Mid-Mower destruction of the 3rd kind

[JimR]

Yesterday I put a new set of hardened blades on my Woods 6' MMM. I figured that I should at least try it out to see how it works. I can honestly say that it does mow 6-8" grass with no hesitation. The only problem was that I was cutting a new area. My farmer friend use to brush hog this for me each year. I hit a stump and broke the end off PTO shaft. The rear brackets broke and I ran up on the deck busting the left rear idler wheel bracket into 3 parts. New sliding yoke $60.00, new idler wheel bracket $80.00, rear hanger brackets, I'll have to make them. Here is a shot of the mess. I'll be welding the idler wheel bracket also. New PTO yoke is on order as of today.

 

[OkieG]

Wow! What a mess. The ol' "hidden object in unfamiliar territory" story. I cringe a little every time I work on land that's new to me, especially with fast spinning blades.

OkieG

 

[Junkman]

Take the driveshaft over to Brookline Machine and have them weld on a new yoke end. It will cost about half of the cost of a new sliding yoke. I have found them to be experts when it comes to driveline problems. They repair them to be better than new.

 

[JimR]

Here are the modified (welded up) parts.
Junkman, thanks for the info on Brookline. Maybe in the future I will need their services. I could have gotten a new yoke today to replce mine. It was of the butt-weld type. I don't have a lathe to center it. So I went with a new one instead. Had it been like the original which fits into the shaft, I would have bought it. Here is how I welded the old yoke should anyone want to know. First I ground down the break on both ends to the center of the break. I put a new u-joint in the shaft and broken off piece. I then clamped the whole joint in a vise with the shaft aimed upward to make sure it was tight. (I know what you are thinking. The joint is full of grease and has rubber parts. It will burn when I weld it up.) I then tack welded both ends of the break in the vise. Then I submerged the PTO end and u-joint in a bucket of water and finished welding up the crack on both sides. This will do till the new shaft arrives and will be my spare afterwards. Thank God for welders.

 

[garbageman]

I keep the FEL low to the ground and cross my fingers /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[SteveH_CT]

Uggghhhhh - I can just imagine the words flying out of your mouth as this was happening... the racket must have scared the bejezzus out of you.

 

[JimR]

I were shooters ear muffs and it wasn't that loud. The thump hitting the stump kinda buried all the other noise. I did rip the stump from the ground with the deck. At least the damage was not too severe as to cost me a mid pto or other items that are more expensive. I figure that I got away very cheaply this time. Those hardened blades do work nicely also.

 

[SteveH_CT]

Good to hear it wasn't as dramatic as I thought it would be. I thought the same thing - you got away cheap.

 

[SPIKER]

I did same with RMF last spring, and the deck pulled the stump out by the roots, the mower then kicked up and over and landed on the stump.. no broken blades but it broke the belt... I also ran over the front wheel on the maden voyage of the RMF... now THAT made one heck of a racket!!! never got any photos of the destruction of that one, took out all 3 blades, and made the air pressurized wheel into little parts, the 1" dia shafting material has a large chunk out of it still works though. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Mark M

 

[have_blue]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Those hardened blades do work nicely also. )</font>

I want to know more about those hardened blades! Wonder if thay're available for a 72" brush hog? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif