Mitsubishi 1300 D drive shaft leak

   / Mitsubishi 1300 D drive shaft leak
  • Thread Starter
#11  
thanks,
yes, beaver and D1300 are supposed to be the "same".

i removed the bolts from the rear shaft/housing and also the bolts from the U-joint, it seems that there is a lip under the connector at the U joint that requires a lot of force to push it off. I was concerned about damaging something at the rear while removing the u-joint at the front.

also; where did you apply the heat,

thanks again,
karl
 
   / Mitsubishi 1300 D drive shaft leak
  • Thread Starter
#12  
on the lift arms, I have the rod loose but there is no room to remove it. if it weren't already at the top ... but it has about 1/8 inch play, I tried to move the piston up- from the other end, block of wood and big hammer = no move.

Heat? I believe there is a bit or bits of debris between cylinder and wall, but it is amazing that the piston won't move at all. I have a wedge in above the shaft, just to keep pressure on.

thanks again,
karl
 
   / Mitsubishi 1300 D drive shaft leak
  • Thread Starter
#13  
update: I soaked the piston for several days in various penetrating oils, then put this automotive parts soak in the cylinder overnight, -- do not get it on your skin-- got it loose enough to pound out.
used a cylinder resurfacing stone to clean that out, sand paper on the piston.

now just need to find a replacement o-ring seal to put it all back together.
 
   / Mitsubishi 1300 D drive shaft leak
  • Thread Starter
#14  
found these parts: for the hydraulic piston and the end cap are the same size; FIMCO brand, pressure washer parts, pack of 2 gaskets, # 7771582
 
   / Mitsubishi 1300 D drive shaft leak
  • Thread Starter
#15  
:confused2: the drive shaft is a real treat; 1. the shaft will NOT come out with out damage Unless you tilt the front axel up to the max on one side, this give the little extra distance that lets the shaft fall out. 2. the splines were rusted/ ceased and took heat and a big hammer to separate. 3. yes the transfer case Must be removed to access the seal.

all that for a $5 part. If you do this, be certain to also flush very vigorously the bearings and housings, an amazing amount of sludge and grime is in there.
B.T.W. remember the other gaskets: the seal, the seal bracket gasket, the transfer case gasket, the shaft cover two gaskets, .... and where most of the moisture comes from? past the shifter, right into the transmission = referb the shift boot.

I also rebuilt the hydraulic fluid screen, from a 6x4 210 mesh stainless steel screen.
 

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