Mixing/spraying paint

   / Mixing/spraying paint #11  
One additional question. Do you need to put any sort of dryer or something like that on your tank line? Or is paint now pretty much immune to those issues?

If so, what kind of drier are people using. Again, I am keeping this in the vein of tractor painting, not precision auto.

Carl

You can get a water trap to put in the feed line.:)

But I just drain the compressor tank of water before I start.
 
   / Mixing/spraying paint #12  
after a while you will get a feel.

IMHO.. if it sprayed, paused and sprayed, you either have low air pressure.. or too viscous of paint.

OI thin my valspar and dip the stem in and watch it drip off.. and then I used a test piece of metal before I ever lay down color on a tractor.

give it 10ys.. you'll be fine! :)
 
   / Mixing/spraying paint #13  
also.. run an air hose that has not had oil running in it from an auto oiler...
 
   / Mixing/spraying paint
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Thanks - I know my pressure was set at 40psi (as per the guns instructions) so the mix may have been off. I never even thought about water - funny thing is I have one line with 2 air dryers (mainly for the blast cabinet) but hooked to the spare output with no air dryer (that was dumb on my part huh)
10 years huh, wow, I better get busy, I was hoping to paint a Cub by May so I am going to have to kick it in HIGH gear!
Thanks for all the help and information
 
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   / Mixing/spraying paint #15  
water won't cause the start / stop. it will blow a mess out on the paint.

I'd 'guess' you air may be a lil low.. try 50, and or check the thinning..

I have seen 'cheaper' hvlp need about 20% higher pressure than rated for.. just my observations.. and I paint near exclusively with valspar paints.. though have switched over a bit to nason syn enamils and quick dry hardner...
 
   / Mixing/spraying paint
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Will do, thanks!!!
 
   / Mixing/spraying paint #17  
Like soundguy said, it sounds like low pressure or thick paint. When you set your pressure regulator, did you set it while pulling the gun trigger? If not, that is your problem, guranteed.

It has been a couple years since I bought any valspar, but I distinctly remember having to experiment with my thinner ratio because there was none recommended. I think I ended up around 5 or 6 parts paint to 1 part thinner.


How to set up your paint gun:

1. Look for the manufacturers recommended PSI, distance from panel and fluid tip size for material to be sprayed (set accordingly).

2. Set your fan how you want it, (all the way out or very close to it for all overs.

3. Crank the fluid knob all the way in and then back out one turn. Hold the gun perpendicular to some making paper on the wall at the recommended distance (usually 6-8 inches) and snap the trigger. Your pattern will probably be small and narrow in the center. Turn the fluid out in half turn increments until you get an even pattern and a nice wide fan.

4. Now, go to somewhere lower on the vehicle out of direct view and make a test pass. You will probably need another 1/2 turn or so out to compensate for your rate of movement (should be about a foot per second).

5. Fine tune air and fluid. If you are getting a few runs, increase your air pressure by 5 psi or more. If you are getting heavy peel, turn in the fluid a 1/4 turn at a time. Of course, this only works if you are doing everything else right :thumbsup:

6. Maintain constant speed and distance when spraying. Overlap atleast 50%.

7. Readjust your gun each time you use it. Different paints require different settings. ALWAYS check your spray pattern on making paper first. ALWAYS!
 
   / Mixing/spraying paint #18  
You almost always needs a water separator, depending upon the humidity of your shop. There are water separators that are meant to be placed close to your compressor, and smaller ones that are meant to be placed right before your gun.
 
   / Mixing/spraying paint #19  
One additional question. Do you need to put any sort of dryer or something like that on your tank line? Or is paint now pretty much immune to those issues?

If so, what kind of drier are people using. Again, I am keeping this in the vein of tractor painting, not precision auto.

Carl


Paint is definitely not immune to air line moisture. Moisture can result in fish eyes or bubbles from trapped moisture under the paint.

To do it right, an air dryer and the plumbing is quite pricey. You can make a low budget air dryer by coiling some copper tubing (best) or an air hose (works ok) in a bucket of cold water. Keep in mind, a water separator will not work if the air is still hot from being compressed. The air needs to cool before hitting the separator, so the moisture can condense. So, the cold water helps with cooling. If you have a properly designed plumbing setup, you wont need the bucket. No matter what, you want your seperator as far from the compressor as possible. 50 feet or more is best. For painting, you should really have a sub-micronic final filter also. Mine is a motorguard m-60. It is a very well built unit.

Don't rely on those little filters that go before the gun. They lack sufficient capacity to be used as anything close to a stand alone filter.
 
   / Mixing/spraying paint
  • Thread Starter
#20  
THANKS strum456 - your right, I set the pressure but NOT while I was pulling the trigger - never gave it a thought. Also your how to set up the gun is great - I am going to do that. Actually I printed that part out and am going to stick it on the inside of my paint cabinet!
 

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