it is, is probably due to "compensating errors" ). Good luck !
 
   / mf35 won't start
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Ok compression good. #1 top dead on dist. took carb back off and sprayed either into intake, nope. I am totally lost on this one. I have had this tractor completely in half (new clutch) but can't figure this out. may have to take to shop. Thanks for your help If you think of anything let me know
 
   / mf35 won't start #6  
Compression is okay, wouldn't even fart with ether, I'm thinking spark. For checking spark, I like one of those in line tools that goes on the plug wire between the wire and spark plug. You can actually watch the spark. I have diagnosed many spark problems with these. They only cost a couple bucks in an auto store. Install this on all your plug wires, one at a time, and crank the engine. Make sure you have steady consistent spark. If spark is good, I don't know what to tell you. I have a MF-85 and I can tell you that MF doesn't always stand for Massey Ferguson.
 
   / mf35 won't start #7  
Do you think it was running hot? Reason is I have actually fried spark plugs before because the heat range was too high and running it hard the plugs just failed... Have you checked for blue spark (not orange) at the plugs, rather than just pulling coil wire to hear the snap? Reason I ask is because if your plugs have gotten glazed they won't work.. Maybe a fresh set would be in order. Also when you did your tune up did you change the condensor? I have seen the condensor cause trouble in the past... Probably not your problem in this case...just a thought. Do you have another coil to try ? It could also be a broken wire in the circuit that is hidden within the insulation of the wire , time for the Ohm meter... Points are opening and closing I'm sure and you haven't crossed the plug wires... Good gas , trickle some in the carb while cranking if possible... Should at least pop .... You said compression was good ,to all cylinders? even if it was weak it should still run, unless you have broken teeth on the distrib or something... Note: If valves are too tight it won't run, but it will run if they are a little loose... Was compression before valve adjustment or was it checked after?
Last thought try advancing distrib a hair or two ,possibly it has backed-off slightly over time during use.:confused:

Please don't take offense at any of my **** questions just trying to help..:)
 
   / mf35 won't start #8  
ok go back to the basics. suck..intake side of things,oil bath clean/not blocked ,carb ok.squeeze,good compression valves adjusted/timed ok.bang,plugs/points,ingnition timing right.blow, exhaust not blocked...so. Suck ,Squeeze ,Bang ,Blow. the basics of the internal combustion engine, take any 1 away and it wont go..
 
   / mf35 won't start
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Hey guys finally got it running read all the advise and figured it out thanks for all the help. it was all spark plugs put a new set of champion d16 and did nothing went with d 21 and started right up. Don't know why but runs like a top. of course everything is new now but I知 sure it needed it. any ideas why this plug would make a difference ?
 
   / mf35 won't start #10  
Glad to hear you got it running. I thought it was on the ignition side. One rule I've always been taught with spark plugs, and I'm sure some here will agree, others will call me stupid. Sparkplug rule, remember your ABC. Anything But Champions.

Did it have the d-16's originally, or the 21's. Looking at your original post, you probably had something else go bad, fixed the original problem, and caused another, which is usually the case in a situation like this. Don't feel bad, we all have gone thru this, that's how we all learn.
 
   / mf35 won't start #11  
This is a bit off topic, but does concern a big mistake I made choosing spark plugs for an outboard motor. My mistake was relying on the parts counter man to read his cross reference spark plug chart correctly. He gave me some spark plugs that were way too hot a heat range for my motor, and they nearly burned a hole in my pistons. The plugs came out of my engine covered with aluminum . The motor would run fine for a couple of minutes, and then die, over and over again. That's not a symptom that comes to mind if the spark plugs are too hot, but that's what did happen. I should have realized that the extended insulator tip on the plugs wasn't correct , but I wasn't thinking clearly. Since then, I stick with the brand and heat range plug that's been working well in my engines, and make no unnecessary changes.
 
   / mf35 won't start #12  
speaking of Champion plugs, I have heard of John Deere 2 cyl collectors who keep a set of champions for show since they were oe but put autolites in them so they'll run. we've always had good luck with autolite plugs in tractors.
 
