More electric code questions for kitchen

ejb · May 25, 2006

Yes, the microwave, fridge and dishwasher each has its own dedicated 20A circuit. Lights are also on their own circuit.

The plugs are just for the toaster and coffee maker (and occassional blender) so 2 20A circuits is overkill for us, but required anyway...my current kitchen is ALL on a single 20A circuit (fridge, microwave, dishwasher, coffee maker, toaster oven, clocks etc) and I still have never had a problem....

Yes, I can (and will) talk to the inspector before works starts...but don't want to pepper him with too many questions I can answer myself from research like this...

Oh, yea all the plugs will be GFCI proected as required. What is the *best* way to do GFCI proection? In the sub-panel with a GFCI breaker? just the first plug on each line? or individual plugs in each receptacle? (by best I mean which has the least nusiance trips and which provides the most protection?)

ejb · May 25, 2006

Yes, the microwave, fridge and dishwasher each has its own dedicated 20A circuit. Lights are also on their own circuit.

The plugs are just for the toaster and coffee maker (and occassional blender) so 2 20A circuits is overkill for us, but required anyway...my current kitchen is ALL on a single 20A circuit (fridge, microwave, dishwasher, coffee maker, toaster oven, clocks etc) and I still have never had a problem....

Yes, I can (and will) talk to the inspector before works starts...but don't want to pepper him with too many questions I can answer myself from research like this...

Oh, yea all the plugs will be GFCI proected as required. What is the *best* way to do GFCI proection? In the sub-panel with a GFCI breaker? just the first plug on each line? or individual plugs in each receptacle? (by best I mean which has the least nusiance trips and which provides the most protection?)

_RaT_ · May 25, 2006

1. As mentioned, 2 20Amp circuits split up in the kitchen, no need for alternating. If you run two toasters and a frypan, you will trip a 20 amp circuit so just attempt to have them where you would be on the two circuits

2. A 3 or 4 way dimmer can go in any of the locations. If it is in the middle though, it will need to be a four way.

3. Code will vary, but have the receptacles at least 1 ft from the sink.

4. I don't think there is a minimum.

5. I would have to look again, but I think 100 amp rated Cu wire is #1 AWG. Home Depot has the NEC chart at the wire rack. Copper right now is through the roof. You could consider a 100 amp and feed it with aluminum. Aluminum gets a bad rap and sometimes deservedly so. The connectors in panels and breakers are well designed for aluminum connections. Clean/inhibitor/tighten and retighten the lugs the next day. It was the small #12 wire on 15 amp circuits that was terrible. With aluminum, you need to go one wire size up. For peace of mind and if you question your skills, stick with copper.

_RaT_ · May 25, 2006

1. As mentioned, 2 20Amp circuits split up in the kitchen, no need for alternating. If you run two toasters and a frypan, you will trip a 20 amp circuit so just attempt to have them where you would be on the two circuits

2. A 3 or 4 way dimmer can go in any of the locations. If it is in the middle though, it will need to be a four way.

3. Code will vary, but have the receptacles at least 1 ft from the sink.

4. I don't think there is a minimum.

5. I would have to look again, but I think 100 amp rated Cu wire is #1 AWG. Home Depot has the NEC chart at the wire rack. Copper right now is through the roof. You could consider a 100 amp and feed it with aluminum. Aluminum gets a bad rap and sometimes deservedly so. The connectors in panels and breakers are well designed for aluminum connections. Clean/inhibitor/tighten and retighten the lugs the next day. It was the small #12 wire on 15 amp circuits that was terrible. With aluminum, you need to go one wire size up. For peace of mind and if you question your skills, stick with copper.

midlf · May 25, 2006

For me the "best" GFCI protection is a GFCI receptacle at each location. No downstream trip problems, no guessing which device did the tripping. The GFCI units are only $10-11 bucks these days, not like my first house in 1977 where they were $50ea. The starter wife's hair dryer kept tripping it and we had to run downstairs to reset it. Upper and lower bath and outdoor outlet were all on the one GFCI receptacle located in the lower bath.

100A copper is #2. Pushing the temp limits for THHN you could bet away with #3, if you can find it. #2 is commonly available.

midlf · May 25, 2006

For me the "best" GFCI protection is a GFCI receptacle at each location. No downstream trip problems, no guessing which device did the tripping. The GFCI units are only $10-11 bucks these days, not like my first house in 1977 where they were $50ea. The starter wife's hair dryer kept tripping it and we had to run downstairs to reset it. Upper and lower bath and outdoor outlet were all on the one GFCI receptacle located in the lower bath.

100A copper is #2. Pushing the temp limits for THHN you could bet away with #3, if you can find it. #2 is commonly available.