Mixed tire types

IH3444 · Dec 19, 2005

What are the rear tire size Bruce? They look very wide for ags. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

slowzuki · Dec 19, 2005

Looks like an R-4 rear as well from a backhoe, they offer that pattern with the wide tire and shallower lug than an Ag R-1.

BruceNorthEast · Dec 19, 2005

Thanks to all of you for responding so quickly.

Here's what I just got from the dealer:

 "As far as the tires go, the wheel sizes are correct (17.5-24 & 10.5-16) and match up properly. The rears are an R1 Michelin and the fronts are an R4 Titan. The customer that traded the tractor needed a more aggressive tread than R4 for some of his work but he wanted the higher flotation tire on the front because there were areas he needed to get the front of the tractor into that compaction was an issue. There should not be any issue to the tractor because of tread differences because the wheel and tire sizes are correct and match up properly." 

What do you guys think, am I asking for trouble here? I'd like to go ahead on this, I'm reasonably happy with most everything else, and I've been told by several that the dealer & salesman are reputable. But there's no warranty...
Bruce.

keeney · Dec 19, 2005

I put Titan Tru-Powers, a wider ag-style bar tire on the front of my 4100 because the OEM turfs that came with it were worn out AND I was building a house in sticky/slippery clay. I left the OEM Turfs on the rear and put chains over them because replacing the rears was going to be expensive.

I ran in 4WD almost all the time on dirt and now that the yard is finished, the chains are off the turfs, but its still used in 4wd in the winter for plowing snow or for grooming the sand down by the lake.

No signs of any problems with the front drivetrain.

I would expect that matching up the rolling radius is going to be just as difficult with two different size of two different types of treads as it is going to be with two different sizes of the same type of tread. Either way, you need to get it close. Other variables like wear, inflation pressure, and loading / ballasting are always going to cause some mis-match. Generally, the mismatch leads more to tire wear, and it seems like the fronts wear out a lot faster than the rears. I can't imagine that a fully lubricated front drivetrain is going to wear out even with a slight mismatch. Its not like you are running for 100's of thousands of miles at highway speeds.

- Rick

IH3444 · Dec 19, 2005

I definetly understand that logic, and it makes sense to me. What year is the machine, and is there any factory warrenty left on it. Also see if the dealer will be willing to back up the machine with even a dealer warrenty. If he is, get it in writing. Seems that if the dealer has a good reputation, they would go 90 days, or 180 days, 50/50 if any thing went bad with the machine. Most manufactures offer a 3 year drivetrain warrenty, but you should check that out. It's mostly for parts, and not labor. Hence the 50/50 agreement for 180 days, or even a year. I would not even consider the tires an issue, they are the size they need to be, and as long as you are off pavement, in 4WD, the slip and give on any surface, except maybe extreme dry hard pack, you won't hurt the drive train. My old hoe with two wheel drive, on very dry hard packed soil will back up hill, with a full bucket load, with the R4s you saw pictured, and not a gentle slope. At a good price, it would be a no brainer for me. I bought the old hoe 18 years ago, and it was a bit tired them, and have not experienced any major failures. Put the new rear tires on, and did a clutch job. That's about it. I know you have a tough decision, but remember you will get outstanding support from all of us on whatever decision you make Bruce. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

jinman · Dec 19, 2005

Bruce, I'm going to question the tire sizes given to you by the dealer. He said the rears are 17.5-24 and that may be correct, but I think the fronts are 10.5-16.5 rather than 16.0. Also, are the rear R1 tires 8-ply, 6-ply, 4-ply? I think most R1s are only 4-ply, but the Industrial R4s are 8-ply. That's a lot more puncture resistance than the Ag R1s.

Frankly, I wish I had wide Ag tires on my tractor, and I think I'd want the fronts and rears to match, but I don't think this is a very severe on soft soil or turf. In 2WD, scuffing is going to be a non-issue. The aggressive cleats will cause you more damage than industrials for sure.

I'm attaching a tire chart for my tractor. It's a good reference for what the manufacturer offers and may help you in your negotiation.

IH3444 · Dec 19, 2005

Jinman, I read that too, but thought it was just a typo about the 10.5 x 16.5 tires, knowing the TC35/40/45 come with 16.5 rims. I agree with checking the ply rating, and also the weight capacity of each rear wheel tire. I just bought regular Yokohama tires for my father's Isuzu Rodeo. The last set I bought I made sure I got the D rated tires. Not this time at almost $100 each. I opted fot the regular tires, and after checking the load carrying of the regular tires, verse the D rating, I found out I was paying for only 320 pounds more capacity. They already for a 225/75/16 carry 1995 pounds, verse 2315 pounds for the D rated ones. Find out the ply, maybe 6 ply rated. If they are ag, and you only have to worry about the 3 point hitch lifting. The front bucket will not have hardly any effect on the rear tires. I always wondered why NH only used 6 ply tires on the front of the TC35/40/45, and not 8 ply, for additional saftey factor. I was happy to find out the TC48DA has 8 ply up front.

jinman · Dec 19, 2005

( The front bucket will not have hardly any effect on the rear tires. I always wondered why NH only used 6 ply tires on the front of the TC35/40/45, and not 8 ply, for additional saftey factor. I was happy to find out the TC48DA has 8 ply up front.
)

A few months back I ran over a beaver stake with my right front tire. It poked a big 1/2" hole right thru the bottom tread. 8-ply may not have helped, but I'll never know. Now I have a boot inside the tire and a tube. I'm watching for sharp sticks a lot closer too. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

BruceNorthEast · Dec 19, 2005

Guys:
Just a short thanks for your comments, they're very much appreciated.

I took a nasty spill on the ice today, thought I broke my wrist. Not much on typing now (don't know how it is out your way, here on my property it's like a skating rink *everywhere*). It'll give you a break too, as I tend to ramble /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Will post if anything relevant comes up. I'm strongly leaning toward this machine... Getting a good handle on things with this one and previous units has been alot easier thanks to TBN - you guys have been a Godsend! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
Bruce.

thcri · Dec 19, 2005

( On hard pavement why would you have it in 4wd? )

IH3444,

I don't have it in 4 wheel drive but if I forget to take it out or if my supersteer still has it in when I approach concrete you can feel them fight. I don't purposely put in 4 wheel drive. My comment was in reponse to having the right size tires and it's imortance.

murph

murph