Michigan_Mike
Silver Member
I have a 445 with a 60" deck, and even if I turn the wheels sideways, it's a very tight squeeze to get the deck out from under. I jack up the front end to get the extra clearance.
Model 455 Question
- Thread starter gager2002
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beenthere
Super Star Member
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- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
The drive shaft doesn't 'just pull off'. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
When removing, there is a ring keeper that has to be slid forward, and then the drive shaft will slide off, also forward.
Same deal when installing. Slide the PTO onto the splines just a fraction of an inch, slide the ring keeper 'forward', and then slide the PTO shaft 'rearward'. Can be a tricky maneuver to do this with one hand. Reaching in under the axle from the rear of the tractor is the easiest way to do this one-handed. Sometimes, the 'ring' is tight, from not being removed and dirt/grease binding it up. I have managed to free it up with a small pry bar or screwdriver, being careful not to damage the coupling.
No manual? Should have been one along with it to maintain it at the Church. Someone at the Church should be familiar with using this machine, and should be able to give you some pointers, safety and otherwise. Also, stopping off at the dealer for some tips would be good.
As far as the box blade, I think the 455 will take a Cat O 3pt, which may not fit the box blade. Finding a 3pt for it might be a challenge too.
When removing, there is a ring keeper that has to be slid forward, and then the drive shaft will slide off, also forward.
Same deal when installing. Slide the PTO onto the splines just a fraction of an inch, slide the ring keeper 'forward', and then slide the PTO shaft 'rearward'. Can be a tricky maneuver to do this with one hand. Reaching in under the axle from the rear of the tractor is the easiest way to do this one-handed. Sometimes, the 'ring' is tight, from not being removed and dirt/grease binding it up. I have managed to free it up with a small pry bar or screwdriver, being careful not to damage the coupling.
No manual? Should have been one along with it to maintain it at the Church. Someone at the Church should be familiar with using this machine, and should be able to give you some pointers, safety and otherwise. Also, stopping off at the dealer for some tips would be good.
As far as the box blade, I think the 455 will take a Cat O 3pt, which may not fit the box blade. Finding a 3pt for it might be a challenge too.
BarryinMN
Platinum Member
The deck weighs 300 lbs so be prepared to wrestle /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif The left rear deck wheel hits the left rear tire sliding deck out from under to the right, jacking up the tractor at the rear allows clearance.
I found a used 3pt hitch at a local JD dealer, they typically strip extras off trade in machines & sell parts separately, cost about $300 used. It is Cat 0 20" wide. The lift capacity is hundreds of pounds enough to collapse the rear tires by half /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif The 3 point & deck height are tied together, I lock the deck at the high point with the height adjuster on the floor in front of the seat, then 3 point works solo.
I pull a 42" box blade & 6' landscape rake with no problems.
I found a used 3pt hitch at a local JD dealer, they typically strip extras off trade in machines & sell parts separately, cost about $300 used. It is Cat 0 20" wide. The lift capacity is hundreds of pounds enough to collapse the rear tires by half /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif The 3 point & deck height are tied together, I lock the deck at the high point with the height adjuster on the floor in front of the seat, then 3 point works solo.
I pull a 42" box blade & 6' landscape rake with no problems.
Attachments
I pulled it out last night to look at it in the daylight. Boy she is a little rough. It is a 1993 with 925 hours. Hood is cracked on the front, both taillights are missing, grill is held on by twine, one headlight is missing, a few of the knobs are missing (but still function), it is 60" deck with mulching. When I get it at home, I will take some pics. Then clean her up and take a few more. I need to get some paint to do some dressing up. The attahcments would be great, but I really want her to look and function properly before I add anything to it. I am excited about it. Since I am new to this, is there anything I need to know about this diesel system before I ruin something, ie starting....?
Thanks again guys. You have helped me so much.
Richard
Thanks again guys. You have helped me so much.
Richard
beenthere
Super Star Member
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""..Since I am new to this, is there anything I need to know about this diesel system before I ruin something, ie starting....?.....""
