Milling a fallen oak tree

[Richard]

Ok, so it's not yet on the ground.

Near me is an Oak tree...I think it's red (in case that matters). It probably has 30/40 feet of arrow straight trunk and is (guessing) between 20/24 inches diameter almost from the ground up 30/40 feet. It has a really nice looking main section.

Anyway, it's slowly uprooting and will be falling over. I hate to see it rot away... will at worst, section it so my wife's cousin can make firewood from it (I don't have wood burner so firewood is of no use to me)

However... that straight trunk looks interesting...

I was daydreaming about it and thought an Alaskan Saw mill could rip up some slabs. Not sure for what purpose though...

Mantle? Table top? (maybe a bar instead of dining room)

If I end up doing something like that, this is not dried wood. Would it be ok to rip it into "slabs" and let those dry a bit or should the logs dry or just cut it and let whatever happens, happen.... and "sell" it as 'rustic'?

With a log of those approximate dimensions (say, 30' x 22" clean with no knots) what are some opportunities for it? Oak beam??

I've got the means to lug it around with the backhoe so I can section it and carry it to my driveway (or the field) and have at it.

Side note, the wife never met a piece of wood that she didn't want to paint so a nice piece of clear oak has no value in my house (for me it would but she'll find some way to paint over it)

I'd be looking to see if I could do something to it for someone else.

(or, it might just end up as firewood!)

Thoughts?

 

[RNeumann]

Buy the "saw mill", have fun and post the progress!

 

[Egon]

Beam machine is inexpensive and will do nicely for one log.

Cut the log up into boards as soon as possible. Stack & sticker the boards and seal the ends. Keep rain off of the boards.

 

[newbury]

Warning -
Alaskan saw mills can be DANGEROUS!!

I had a nice simple Stihl 021 that I used for very small tree trimming etc. Then I won a JS62 at arborist site

and bought an Alaskan Mark III and a 28" bar.

This led to my first Stihl MS660 and stacks of lumber.

Which lead to making more stacks of lumber with a sawmill

and an even bigger saw

I tell you, milling trees can be addictive!

 

[4570Man]

I'd be inclined to haul it to the mill and trade it for a check. But until it's on the ground you won't know what you have.

 

[stuckmotor]

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=57944.0

 

[newbury]

Ok, so it's not yet on the ground.

Near me is an Oak tree...I think it's red (in case that matters). It probably has 30/40 feet of arrow straight trunk and is (guessing) between 20/24 inches diameter almost from the ground up 30/40 feet. It has a really nice looking main section.

Anyway, it's slowly uprooting and will be falling over. I hate to see it rot away... will at worst, section it so my wife's cousin can make firewood from it (I don't have wood burner so firewood is of no use to me)

However... that straight trunk looks interesting...

I was daydreaming about it and thought an Alaskan Saw mill could rip up some slabs. Not sure for what purpose though...

Mantle? Table top? (maybe a bar instead of dining room)

If I end up doing something like that, this is not dried wood. Would it be ok to rip it into "slabs" and let those dry a bit or should the logs dry or just cut it and let whatever happens, happen.... and "sell" it as 'rustic'?

With a log of those approximate dimensions (say, 30' x 22" clean with no knots) what are some opportunities for it? Oak beam??

I've got the means to lug it around with the backhoe so I can section it and carry it to my driveway (or the field) and have at it.<snip>

that straight trunk looks interesting...

DANGER DANGER

http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=57944.0

and from stuckmotors thread:

I have a the mini-mill too, I like it even better than the MK III. Although i didn't cut a lot of logs with either before i decided to just break down and buy a bandsaw mill.

The beam machine will do well for 1 log maybe AFTER YOU ARE EXPERIENCED WITH IT, heck there are numerous videos of people cutting halfway decent lumber freehand. But it takes a learning curve.
A Mark III, or the new version Mark IV, will probably work right off and allow you to make 1" to 4" slabs.

However when I tackle projects I always get back to cost.

A mini-mill costs about $125, for 20" plus wood you'll need a 60 CC saw to do it slow.
A 24" Alaskan Mark IV costs about $250 20" plus wood you'll need a 60 CC saw with a 26" bar to do it slow. I did with a 62CC saw and a 28" bar.
You get into larger wood, you need more saw power, my Stihl 660's pull a 42" bar through 30+ inches of hardwood with ease.
A Harbor Freight bandsaw mill can often be bought new for $1800. No other saw needed. There is a wide variety of "name brand" sawmills that now start at about $4,000.

So you pays your money, you takes your choice.

If you only have 1 tree and do not envision more you might try putting an ad in CL offering the log for some of the wood. MOST sawmills don't like yard trees because embedded metal costs $$$. It's not quite so bad with CSM.

If you've got a couple of trees and a 60 CC saw a mini-mill might be the way to go.

More trees, step up to a Mark IV and more saw.

Lot's more trees more saw, a Mark IV and a sawmill.

