Mitsubishi 1300 D drive shaft leak

[JD wanna be]

Mitsubishi / sutoh/ beaver/ D1300FD
leaking at the drive shaft seal on the gear body. (drips about a quart over night).
?1 how to properly remove the shaft, I removed the 4 bolts on the back, & the 4 bolts on the front u-joint connector. Looks like a raised ring inside and a nut that is even higher, so to remove shaft - ...
?2 where to get the oil seal replacement, once I do get it off.


thank you (in advance) for any replies.


13 hp 2 cyl diesel 4wd pto- '0'

 

[JD wanna be]

first how to remove shaft, since it has no spline/play, ?loosen axle?

second where to get replacement seal.

seems that there should be a list Somewhere that cross-references useable parts

any ideas?
thanks,

 

[oliver28472]

Call one of these guys:

Valley Power
Japanese Tractor Repair Dixon, IL

 

[Kernopelli]

Oliver's links to those parts suppliers are guys that will almost certainly be able to supply you with the seal. I am a die hard believer that every tractor owner MUST own a service manual. That is my first recommendation. Free online OEM operators manual are available for the Beavers...here is a link to one. Won't help you "fix" many things but always nice to have. http://home.comcast.net/~tdepooter/S-370 Beaver.pdf

 

[JD wanna be]

called Valley, seems ya just gotta force it off (the drive shaft)

I have photo copied manual for 1300, but it doesn't show much about repairs. the photos are non-useable.

thanks for the answers ; :thumbsup:

here is another question, Valley said just go to an auto parts for the radiator cap, the only thing they have is 18psi, the Beaver manual & Valley says; 7 to 10 psi.
question is; will the 18psi cap cause a problem? should I continue to hunt a 10psi cap?

since I am replacing the fan belt, hoses, and drive seal, I have it apart, so de-rusting and painting it.

 

[oliver28472]

I would see if the auto parts place can order one, or go to a radiator shop. Too much pressure could blow a soldered joint in the radiator. I don't know if my differentials are like yours but I had a small leak at one time. There was a machined race that had to be replaced and I don't remember exactly how we did it. The race was around $100. I think it was on the pinion shaft. Tolerances are important when reassembling.

 

[JD wanna be]

I found a 7 psi at Orielys
ordered the seal and such from Valley, still waiting for them.

am making a list of useable parts as I go, stuff from auto and other sources. will post that when I get all the parts on.

 

[JD wanna be]

the two issues I am having Real Problems with are the 'how to properly remove the shaft' and how to un-lodge the piston that seems to be jammed with debris or rust. soaked it with penitent 3 days. any ideas on this one? can't get to it to pound on it much, and it is all the way 'up' so can't remove the shaft either.

thanks for the replies, they have been helpful.

 

[Cpjlube]

If you are talking about removing the front drive shaft on a Beaver, I just accomplished this about 6 months ago. We removed lower housing below the trans. With the shaft still attached. Just unbolted from the front diff.



Then applied LOTS of heat. It's splined, no magic. Just really tight. If you need any insight, just ask.

Chuck

 

[Kernopelli]

On the few larger model Mitsubishis I've had apart, the piston rod is a separate piece from the piston and just "sits" against the back of the piston and attaches to the rockshaft crankarm with a pin ( looks like you've taken that end loose). Have you tapped on the rod to see if it will come loose/out and give you more room?

You can also try removing the lift arms from the rockshaft and slide the rockshaft out. The rub is, there is probably a set screw on back of the crank arm ( assembly that rotates with the rockshaft that the piston rod attaches to) that will have to be removed. If you can't get to it, the rockshaft won't slide out. If you can get the rockshaft and crank arm out, it might give you more room to "tap" on the piston to break it loose? The rockshaft probably has a "dimple" on the ends that corresponds to a mark on the lift arms so you know how to orient them on the splines when they go back on. If not, be sure to scribe the arms and shaft to locate them properly later.