Modifying RK Implements To Make Quick Hitch Compatible

   / Modifying RK Implements To Make Quick Hitch Compatible #1  

snymat68

Platinum Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2019
Messages
807
Location
Monroeville, PA
Tractor
RK24H, Gravely 8123
I bought a quick hitch when I bought my RK24.
I also bought (for now) a 4' tiller, 4' box blade, and a ballast box.

While it's possible to me to very carefully back up to and manhandle these attachments into place to attach them, I don't want to. Hence the quick hitch.
I knew when I bought it that the attachments (and also the quick hitch itself) would probably need some modifications to make them work together.
Yesterday I started making them compatible.
So far I've only modified the hitch itself, and the box blade, but I'm liking the results.

The only modification needed to the quick hitch was removing the 2 bolts from the top link hook and welding the hook in position.
The bolts made the top of the hitch too wide to fit between the frames of the implements at the top pin.

The box blade already had a quick hitch compatible top pin, so no modification was needed there.
I could have simply purchased a pair of adapter bushings for the lift arm pins and been off to the races, but I don't like the idea of the outer ends of those pins being unsupported.
With ground-engaging equipment like a box blade, and the high forces involved, I was worried about the short, stock, CAT-1 pins bending over time, let alone longer CAT-3 adapted pins.
For this reason I chose to add two sections of 2"x3/8" steel to support the outer ends of the pins.
I purchased two 6-1/4"x7/8" pins, and removed the handles from them. I also purchased 12 bushings for on the pins to step them from CAT-1 to 2, and 2 to 3.
The end result is 100% quick hitch compatible, but can still be attached directly to the CAT-1 arms/top-link if needed. And in either configuration, I don't have to worry about bending pins or tweaking the frame.

Everything looks great after a couple coats of paint to touch up the bare steel.
Still to come are similar modifications to the tiller and ballast box.

Sorry for the sideways picture.

20190407_171612.jpg


20190407_171620.jpg


20190407_174059.jpg
 
Last edited:
   / Modifying RK Implements To Make Quick Hitch Compatible #2  
How does the rk24 handle the 48” box blade? What have you used it for so far?

I am trying to pick between the box blade or land plane.
 
   / Modifying RK Implements To Make Quick Hitch Compatible
  • Thread Starter
#3  
How does the rk24 handle the 48” box blade? What have you used it for so far?

I am trying to pick between the box blade or land plane.

It handles it well. I haven't done much more than play around out back with it so far, but it's a good size and fit for the RK24. I did hit a large buried rock with one of the rippers and it stopped the tractor dead in it's tracks with all 4 wheels spinning. But after backing up and slowly coming at it again, it pulled it up outta the dirt and clay. I don't think I'd go any bigger than the 48" box blade unless using it for something "easier" like a gravel driveway.
 
   / Modifying RK Implements To Make Quick Hitch Compatible #4  
Not sure I understand what part of thr implement was hitting the toplink bolts?

Those are made to be adjustable. Mine is...bolts dont interfere with any implement I have hooked to.

By welding.....going forward, you will have to make sure all of your implements are now the right setup for the permanent hook. Which will rule out alot of older stuff. Alot of older stuff kept things pretty standard on the lower pin spacing. But the height of the toplink could vary quite a bit based on my experience.

Do you have a picture of what/how the bolts were interfering?
 
   / Modifying RK Implements To Make Quick Hitch Compatible
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Not sure I understand what part of thr implement was hitting the toplink bolts?

Those are made to be adjustable. Mine is...bolts dont interfere with any implement I have hooked to.

By welding.....going forward, you will have to make sure all of your implements are now the right setup for the permanent hook. Which will rule out alot of older stuff. Alot of older stuff kept things pretty standard on the lower pin spacing. But the height of the toplink could vary quite a bit based on my experience.

Do you have a picture of what/how the bolts were interfering?

The circled bolt heads (and nuts and lockwashers) were enough to hit the front edge of the circled side plates, and not allow the hook to go back enough to catch the top link pin.

If I ever buy other attachments that don't fit the now-permanently-welded hook, I can adapt them. Also, the quick hitch cost all of $70-$80, so no big deal that I permanently changed something on it.
My thinking is, I bought the quick hitch to make hooking up attachments easy. If I have to get wrenches out and reposition a hook every time, that's not really quick or easy.
If I put a little time and effort in now to make my attachments fit my quick hitch, it will be smooth sailing from here on out. A one-time modification is worth a lifetime of easy hook-ups to me. :)


dd.png
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2005 Ford F-350 4x4 Crew Cab 8ft. Mason Dump Truck (A48081)
2005 Ford F-350...
2013 Nissan Rogue SUV (A50860)
2013 Nissan Rogue...
2003 Big Tex 10PI 16ft. T/A Pipe Top Utility Trailer (A49461)
2003 Big Tex 10PI...
1998 Ford F-800 Bucket Truck (A50860)
1998 Ford F-800...
2025 K0608 UNUSED 3-Rail Style Fence Panels (A50860)
2025 K0608 UNUSED...
2009 Ford F-250 Pickup Truck, VIN # 1FTSX21Y49EA41686 (A48836)
2009 Ford F-250...
 
Top