Where can I get a complete copy of the owners manual sir... my dad just purchased one for 3k had a1k clutch put in it and I think it's a great decision.. we love the mistibishi and Eaton drive best of the bestof ok with offbrand. And parts are 10xs cheaper... but....I'm looking for the location and how to test the glow plugs also the location of the silonoid to power the glow plugs....
Buying an orphan or off brand works fine if you are a good mechanic. Otherwise probably not. Around here old mechanics sometimes buy old Zetors. Darn good basic machines - but only for the mechanically inclined owner.
You need a VOM to check the glow plugs. Resistance from the glow plug connector to the frame or neg, post on batt. is a range that rises as the plug ages. It should be from half an ohm or so to up to a max of about ten ohms for each plug.
Glow plugs eventually mostly fail "open" just like a light bulb does. So a bad glow plug tends to show infinite ohms and cannot draw any current. Replace it.
Most glow plug problems are a weak battery, bad glow plug solenoids, or fuse.
I've also seen fried wires from solenoid to glow plug.
Just because a solenoid clicks doesn't mean it passes enough amps to the glow plug to light it.
A glow plug circuit does need a strong battery to work the plugs and then crank the engine. Both are real hard on battery reserves. Four glow plugs together can draw almost 100 amps dead cold for a second - which quickly decreases to about 5 to 7 amps per plug as they begin to glow. But the initial shock drops the battery voltage so much that often the battery cannot then crank the engine fast or even at all.
Consider change to a new AGM type battery and clean all battery cable ends/connectors. Check the glow plug fuse.
All of these glow plugs and parts are pretty much universal in their operating specs. If they fit, they might work. Consider a substiture solenoid for sure.
My advice is to ake along an electrical buddy with a VoltOhmMeter and start at NAPA.
Luck, rScotty
