MM BF restoration-more progress

flusher · Nov 6, 2010

irvingj said:
Looking real nice, Flusher! :thumbsup:

I'll admit I had to do a bit of research to see that MM stands for Minneapolis Moline.... Saw my first one of those at a tractor exhibition/rural fair in MO last summer; there were actually a pair of them there. Looked like they were very well made, nice heavy steel used. The two I saw were quite a bit larger than yours, but I don't remember what models they were....

I'll also be waiting for the finished pics!

Curious: did your replacement u-joints come with needles in them?

Yep, needles and a grease zerk on one of the four end caps. A big improvement in the old u-joints.

flusher · Nov 6, 2010

tomnky said:
Flusher The BF is going to look great.

I have been lurking on this one as My Dad actually owned one in the early 60's, He had a mowing machine and a set of plows for it as well. He sold all of it in 1962 for a whopping $750.00 and it was in great shape ! Good Luck on her, I am extremely envious.

Thanks. Hope to get the rear end reassembly finished next week. Then it's back to the engine. It came out of the machine shop in the short block configuration. I'll get it onto the engine stand and finish the assembly-- hopefully this month. Nov is a busy time--planting my hayfield now (plant in Nov, bale the following May).

77transam · Nov 6, 2010

Looks great Flusher! I too have been "lurking" on this one and I'm subscribed, so keep the details coming! :thumbsup:

Hopefully, Dad and I will be tackling a full tear-down resto next year if time and money permit, so I love to follow fellow TBNers projects!

Specially one's like you with lots of pics and details!

flusher · Nov 7, 2010

77transam said:
Looks great Flusher! I too have been "lurking" on this one and I'm subscribed, so keep the details coming! :thumbsup:

Hopefully, Dad and I will be tackling a full tear-down resto next year if time and money permit, so I love to follow fellow TBNers projects!

Specially one's like you with lots of pics and details!

No problem--I like detailed restoration stories myself with tons of pictures. I learn a lot from what I find on the web for such mundane subjects like home-built supports for the tractor during various rebuild steps (jacks, cribbing, hoists, chain and sling rigging, etc). It's nice to find slick ideas from experienced restorers that make the job easier and safer (don't want your precious baby tumbling off some goofy jury-rigged support and hitting the floor with a thud--or dropping on one of your body parts).

flusher · Nov 15, 2010

More progress on the rear end reassembly. Got both axles reattached to the differential case a few days ago.

Then the 24" long propeller shaft onto the transmission input shaft. Held on with stout cotter pins. The new U-joints have grease zerks unlike the old ones that were permanently lubed.

Next, the torque tube gets attached to the tranny case via four bolts

Next attach the wheel hubs

Then attach the left rear wheel

I'm hung up on the right rear wheel because the valv core is stuck and I don't have the right tool to get it out. Ordered a screwdriver type core tool from Amazon. Should be here in a few days. Don't want to install that right rear until I'm sure the tire holds air. The left one is fine.

One of the reasons I grabbed this BF tractor was because the rear rubber is in excellent shape. Paid $1300 for the tractor--the rear wheels are probably worth $600-800 on CL or eBay.

irvingj · Nov 15, 2010

Very neat!

77transam · Nov 16, 2010

Nice:thumbsup:

clemsonfor · Dec 13, 2010

tomnky said:
Flusher The BF is going to look great.

I have been lurking on this one as My Dad actually owned one in the early 60's, He had a mowing machine and a set of plows for it as well. He sold all of it in 1962 for a whopping $750.00 and it was in great shape ! Good Luck on her, I am extremely envious.

$750 in 1962 dollars is a good bit today, sorry i know this is an older post.

flusher · Dec 15, 2010

Managed to get more work done (Thanksgiving holiday travel slowed things down in the shop).
The rear end of the BF is back together. The jacks have been removed and the rear wheels are once again on the ground.

With those bull gear axles and no engine weight on the front, you need to support the rear of the tractor to keep it from doing a back flip.

The rebuild kit for the water pump arrived. Problem: the pump shaft is frozen in the bearing and the bearing is rusted to the cast iron pump housing. Couldn't get the bearing out with my press so off to the machine shop. No problem getting the old bearing out, but the housing cracked in half. Not to worry--Ron, the machinist, brazed the housing together, installed the new parts and cleaned up the pump so it looks like new.

Glad it turned out well since I haven't been able to locate a supplier for that complete water pump, just the rebuild kit.

Next step: reinstall the flywheel, attach the engine to the service stand, install the head.

flusher · Dec 29, 2010

Christmas holiday is over so back to work--flywheel installation.
The timing mark is on the forward face of the flywheel (highlighted in white near the 1 o'clock position)

Here are the fasteners--four bolts with holes for safety wires. I made two studs for installing the flywheel by cutting the heads off long bolts. The plastic cap covers the timing hole on the flywheel housing.

The big hole in the housing is for the starter, the small hole is for timing. You can see the large seal between the flywheel housing and the flange on the end of the crankshaft.

The flywheel is installed with pistons #1 and #4 at top dead center (TDC). This sets the timing mark in the right location (opposite the timing hole in the flywheel housing).

Next, install the two studs and slip the flywheel onto them (makes the job a lot easier since the flywheel is pretty heavy). You can see the pilot bearing in the center of the flywheel.

The timing mark now is aligned pretty well with the timing hole on the flywheel housing.

Checking the flywheel wobble with a dial gauge (has to be within +/- 0.005"). The two long bolts threaded into the flywheel and the short steel rod make it easy to spin the flywheel for this measurement.