   / mf35 won't start #13  
OK, I've got to tell my tractor story. Grew up on a dairy farm, several tractors, both gas and diesel, including my little pedal tractor that had its own "spark plug" wires, really just pieces of rubber that plugged into holes on the sheet metal to simulate plug wires and plugs.

My Dad's Ford wouldn't start one day. He apparently spent the better part of two days trying to trouble shoot it, including having a Ford mechanic come out to the farm. They tried everything. Finally the mechanic mentioned that it almost seemed as though someone had switched the plug wires around. At that point my Dad came into the house and asked me if I'd been working on Daddy's tractor. I have no memory of this, but I apparently said "I fitsed it" or something like that. He didn't have the heart to punish me, but paid the mechanic for his time, including the 5 minutes it took him to connect the spark plug wires on the Ford to the proper spark plugs.

My Dad's 86 now, and still tells that story.
 
   / mf35 won't start #14  
lambs said:
OK, I've got to tell my tractor story. Grew up on a dairy farm, several tractors, both gas and diesel, including my little pedal tractor that had its own "spark plug" wires, really just pieces of rubber that plugged into holes on the sheet metal to simulate plug wires and plugs.

My Dad's Ford wouldn't start one day. He apparently spent the better part of two days trying to trouble shoot it, including having a Ford mechanic come out to the farm. They tried everything. Finally the mechanic mentioned that it almost seemed as though someone had switched the plug wires around. At that point my Dad came into the house and asked me if I'd been working on Daddy's tractor. I have no memory of this, but I apparently said "I fitsed it" or something like that. He didn't have the heart to punish me, but paid the mechanic for his time, including the 5 minutes it took him to connect the spark plug wires on the Ford to the proper spark plugs.

My Dad's 86 now, and still tells that story.


OOOOPPPPPPSSSSS :D :D
 
   / mf35 won't start #15  
lambs said:
OK, I've got to tell my tractor story. Grew up on a dairy farm, several tractors, both gas and diesel, including my little pedal tractor that had its own "spark plug" wires, really just pieces of rubber that plugged into holes on the sheet metal to simulate plug wires and plugs.

My Dad's Ford wouldn't start one day. He apparently spent the better part of two days trying to trouble shoot it, including having a Ford mechanic come out to the farm. They tried everything. Finally the mechanic mentioned that it almost seemed as though someone had switched the plug wires around. At that point my Dad came into the house and asked me if I'd been working on Daddy's tractor. I have no memory of this, but I apparently said "I fitsed it" or something like that. He didn't have the heart to punish me, but paid the mechanic for his time, including the 5 minutes it took him to connect the spark plug wires on the Ford to the proper spark plugs.

My Dad's 86 now, and still tells that story.


Uh...? Any chance you've been working on JohnMF35's tractor? ;)
 
   / mf35 won't start #16  
Interesting thread. I don't know enough about engines to undersand what the spark plugs were doing, or not doing?

I've also never heard that Champion plugs were not very good. I can't even remember what I bought the last time I replace my plugs, and that was less then a year ago.

I was really thinking it was the condensor or the wrong mount of fuel coming out from the rebuild. Nice to hear the solution and all the great suggestions on trouble shooting it.

Eddie
 
   / mf35 won't start #17  
WilliamTO-35 said:
This is a bit off topic, but does concern a big mistake I made choosing spark plugs for an outboard motor. My mistake was relying on the parts counter man to read his cross reference spark plug chart correctly. He gave me some spark plugs that were way too hot a heat range for my motor, and they nearly burned a hole in my pistons. The plugs came out of my engine covered with aluminum . The motor would run fine for a couple of minutes, and then die, over and over again. That's not a symptom that comes to mind if the spark plugs are too hot, but that's what did happen. I should have realized that the extended insulator tip on the plugs wasn't correct , but I wasn't thinking clearly. Since then, I stick with the brand and heat range plug that's been working well in my engines, and make no unnecessary changes.

my little TO35 just stopped in the field one day while I was disking.

Problem: no fire to plugs and i keep my little fergy in good operating condition, so I new it had good plugs tuneup etc:

Problem: a film built up on point contacts. took a little strip of fine sandpaper and pulled it between point contacts a few times and she fired right up.

They are good little tractors but they like to be well maintained.
 

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