More crazy 6.0 stuff

   / More crazy 6.0 stuff
  • Thread Starter
#21  
What do you think is causing the surging problem? While idleing it will just surge like to tapped the gas peddle. Ford said it was the EGR tube. I'm just going by what they told me.

I buy fuel at a local quicktrip and a kroger up the street. The only difference between the two is QT is ULSD and kroger is still LSD the last time I remembered to look. I typically burn 2 tanks a week. Where to you buy the cetane boost stuff? I've never seen it before.

As far as idling that's hard. Everything has to be up to temp to start pulling for either way from my house are hills. Also when I get home the exhaust temp is still high so I idle it till it cools. Any thoughts? Robbie
 
   / More crazy 6.0 stuff #22  
Robbie Hegwood said:
What do you think is causing the surging problem? While idleing it will just surge like to tapped the gas peddle. Ford said it was the EGR tube. I'm just going by what they told me.

I buy fuel at a local quicktrip and a kroger up the street. The only difference between the two is QT is ULSD and kroger is still LSD the last time I remembered to look. I typically burn 2 tanks a week. Where to you buy the cetane boost stuff? I've never seen it before.

As far as idling that's hard. Everything has to be up to temp to start pulling for either way from my house are hills. Also when I get home the exhaust temp is still high so I idle it till it cools. Any thoughts? Robbie

You can buy Motorcraft cetane booster at the dealer. Power Services can be bought at Walmart, or just about anywhere. Stanadyne is a very good product and can usually be bought at a truck stop or maybe parts store.

Not sure about an EGR "tube", if they meant the cooler it could be clogged but wont cause a surge. The EGR can definitly cause the surge, but like I said it's usually accompanied by black smoke... It could also be the EBP(Exhaust Backpressure Sensor)or EBP "tube".. This sensor is what the PCM uses to determine turbo and EGR activity and verify their movement. The tubo is used to control backpressure, boost is just a side effect produced by backpressure changes. If the EGR sticks, the turbo will react to BP changes in an erratic way, the same holds true for the EGR if the turbo sticks.The carbon is most likely whats causing the problem and reoccurance of EGR issues. The carbon comes from incomplete combustion, caused by excessive idle time and or poor fuel quality. The booster is a must IMO, it will not only reduce carbon, but I have seen it dry existing carbon/soot, allowing some of it to get blown out.. The idle time can be tough... On cold mornings, I would use the block heater(over night) to minimize warm up time(also nice to have the cab warm when you get in:D ) and try to limit idel time as much as possible.. Cooldown, it should be just fine to shut it down when you get where your going with a 5min or less idletime).. I wouldnt immagine it would be that hot unless it was overloaded or overworked..

Also, I didnt notice what year the truck was. I can give a suggestion for the idle time but its year dependant. There is an idle kicker that you can install, that will run the RPM at approx 1200RPM to keep a little heat in the engine and reduce carbon build up..
 
   / More crazy 6.0 stuff
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Thanks again Greg for taking the time to offer advice. I will definitely watch the length of idleing. I usually let it idle/cool when I get home and go see my 18 month old son and forget it's running. So I'm guilty of WAY to long idles. So hopefully I can cure that problem, go buy some additive, and get it to the shop for a once over and maybe maintain it better with proper procedures. I have also seen those "cool down timers" but never thought much about them. I just need to made a conscious effort to lower idle time and run some additive.

Since you obviously have run both additives and being I need to get my truck into shape which would you recommend? My Ford dealer is pretty close so I can purchase wherever.

Oh yea almost forgot, my truck is a '04 and I believe without the temp sensor in the intake tube. I think there was a 1/2 year model for '04's. Does that sound right? Mine had the plastic intercooler return piping that they replaced with metal when it was in for another problem.

Robbie
 
   / More crazy 6.0 stuff #24  
You could run either one and get good results. However, the Motorcraft version is the one I used when I saw the wet nasty soot on the EGR turn to dust. We did overdose a bit:D , but for one treatment, you woulldnt be hurting anything..

As for the model year, the '04 was a split year with different characteristics.. Both should have the Intake Air Temp sensor(IAT) in the Mass AirFlow sensor(MAF), so it would appear that it doesnt have an IAT at all, but it's there..The easiest way,by far, to tell if its an early build or late build is by looking at the R/H(passenger side) valve cover. If it has a 3 wire sensor in the cover near the front of the engine, its a late build. The early builds are located in the back of the engine where you cannot see it. Thats the Injector Control Pressure(ICP) sensor..

Either way, the idle kicker will cost you a bit.. They call it an APCM and its intended for tow trucks and PTO's as well as ambulances that idle alot, you can set the idle to 1800 if you wanted to.. Its a very good unit, but if you can limit your idle time, I wouldnt spend the money in your case, they arent cheap. If it was a later model, you could do something similar with a toggle switch.. Oh well.. Try that fuel treatment, go heavy on the first tank or two and see if that helps your problem, I've had it fix missfires too, its really good stuff..
 
   / More crazy 6.0 stuff #25  
does Ford use EGr at idle??


I doubt it but you never know.
 
   / More crazy 6.0 stuff #26  
KICK said:
does Ford use EGr at idle??


I doubt it but you never know.

They had some issues with it coking at idle on the 6.0L and later calibrations turned it off after 5 min of idle time... Its still a good place for carbon to build especially with minimum flow and low temperatures created by the idle time...

The 6.4L will run it every chance it gets.. Its going to be more resistant to carbon, but you cant eliminate it totally.. So, short idle times will always be a good idea..

How are the bigger trucks dealing with EGR coking? I hear they all have issues with it..
 
   / More crazy 6.0 stuff #27  
Greg, you are truly an asset to Ford or at least to us Ford owners!

Thanks for you input on these threads!
 
   / More crazy 6.0 stuff #28  
PBinWA said:
Greg, you are truly an asset to Ford or at least to us Ford owners!

Thanks for you input on these threads!

There's alot of poor info out there.These things are a HUGE investment anymore, that bad info can make it a bad experience owning a new style diesel engine.. If I can help to clear something up for you guys that actually own them, I'm more than happy to do so..
 
   / More crazy 6.0 stuff #29  
reason I asked was the big guys like cummins and detroit dont go into EGr mode unless some conditions are met, like above 1100 rpm, not full throttle and engine temp above a certain point.

I doubt EGR is effective at idle, they only use it to reduce NOx emissions,, which occur at high cylinder temps, which aren't a factor at idle.

also probably hard to get EGr flow at idle, due to low exhaust pressure.

whatever, really!, if it was mine I'd disconnect the stuff and figure out a way to recalibrate the ECM outta EGr mode. probably stick a regular wastegated turbo on the thing and call it good to go.
 
   / More crazy 6.0 stuff #30  
HGM said:
There's alot of poor info out there.These things are a HUGE investment anymore, that bad info can make it a bad experience owning a new style diesel engine.. If I can help to clear something up for you guys that actually own them, I'm more than happy to do so..


Thanks for that help Greg. I for one do appreciate people who know about these things so as owners like me can get the real deal instead of speculation.:D
 

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