Mitsubishi D1600 Not Starting

[CJ7Diesel]

I have a D1600 that has been sitting for over a year. I bought a new battery for it, sprayed some starter fluid in the intake and it fired right up... Ran for less than a minute and died. Now it turns over but will not start, I have tried bleeding/priming the fuel lines but it seems to not be getting fuel to the injectors. I am needing some ideas on what to check. No prime or bad fuel pump??

Thanks for any input

 

[oliver28472]

Don't use any more starting fluid, period. I will attach a picture from the Valley Power website that shows what can happen. The piston tops are thin and not built for ether. Are you using the glow plugs? When you prime do you start at the fuel tank and work towards the pump?

Satoh Parts

 

[CJ7Diesel]

Thanks for info on the ether. I was starting at the tank

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

One thing to know about ether or any other volatile fluid you put in the intake of a diesel is that it can, and probably will, begin to ignite much earlier in the compression stroke than one would like it to. This early ignition can cause a problem since the piston will try to continue to compress the mixture as it burns resulting in possible damage to the engine as stated in oliver's post depending on the amount of ether applied. That being said, I've seen ether used successfully time and time again with no issues but I'd personally stay away from it. The fact is you should be able to start a diesel in cold temperatures (but above the gel-point of the fuel) with the factory provisions for starting aids (glow plugs, block heaters, intake heaters, and even factory installed ether systems that guard against over-dosing). If you find your only option is using ether then the components should be fixed that are leading to that situation in the first place, or you'll need to be ready to accept the possible consequences of using it.

 

[Kernopelli]

I suspect you still have air in the fuel system. It can sometimes be a bear to finally get things flowing. I suggest Making certain you have consistent flow at each juncture from tank to pump then cracking each line at the injector and cranking until you see good consistent flow then move to other. Here is a good outline on bleeding Yanmar Tractor Fuel Bleeding Procedure

 

[PILOON]

I generally simply crack a fuel line fitting just B4 the injector pump 'til it leaks fuel.(gravity flow)
I then usually slacken one nut at the easiest to reach injector til some fuel squirts out then tighten it.(using starter)
It will start on one cylinder and kinda chug chug 'til air is cleared from the remaining lines.
Once the pump gets primed it is capable of pushing air out of the lines but that one line cracking speeds things up and saves starter time.

 

[Jeremy_R]

Speaking from past experience when I knock off my fuel bowl, I quickly shut down the tractor and went to the parts store to get an inline filter after an hour of scratching my head and cussing, I found out i forgot to open the throttle up. Morale the story is don't over look the really simple things.

Jeremy

 

[CJ7Diesel]

Thanks for all of the input and advice. I will not be home for a few days but as soon as I get back home I will give it a go and let you know how it turns out.

 

[CJ7Diesel]

Here is the latest. The fuel pump does not appear to be pumping fuel. I took the lines off of it. I turned the key with the throttle open. One fuel line was getting a very small amount of fuel coming out. The other line had nothing coming out. One of the replies was saying something about the fuel free flowing all the way to the injector pumps? My fuel does not free flow past the fuel pump. This is where I am at.

 

[CJ7Diesel]

I am making progress. I have one port from the pump working and i am getting fuel flow to the injector. It is trying to start, more than it did before. I am assuming it still will not because it has fuel going to only one injector. Im trying now to see if I can get the other port to start pumping. I need different help now. I took the metal lines off that go from the pump to the injectors. They are preformed lines so I figured they would just match back up properly. Now I can't seem to figure out which port goes to which injector. I am sure it matters. No matter how I put the lines on they just don't seem to be lining up like they should. Something is off. Any body have a picture of their fuel lines or any ideas? Thanks

 

[284 International]

What did you do to make that side of the pump operate? Sometimes a gentle tapping with a hammer or mallet can loosen up a frozen plunger. Are you absolutely certain there is no air in the system to the injection pump?

Until you have flow coming from both lines, don't worry about where they go just yet. I don't know about the Mitsubishi engines, but Yanmar numbers their cylinders beginning at the bellhousing, so the number one cylinder is nearest the clutch, and cylinders two through whatever are closer to the front of the engine. I don't know if Mitsubishi numbers their machines similarly. You should be able to figure out which cylinder fires first just by slowly turning the motor with the valve cover off and synchronizing the fuel pulses from the pump to the valves closing.

My manuals for my Mitsubishi tractors do not have a list of which cylinder is number one, but the firing order is 1-2 on the two cylinder S370, according to my service manual.

 

[CJ7Diesel]

I did use the hammer tapping and the side that I tapped is the side that started working right after I tapped it. So I'm sure the tapping unstuck it. I have tapped the other side numerous times with no success. As far as air in the line. I opened the bleeder until fuel flowed freely. I'm not sure what else to do to check for air. As far as the cylinder number, I have the 2 cylinder engine. I don't know anything about this tractor and I don't have any manuals. I got it free from my dad and I am trying to make it work. I have made progress which is promising. I'm sure if I can get fuel flowing through that second line I will be good to go.

 

[okielsman]

This will probably sound crazy to some but here goes. I think 2 different times I have run my D1600 out of fuel. Both times I went through the air bleeding procedure to no avail. Finally I used a clean rag and put pressure with my mouth into the fuel tank and held it. What can I say except it worked lol.

 

[Ilikeurtractor]

How long did you crank it after bleeding? Sometimes it takes quite a while to get it from the pump to the cylinders. Maybe it happened to be at the same time you "pressured up" the tank.

 

[Kernopelli]

If pressurizing the tank works, then that's great. I remember having to do the same thing one time on my MTE2000D. A simple ( and cleaner) way to do this is put a "blow gun" on your compressor hose and stick the nozzle in the filler hole ( don't need much pressure). Stick a rag around the void and give it a second to force the fuel through the system.

At my house, we used to be notorious for "stealing" fuel from one machine to use in another. This same method works great with a syphon hose......stick the blow gun nozzle, syphon hose and a rag in the tank and give it a little pressure. The syphon will quickly prime and start flowing......no more "sucking" on a syphon hose and trying to "time" the fuel as it primes the hose. About a 50/50 chance you get fuel in your mouth using the "suck the hose" method.