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- Feb 22, 2006
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Most of the commercial fencing installation crews I've seen don't even bother pre-mixing/wetting it out...they set the posts with dry mix tamping it in then either soaking it or not even bothering allowing mother nature to finish the job...
Yep. That's the way the pole barns are built and fence posts are set, they just dump ready mix bags dry, right into the ground. The mix pulls moisture out of the soil and it drys like a rock. I've dug out so many posts done this way, and I can attest that it works.
There's 2 ways of looking at having concrete under load bearing posts. If they're pressure treated ground contact 6x6's, 6x4's, I auger my post holes, pour small 12" wide footings about 10-12" thick at the bottom, smooth the tops, let them dry, then stand the treated posts on the footing, then take a post spade and tamp backfill around the posts to slightly above ground level. This is more important if the building supports a larger load. It needs a wide base under it to keep the post from sinking itself into the ground. Concrete around the sides of the post can seperate and allow the post to sink if it's got enough load on it.
If you just put a post on dirt then put concrete around it, it's not a true concrete footing. Think about it-would you dig a trench and put concrete block on the dirt, then pour conrete next to the wall in the trench? Of course not, you first pour a continuous concrete footing, then put the block walls on top.
However, if we're talking untreated fence posts, it's not critical since it's a non-load bearing post.
The other thing to remember is that if it's a treated post and you cut the bottom, it is more succeptable to rotting. The tips should be put in the ground uncut-factory finish. Re-treat them if they are cut and placed undergound.