More Newbie questions

   / More Newbie questions #11  
Moss road suggested using 5w30 Mobil 1,I think you should use a minimum of 10w30 as the manual suggests for year round use and I'd skip Mobil 1 it's overpriced and no better than anyone else's full synthetic oil,I use Napa brand,Citgo,or Shell all about 5.00 a gallon cheaper than Mobil 1,and Use 5w40 diesel full synthetic oil in mine it's a much tougher oil with a better additive and antifoam agents ,and the same price as the gasoline only rated oil..Shell Rotella T6,Chevron Delo Synthetic, all cheaper and very good choices
 
   / More Newbie questions #12  
I run my turf tires at 10psi (or less, depending on how many leaks!). :laughing:
 
   / More Newbie questions #13  
The reason I run 5w30 in the engine is because I operate well below zero in the winter some years. That's what the manual calls for at those temps. 5w30 is better for cold starting than 10w30 (according to everything I've read, I'm not an oil guy in any sense). And from everything else I've read, once the engine warms up, 30 is 30. 10w30 will give you better protection during warm starts, also according to everything I've read. Some day, when the engine finally conks out, I'll tear it down and to a look-see on the wear and tear and see if I have any regrets. ;)
 
   / More Newbie questions #14  
My 2001 PT425 came with a 30+ page owner's manual. Its got my warranty info, attachments and my tractor and attachment serial numbers, limited operation instructions, limited service instructions, limited towing instructions (DON'T TOW IT without opening the tow valve, and move it slowly when you do), limited maintenance instructions, lubrication points (point B does not exist, thanks Terry), filter instructions, and many pages of parts with good photos and identification (best part of the manual), hydraulic schematics and electrical schematics. I can figure pretty much anything out with this manual. I purchased from Kohler an owners manual, parts manual and service manual for the engine right after I bought the tractor.
 
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  • Thread Starter
#15  
Thanks guys. I have the engine oil changed, new hydro filter, topped off hydro fluid, new fuel filter, and gave her a good cleaning. Cleaned out the air cleaner, but still need to find a new one of those (didn't look too bad). Should be getting some good use out of her this weekend moving some heavy things around the property. I did notice that she starts much better in the cold after changing the oil . . . Of course, the only time I NEED her to start is the few times we get snowed in. Now for some discovery learning, where I am sure to have many more questions.
 
   / More Newbie questions #16  
So I will disagree a bit with RD. In my opinion, and you should take it with a grain of salt, I would switch my Hydraulic to 0-40 synthetic if I lived in a cold weather environment (I do not, freezing weather is only 5 days a year and only just freezing in my area). I would also change my engine oil out to the same as well.

The first number, the 0W or 10W is a number that represents viscosity in cold weather. If you live in Pheonix, you run 20 -50 as it holds up better to high temp. So on your machine, the last number, the 40, is what is important to the system, it is the viscosity when the oil is hot. The zero says the oil is pretty fluid when it is cold (not thickening up).

I feel legally that as long as you are putting in the correct top end numberd oil, you are not breaking the warranty.

PT is fantastic because it is a relatively simple machine. You look at GEHL or some of the other slope machines and they are fancy as all heck, but there is a lot more to fail. The engine on a 425 is basically a lawn mower engine, IMO it was never designed to turn over a pump in the cold. You find this engine on mowers that are not engaged to anything until you tell them to be. PT should have probably put a clutch on the system, but it would only be another point to break, and add a myriad of design issues that would escalate the price. What I am getting at is that the thinner cold oil would be easier on the system, and no reason a zero weight would be an issue.

As for Synthetic, I personally feel (and have nothing to corroborate this with) that the oil runs thinner, has less friction, which will help in cold weather starting as well as keeping your engine cooler.

As for brands, people say Rotella is the best, people say Mobile One. I tink at the end of the day you have to do some serious research (there are good places on the net to do this) but that there are very good synthetics that cost much less than the Rotella Mobile one and do the same job.

For my machine, it leaks oil like it is going out of style. My engine I run Mobile One. My Hydraulice I use the cheapest NAPA / Walmart / Costco oil I can find as it tends to get sprayed all over the woods in short order.

Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms
 
   / More Newbie questions #17  
Funny thing about the hydraulic oil... the manual says to use 5W30 but I think there's a sticker on the tank that says 10W40 or something like that. Too dark, windy and raining to go out and verify right now... :rolleyes:
 
   / More Newbie questions #18  
I have to tighten my hydraulic filter close to the crushing point with a strap wrench in order to stop it from sucking in air - it has always been this way. That is the main reason I hate doing the 50 hour maintenance.

Ken
 
   / More Newbie questions #19  
The sticker on my tub says 10W40. This has been covered before, but there is very little difference between 5W and 10W oil when cold.

Ken's point about getting the suction filter tight is really important. An air bleed at the suction filter will create foam throughout your system with decreased performance and wear damage due to poor lubrication. It is important to watch the bleed line as you get air out of the charge pump to make sure that you don't see little bubbles foaming through.

FWIW...

All the best,

Peter
 
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  • Thread Starter
#20  
I tightened the filter by hand as far as I could get it - maybe I'll take a strap wrench to it, getting it extra snug. Now that I think of it, the old filter was on very tight. How could I tell if I was leaking air around the filter? Will the hydraulics become weaker? I definitely don't want to burn up a pump . . .
 

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