I've now got about 400 acres of trees and for the trees to big for my Woodmizer I plan on making cants using my Mark III's and 660's or 088.
/edit 99.9% of them will be clear cut, I didn't mean to imply I was going to cut all of them myself!

And

With a log of those approximate dimensions (say, 30' x 22" clean with no knots) what are some opportunities for it?

The opportunities are endless. Good solid wood I'd go with longest thickest you could see a need for. For me I'm needing 17' x 2" x 6" for a trailer deck and I've got the tree picked out.

 

[Stimw]

Here is my HF mill. I saw them on sale recently for $1700. that is plus shipping.
I would give it an 8.5 out of 10 rating and my only complain is the track that comes with it will only cut an 8' + board.
I made an extension so I can cut 16'.
Learning curve isn't bad and you can find all info you need on Forestry Forum.

 

[Richard]

Thanks for the input...

I have a Stihl 044, 20" bar however, I'm game to buy a longer one (and realize I'd probably have to)

Would that be enough oomph?

 

[dstig1]

Far be it for me to NOT spend a fellow TBNers money, but... If you are talking one tree, find a local guy with a band mill. Then help him out doing it and learn a bit. Less chance of screwing up the one and only log you have, you learn some, and you can decide after that if it is something you want to get into. You can usually find contacts via CL, the local chainsaw shops, or even the band mill manufacturers (they keep lists of guys around the country who will do it, typically on the side).

 

[TomSeller]

The trunk could be compromised, I'd wait until it is on the ground and I've cut through it

 

[dragoneggs]

Far be it for me to NOT spend a fellow TBNers money, but... If you are talking one tree, find a local guy with a band mill. Then help him out doing it and learn a bit. Less chance of screwing up the one and only log you have, you learn some, and you can decide after that if it is something you want to get into. You can usually find contacts via CL, the local chainsaw shops, or even the band mill manufacturers (they keep lists of guys around the country who will do it, typically on the side).

Agree 100%. The learning experience would be invaluable if you do decide to 'invest' in a mill for your next lumber.

 

[fishheadbob]

You might have 400 board feet of lumber; it's hard to be accurate as the dimensions you give are not very exact. Most sawyers don't want to hear about yard trees if this tree is in or near a yard as they tend to pick up nails, screws or other hardware which turns into shrapnel or wrecks blades. Anyway and fwiw the shop down the road has a nice bandsaw mill and will saw up logs on nearby spots for $.30 per board foot. 400 x .30 = $120. I think he's a little pricey, but he sure is convenient.
You need to find your version of my guy. They are out there and just require a little looking.

 

[mcfarmall]

For one-off job like this, hire a local guy with a portable band mill, pay him and send him on his way. When the log is on the ground, buck it into 8' sections and then paint the ends with AnchorSeal if available or an old latex paint you have laying around the house...AnchorSeal one coat and junk paint 2 or 3. This will greatly reduce or eliminate end checking on the log. Put a chunk of limb wood under each end to get the log off the ground while you wait for a time slot with the sawyer. Have the sawyer cut up some of the sapwood slabs into stickers. Stack the milled lumber indoors with the stickers 12-16" apart and weight the stack down good then let it air dry for a couple of years.

 

[Egon]

For quick, fast, onsite and cheap look up "beam Machine". You could also make one of these quite easily. Mine, purchased, was thirty dollars.
Use your present chainsaw, make sure the chain is always sharp. ( you can buy a ripping chain) Cut slowly and do not overheat you saw.

With the beam machine it is quite easy to make larger square sided beams that are easily transported to another site for future milling. You can also manage your cuts to maximize the quarter sawn lumber you will get.





[video]https://www.google.ca/search?q=beam+machine&client=safari&hl=en-ca&prmd=visn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjioeP5wd7WAhUB04MKHcQMBmcQ_AUIEigC&biw=1024&bih=681#imgrc=SWXOAMT5FyFVvM:[/video]

 

[woodlandfarms]

I spin a 32" chain on my 044 for milling. Be advised that a milling chain is different than a regular chainsaw chain... Let me rephrase, you know how on yoru chain you have a 32 degree angle on the cutting head of the chain? A ripping saw will have no kerf, it will be a 0 or 90 degree angle (straight across). Guys buy chains and just grind them as the cost of a ripping chain is a bit pricey.

 

[JPRambo]

I had a guy with a portable band saw mill cut a couple trees for me in North Georgia. He had a $250 minimum. 25 - 30 cents a board foot. And a charge for hitting a metal object in the wood.
LumberRite of North Georgia fees and charges for mobile sawmilling services. - LumberRite

 

[ericm979]

I bought some milling chain from Baileys, their house brand. Cost was just a little more than their regular chain. It's ground at 5 or 10 degrees, I forget which. I used it to rip large round of Eucalyptus into manageable pieces. It worked much better than normal cross cut chain. I could have used a larger saw than my Stihl 362 though.