Might Need To Hot-wire My Kubota

[BlackSmokeLust]

Hello,

This is my first Kubota and after 2 weeks of sitting it will not start.
At first when I turned the key to 'ON' I could see the battery light and hear the fuel pump, then on 'PREHEAT' could see the glow plug light but no start, not even a click or pop. After a few turns of the key the lights would get dimmer and dimmer.
Next day battery was replaced.
With new battery installed I had hoped to have it running. Turned key to 'ON' battery light was bright, seen glow plug light for first time in awhile, tried to turn it over and nothing. Now the glow plug light won't come on and battery light is dim for first few turns then won't come on at all. IC Regulator?

Last week I installed a new switch but still nothing. I noticed I am getting .98 volts to the starter BW wire and nothing to the W wire (safety switches bypassed for troubleshooting). I am hoping it's the Stop Solenoid but because the battery light disappears after a few turns I am thinking it's something else as my power to the glow plugs is also less then 1 volt as well. I am getting 12+ volts to my slow blow fuse. All others that I could find I replaced just in case. This model does not have the Timer Relay.

I need to get this into my garage and now that I have an extra ignition switch thinking of creating an isolated start/run circuit just to get it to move. Has anyone done this?


_________________________________
2003 Kubota BX2200 w loader 1k hours.

 

[Grandad4]

Just to clarify what you're saying... when you put in new battery, the starter did crank the engine briefly, but the engine never did start, and the battery drained down very quickly, right? How much cranking was it? 30 seconds? 2 minutes? 10 minutes? ??? If a fully charged battery is drained in less than, say, 2 minutes, the cables would be really hot, as well as the starter. Did that happen? Any possibility the new battery wasn't fully charged? Have you tried jump starting it? Was it running OK 2 weeks ago? How long have you had it? It has fuel, right? Are fuel filters (both) OK?

Maybe someone who knows more than me will have some more ideas, but I'm trying to figure out if you have a short that is drawing down the battery, whether it wasn't fully charged, you have a bad connection that is blocking current, you have a dead short somewhere, some component is not working right, or maybe it's something non-electrical.

 

[Dogballs]

Put it in neutral...

 

[BlackSmokeLust]

When I put the new battery in it made no difference other than my glow plug light came on for a few turns from the key 'PREHEAT', no starter crank at all. I have full 12+ to the starter and can get the starter to turn if I jump it. Today when I was troubleshooting the best I could get was a dim battery light from the dash even with a charged battery.

 

[BlackSmokeLust]

Put it in neutral...

I may be missing one but I have my PTO and Neutral switch bypassed, no seat switch on this model.

 

[Willl]

full 12+

Reset your meter to include tenths please. 12 point what ?

Was this reading taken from a good ground like starter mount bolt and main heavy starter lead in ?, if not, where ?

 

[BlackSmokeLust]

Reset your meter to include tenths please. 12 point what ?

Was this reading taken from a good ground like starter mount bolt and main heavy starter lead in ?, if not , where ?

Before I packed up for the night it was at 12.89. I did have the ground attached to the negative terminal of the battery.
I don't remember what the exact reading at the slow blow fuse was but it was close to the 12.89.

 

[Willl]

12.8 good, I'll assume that was during 'non' crank.

Best to start at 'starter + heavy term' and work back from there if voltage loss during crank.

 

[Willl]

The reason I'm leaning towards a high amp voltage loss was your .98 voltage reading.

Even a bad battery reads better than that.

 

[Leejohn]

Take your ground wire off at both ends and clean. See if that helps.