Yes, IMO get the manual and read up on what a great machine you have now. It is well worth your effort to fix it up. If in doubt, let me know where I can pick it up. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Yes, IMO get the manual and read up on what a great machine you have now. It is well worth your effort to fix it up. If in doubt, let me know where I can pick it up. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Dutch445
Elite Member
That machine sounds like it's been used in a cemetery!
and maybe even rolled over once or twice!
good fixerupper...
/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
and maybe even rolled over once or twice!
good fixerupper...
/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
It does sound bad, and probably looks bad, but from where I am standing I only see potential. They said it runs good when its running, then it just gets hot. I know these guys and know they don't look for why, they park it and just call someone else to come mow the grounds. I am more tha happy to take over from here.
Where can I get some paint? How does this thing start? What are all these pedels and knobs for?
Where can I get some paint? How does this thing start? What are all these pedels and knobs for?
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
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- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
Where is your Deere dealer? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
If you haven't found him, I suggest you do (for your own sanity, if nothing else). There you will find the manual, the paint, the service manager who will book you in to find out why the 455 is overheating, and a multitude of other 'helps' that you will need, and maybe taillights too (although they are not well 'planted' in the metal fenders of the 455.
Enjoy. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
If you haven't found him, I suggest you do (for your own sanity, if nothing else). There you will find the manual, the paint, the service manager who will book you in to find out why the 455 is overheating, and a multitude of other 'helps' that you will need, and maybe taillights too (although they are not well 'planted' in the metal fenders of the 455.
Enjoy. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
KennedyDiesel
Veteran Member
The 48 and 54 do the wheel turn deal, but the 60 is a beast. I've never done one, but the wheels don't turn based on my observations...
Removing the 54" deck is a simple <5 minute job with no tools and no sweat...
Removing the 54" deck is a simple <5 minute job with no tools and no sweat...
That brings up a new question. What fuel is best to run in this one? What oil? transmission oil? Is there one that better than the others? I know I'm getting into a hornets nest as to believes one thing about their favorite vs someone else's. But what are some ideas?
KennedyDiesel
Veteran Member
Deere has top quality lubes for your machine. Hygard Lo-vis for the trans. and you can use deere 15w-40 or something good like Mobil Delvac 1300 or Rotella-T.
Fuel, I'd say use good quality #2 diesel from a station that moves alot. I prefer to fuel from the pump whenever possible rather than use canned fuel.
I'd suggest changing hydro oil and filter as well as primary and secondary air filters and engine oil/filter right away. I use a marker and write the hours right on the filter element when servicing. Have machine fully warmed before you start draining. Engine oil has a drain valve with a tube to direct it right to the pan. Grease the front axle/steering and spray lube all linkages etc.
Fuel, I'd say use good quality #2 diesel from a station that moves alot. I prefer to fuel from the pump whenever possible rather than use canned fuel.
I'd suggest changing hydro oil and filter as well as primary and secondary air filters and engine oil/filter right away. I use a marker and write the hours right on the filter element when servicing. Have machine fully warmed before you start draining. Engine oil has a drain valve with a tube to direct it right to the pan. Grease the front axle/steering and spray lube all linkages etc.
Ok, guys, I just got home with my new 'used' 455. When I picked it up the guys aready removed the deck so it would fit on my trailer. But they were gone when I got there. Ok, got a question... what are the 2 levers on the sterring column? what is the pedel on the left (it is missing a red cover)? Where are the primary and the seconadry air filters? That will be all for now. I will post some pics on Monday when I get back to work. I definately need a hood, and both side panels.
beenthere
Super Star Member
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- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
""what are the 2 levers on the sterring column? ""
They are control levers for the two dual hyd control valves under the left foot rest. The top one operates the cyl to raise and lower the deck.
""what is the pedel on the left (it is missing a red cover)? ""
That peddle on the left is the positraction (how did you know it had a red cover if it is missing? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ). Both wheels will lock together if one starts spinning, so traction can be shifted to both. Not good to keep it locked down when turning as the differential won't work then.
