MMM on the GC2300

keltonkrew · May 17, 2006

I was initially looking at the Kubota BX2350 which has a full floating 60" MMM.

However I will now be getting a GC2300 (insurance). Is this MMM a ground contact or floating MMM?

Also, how do you compare the Kubota BX2350 to the GC2300. I had this same question posted in the Kubota forum and had a few responses, was told to post it here for your response.

I'll mainly be using this for mowing a good size yard. I still have my other implements from my stolen tractor - 4' RFM, 4' brush hog, 4' rotary tiller and disck/middle buster set.

Thanks.

keltonkrew · May 17, 2006

I was initially looking at the Kubota BX2350 which has a full floating 60" MMM.

However I will now be getting a GC2300 (insurance). Is this MMM a ground contact or floating MMM?

Also, how do you compare the Kubota BX2350 to the GC2300. I had this same question posted in the Kubota forum and had a few responses, was told to post it here for your response.

I'll mainly be using this for mowing a good size yard. I still have my other implements from my stolen tractor - 4' RFM, 4' brush hog, 4' rotary tiller and disck/middle buster set.

Thanks.

loulblades · May 17, 2006

To float or not to float...

This discussion has been going for some time but you can actually do either with the 2300. I recently came to the conclusion that I let the front wheels lightly touch the turf and let the rear float. It is easier to level it this way. Also the rear wheels don't turn so if you don't float them, they will tear up the turf on sharp turns.

I also looked at the BX when I bought my GC2300 (abt 2 years ago when I looked at every tractor made in this range) and have no regrets for going the way I did. I tilled a couple weekends ago with a King Kutter 60" tiller and have been told that it would not fit on the BX because it is not a full cat1 3pt. and the arms won't open wide enough. I also liked how the GC engine reached full power at lower revs and figured it would last longer. Oh and did I mention that nice red color.

loulblades · May 17, 2006

To float or not to float...

This discussion has been going for some time but you can actually do either with the 2300. I recently came to the conclusion that I let the front wheels lightly touch the turf and let the rear float. It is easier to level it this way. Also the rear wheels don't turn so if you don't float them, they will tear up the turf on sharp turns.

I also looked at the BX when I bought my GC2300 (abt 2 years ago when I looked at every tractor made in this range) and have no regrets for going the way I did. I tilled a couple weekends ago with a King Kutter 60" tiller and have been told that it would not fit on the BX because it is not a full cat1 3pt. and the arms won't open wide enough. I also liked how the GC engine reached full power at lower revs and figured it would last longer. Oh and did I mention that nice red color.

keltonkrew · May 17, 2006

Thanks for the info. I was questioning the full cat 1 3pt....from what I was told that the 2230 was not but the 2350 was but I was worried...I have a 48" tiller that I want to be able to use.

Hopefully the deck isn't too hard to level. I have a CC2000 series lawn tractor that's a breeze to level and remove, I hope this is somewhat close /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

keltonkrew · May 17, 2006

Thanks for the info. I was questioning the full cat 1 3pt....from what I was told that the 2230 was not but the 2350 was but I was worried...I have a 48" tiller that I want to be able to use.

Hopefully the deck isn't too hard to level. I have a CC2000 series lawn tractor that's a breeze to level and remove, I hope this is somewhat close /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

todd92 · May 18, 2006

What do you mean by float or not float? The MMM on mine is supported by the wheels. I don't see any other way to do it. The height is adjusted by moving the wheels up or down, it takes a couple of minutes. The deck cuts very evenly and takes only a few minutes to intall or remove. I have no problems with the rear wheels tearing the turf.

todd92 · May 18, 2006

What do you mean by float or not float? The MMM on mine is supported by the wheels. I don't see any other way to do it. The height is adjusted by moving the wheels up or down, it takes a couple of minutes. The deck cuts very evenly and takes only a few minutes to intall or remove. I have no problems with the rear wheels tearing the turf.

loulblades · May 18, 2006

Yes, the wheels are adjustable but don't need to touch the ground. The cut height is set by the mower height adjust knob. If the wheels are off the ground (floating, by my definition), then they work with the anti-scalp rollers to keep from lobbing off high spots.

As far as levelling goes, that should only need to be done once (preferrably by the dealer), but I have relevelled recently just for the heck of it. Of course over time as things wear, a relevelling might be required

I can however assure you that I have had turf trashing on sharp turns (ie: small obstacles) when the rear wheels were on the ground. The only way to avoid this would be to pull the pins on the rear wheels but then they wouldn't be supporting the deck any longer (or not make such sharp turns). Also if your lawn has any soggy spots (mine is kinda like a wet sponge right now), the narrow wheels on the mower would potentially leave ruts if they were supporting the weight of the mower.

If only the wheels were used for the height setting, then there would be no need for the mower adjust knob.

One other observation, if the wheels were on the ground at all times supporting the mower and a person were mowing a yard that had alot of little bumps in it (like mine), maybe all those extra jolts might contribute to wear and tear on the deck (just a theory).

As long as the grass gets cut to the acceptance of the operator (or the operator's overseer), then I guess all is well.

loulblades · May 18, 2006

Yes, the wheels are adjustable but don't need to touch the ground. The cut height is set by the mower height adjust knob. If the wheels are off the ground (floating, by my definition), then they work with the anti-scalp rollers to keep from lobbing off high spots.

As far as levelling goes, that should only need to be done once (preferrably by the dealer), but I have relevelled recently just for the heck of it. Of course over time as things wear, a relevelling might be required

I can however assure you that I have had turf trashing on sharp turns (ie: small obstacles) when the rear wheels were on the ground. The only way to avoid this would be to pull the pins on the rear wheels but then they wouldn't be supporting the deck any longer (or not make such sharp turns). Also if your lawn has any soggy spots (mine is kinda like a wet sponge right now), the narrow wheels on the mower would potentially leave ruts if they were supporting the weight of the mower.

If only the wheels were used for the height setting, then there would be no need for the mower adjust knob.

One other observation, if the wheels were on the ground at all times supporting the mower and a person were mowing a yard that had alot of little bumps in it (like mine), maybe all those extra jolts might contribute to wear and tear on the deck (just a theory).

As long as the grass gets cut to the acceptance of the operator (or the operator's overseer), then I guess all is well.