Montana R3644 shifting question

   / Montana R3644 shifting question #11  
it's not Bobcat it's LS tractors you should be able to get parts from LS.

What I meant was, mine has a Daedong engine in it which owns Kioti (Daedong USA) and some of the Bobcat compacts were made alongside the Kiotis. They are all intertwined in one way or another. I bought mine from Triple R in Freeburg, MO and they are an LS dealer and what I understand, they purchased most of the Montana branded parts that were out there when Montana went belly up (when JB Hunt Trucking owned them).
 
   / Montana R3644 shifting question #12  
I have the sliding gear, synch shuttle transmission that has the 12 forward and reverse gears. The problem is that it shifts really hard between forward and reverse (not the different gears) and actually got stuck in forward the last time I used it. I can't find a service manual yet online either. If anyone here owns this model and has similar problem, how did you resolve? I can't even find a transmission dip stick to check fluid.

This repair has to do with the 3040 or any tractor that is hard to shift.
(((first off anything that is hard to shift take this as a tell tell sign there is something wrong with your clutch))) oil on the clutch or a bad pilot bearing can cause you a entire loss of your F-R shuttle.
Repair your clutch or bearing immediately. You should be able to shift with your tiny pinky...or it will break your shift linkage.

Ok this repair is for the guys who forced it and broke their F-R shiftier.
don't sweat it..ill step you thru it....since even the Montana tractor tech cant do this. (or wouldn't share it)

1: your going to have to remove your clutch box lid all shiftier's have to be removed F-R shifter will fall off since you broke it and the range shifter will remove easily with the roll pin.
pry lid at back slowly do not strike it with chisels a big pry bar and steady force the lid will ease upward after all the bolts are removed.
wiggle your lid up the remaining shifter rods and off.

2: drain your forward oil plug..nice clean pan you may be able to reuse it if you strain it.

3: study your trans so you understand when your in neutral and when in gear.
with your lid off you can shift nearly all gears except reverse by hand.
find and select neutral...your center shaft will roll freely by hand when your in N

4:roll your main gear shaft until you can feel the snap ring come TDC on the leading gear #34 on the print comes to the top dead center. LOCK TRANS IN GEAR.
Now either use 90 degree snap ring pliers or outward snap pliers with paddles that can release this snap ring. its a biggy no cheap tools with survive...use the good stuff.

5: after you release this most forward snap ring on your main shaft your gear 34 should advance forward. use brass as your persuasion...your internal any these gears will chip with steel hammers so use brass round bar to bring this gear forward toward the front of trans. just bring it up 1/4 inch.

6: go to your broken F-R shift shaft item #11 on the print clamp on with vise grips (broken shafts will vary) so grab toward the top.
wiggle the shaft upward by hand out of its machined pocket lift upward 3/4s of a inch and roll the shaft a little more than 180 degrees more like 270.
SHIFT TRANS INTO NEUTRAL AT THIS POINT.

7: bring the broken shift shaft upwards the shift selector ball #7 is roll pinned on to the shaft 11 and it needs to be brought upward until it is centered in the gear 34,,Now hand roll the main shaft so the the shaft and shift selector #7 feeds inside the gear cog between the trans case wall and gear there's only 1/4 inch clearance here and your shift selector will use all of it rch clearance. half of your selector will be in the gear cog and half will be scrapping the trans case wall as it comes out.
This appears to be built this way (and its the only way to remove this without splitting the tractor and removing all the shafts.)
I called a million people and no one came up with this for instructions.
either they were not willing to share or were simply dumbfounded when it told them top removal was possible.

so hopefully if you ever break this F-R shaft in your 3040 tractor don't sweat it....it is possible to remove this shaft in just hours
YOU DO NOT HAVE TO SPLIT THIS TRACTOR FOR THIS SHAFT REMOVAL
BUT YOU WILL UNDERSTAND THE "RCH" THEORY "when your done" THIS WILL BE ALL YOU GET FOR CLEARANCE TO REMOVE YOUR BROKEN SHAFT. (between the case wall and the unemployed side of your main shaft #34 gearcog))....its tight and it scrapes the red paint inside your case but it will not break item #7 selector arm.

It re-installs the same way. its your choice....a few hours my way.... or 40-80 hours to split your tractor and then remove all the shafts from your clutch box. some have told them they junked their tractors because of this shaft..needlessly. Montana tractor.com said this is a 5000 dollar job.

I just laughed.....this is a 200 dollar job people total....! with part.
but make sure your clutch is free....and your tractor shifts with 1 pinky finger when done with the engine running.
(otherwise this shaft will break again.): s-l1600.jpgWP_20151011_15_16_13_Pro.jpg
 

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