The hood and side panels are an integral part of the air filtering system, catching debris before it enters the radiator. If they are missing, that likely is your heating problem and a good cleaning of the radiator should be at the top of your list. Care needs to be taken not to bend the fins, as they are (I think) aluminum and will bend very easily.
Air is cleaned of debris when pulled through the side panels and the screen under the steering wheel. The hood properly closed will force all air pulled through the radiator to first go through the three screens. This is a very effective design and I wish it were still used on the Xseries. Deere took a giant step backward with the prefiltering of the cooling air on the X's, IMO.
They are control levers for the two dual hyd control valves under the left foot rest. The top one operates the cyl to raise and lower the deck.
""what is the pedel on the left (it is missing a red cover)? ""
That peddle on the left is the positraction (how did you know it had a red cover if it is missing? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ). Both wheels will lock together if one starts spinning, so traction can be shifted to both. Not good to keep it locked down when turning as the differential won't work then.
The hood and side panels are an integral part of the air filtering system, catching debris before it enters the radiator. If they are missing, that likely is your heating problem and a good cleaning of the radiator should be at the top of your list. Care needs to be taken not to bend the fins, as they are (I think) aluminum and will bend very easily.
Air is cleaned of debris when pulled through the side panels and the screen under the steering wheel. The hood properly closed will force all air pulled through the radiator to first go through the three screens. This is a very effective design and I wish it were still used on the Xseries. Deere took a giant step backward with the prefiltering of the cooling air on the X's, IMO.
I have been looking at pics ever since I knew is was going to be mine. So the red I saw in one of those. Reattaching the deck was a chore by myself. She runs great, but I didn't do much. Nest weekend I will by all the necessary filters and fluids to do a complete clean up. I did grease every fittign I could find. Correct me if Im wrong. Fittings are as follows: 5 on the deck, 2 for steering, and 2 in the front wheels. Are there anymore? Thansk guys.
beenthere
Super Star Member
- Joined
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- Messages
- 18,616
- Location
- Southern Wisconsin, USA
- Tractor
- JD_4x2_Gator, JD_4300, JD_425, JD_455 AWS, added JD_455, JD_110, JD_X485(sold)
Hopefully you have an air compressor for cleaning out the radiator and screens, and backblowing the dirt out. I would avoid using water as it may just cake everything in there tight together.
You are right about the grease zirks, if by 'in the front wheels' you mean the spindle pivots at the end of the front axle. Also, should be one on the axle pivot point too. Look underneath, and if you don't see it, it may be broken off and have to be replaced. The way some people use them, they are in a vulnerable spot but one that can be reached to grease, if I remember correctly. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Then, with your new manual, follow the deck leveling procedure, beginning with the correct tire pressure, leveling right to left, and then fore and aft. Then figure out the height adjustment knob that you turn to hold the deck at the height you want to cut (often 3" ± 0.5").
You are right about the grease zirks, if by 'in the front wheels' you mean the spindle pivots at the end of the front axle. Also, should be one on the axle pivot point too. Look underneath, and if you don't see it, it may be broken off and have to be replaced. The way some people use them, they are in a vulnerable spot but one that can be reached to grease, if I remember correctly. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Then, with your new manual, follow the deck leveling procedure, beginning with the correct tire pressure, leveling right to left, and then fore and aft. Then figure out the height adjustment knob that you turn to hold the deck at the height you want to cut (often 3" ± 0.5").
KennedyDiesel
Veteran Member
The front grill section pulls out and you'll see a black canister with a wing nut and a rubber one way valve at the bottom. Remove the first wing nut and pull the end off of the canister.
There should be an oring sealing the two sections.
Another wing nut for the primary, and yet another for the secondary. I believe they say secondary every 4th primary change, but Ido them both most of the time as the secondary gets pretty gray. When new they are a white cotton type material. Watch the seals on the wing nuts etc...
There should be an oring sealing the two sections.
Another wing nut for the primary, and yet another for the secondary. I believe they say secondary every 4th primary change, but Ido them both most of the time as the secondary gets pretty gray. When new they are a white cotton type material. Watch the seals on the wing nuts etc...
