More on BX 3 pt mod ?

[DaveNH]

Re: PICTURES AS REQUESTED #2

Thanks for the pics. GREAT JOB!

My machine falls outside of the effected serial numbers,
did a visual and it looks ok.
Thanks for the pictures and measurements.

We're all in this together!

 

[DaveNH]

Roy,
I measured mine and although my machine is outside the serial numbers effected, measures the same as yours.

We're all in this together!

 

[Roy]

Thanks for checking, Dave. I now feel comfortable that I have the correct parts (since your own unit's SN is out of range, it must reflect how the factory is shipping the post-SB BX units).

 

[SamR]

Hi Roy
So it'd seem that your 273mm taken at the place where I measure 240mm says that the dealer had the wrong part for my LH lift link (since the one he brought was the same)- he took the new top link along back since it looked the same- I tried cranking the end of the top link in as far as it would go and it stops with about 36mm of threads showing (new one was supposed to be 36mm shorter)- so it may have been a good replacement he brought or it could've been the same. I asked the guy specifically if there was any way the threaded part would retract further on one or the other making it effectively "shorter" and he said not. Now that I know yours can be threaded in the whole way, I realize he was in error. I wish they'd spell this stuff out in more detail so the dealers had more to work with. They did tell me that nobody else complained about the 3 pt. on a BX but me...

 

[Roy]

SamR; Once, I thought that the only reason I could not retract the old top link all the way was because of paint on the threads. So, I placed the unit in a bench vise, and tried to fully compress. Not only did I try this on one, but two links. (Another story on how I came about to have two of them, which explains why I still have one spare old-style link after the SB work was performed). It was then that I realized there was a stopping-point built into the old-style link cylinders. First time that I adjusted the top link after the SB work, I was surprised how easily the one end fully contracted (the other end still cannot be fully retracted).

It looks that your dealer did replace your old top and LH links with old-style equipment rather than new.

As for others not complaining to the dealer, it shows that they are probably not following this discussion group. I too just lived with it. I was able to get my blade attached, but it took a lot of effort. Having never owned a 3-pt hitch before, I just assumed it was customary. Then our cyber-community discussions made me realize: Hey, it doesn't have to be that way. I really owe a lot of time-saving to this group.

 

[TresCrows]

Help, can someone please supply a center to center length on both the old style and new style top links please. That would be more helpfu than how many threrads or exposed etc. it seems mine will fully retract on the top ball but stilll has some threads on the bottom end with the nut. It seems my L/H lift link is 273mm and the turnbucle on the r/h is a 52mm barrel length not including the nut. I am trying to determine which if any of the parts are the new parts, do I have some combination of new and old etc. I wonder if cutting some of the threaded section off the lower ball end on the top link would allow it to accomplish the same thing, is this what they have done on the "new" link? HELP!!

 

[TresCrows]

Re: PICTURES AS REQUESTED #1

OK, I just went out and removed the two wintess screw in the turnbarrel and screwd the balls ends out so I could see how long they are, one is about 36MM shorter than the other. It is impossible to screw both ends in all the way cuz they run into one another. Can anyone confirm that their top link retracts fully on both ends? that the threaded shanks are the same length or differing lengths as on mine? I can thread either end in all the way but not both ends at the same time, can anyone thread both ends all the way in at the SAME time. Thanks in advace.

 

[Roy]

Re: PICTURES AS REQUESTED #1

When the OLD top link is threaded to it's shortest length, the entire unit's end-to-end length is 17-3/4 inches.

Since my new link is in currently on the tractor attaching my rear blade, and I have to get ready for work soon /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif, I don't have the immediate time to take a measurement on it. Maybe someone could fully retract the new top link and report a reading.

TresCrows; What is interesting: On the old style link, I cannot remove the threaded ends totally to compare shaft lengths (or at least it would take more force than I was willing to apply and risk destroying the unit). Since I couldn't remove them to see within the barrel, I assumed that there was a stop mechanism. Never hit me that maybe the two ends were colliding within the barrel. Sure enough, if I expand the non-nut end on the old link, I can fully retract the opposite end. Thanks for questioning and testing the conclusion. (That is the correct scientific process, which will bring us, hopefully, to the correct answer).

So, you are correct. My no-threads indicator is totally useless. It was just that I had happened to turn-in one particular end in first. It also tells me that if I can remove one of the shafts from the old link, and cut 36mm from the thread, I can convert my old spare into a new-style link.

 

[Charliebrn]

Ok, as Sam measured his left lift link, mine is 273mm, my right turnbuckle is 153 mm, and my top link, fully compressed, Pin-to-pin centerline is 373mm. My BX2200 is new, well after the affected sn's of the SB...

 

[TresCrows]

Thanks Sam and other BX tractor nuts. It seems my BX now has the new parts if Sam is correct. My L/H lift link is 273mm and my R/H turnbuckle is 153 mm and my top link will actuall compress down to approx 360 mm which is the distance indicated on the service bulletin. When fully compressed one or the other end will not full retract, I assume then that is normal. Now, even after my eyeballs are adjusting to the cutting on my link gussets they do not looks so bad after all. A little additional dressing on my part and paint and they will be fine. If you noticed my bio I am an A&P mechanic. My work is held to a very high standard and sometimes I forget that does not apply to everyone, perhaps I was being to critical, oh well, I would have preferred they had asked me at least. Aside from that I think a lot of my dealer and would buy from them again in a heart beat and their mechanic is a friendly sort too, just in the future he and plasma/blow torches, whatever, will not be allowed near my tractor together at the same time. Now if we can just get the rest of you guys happy we will be cookin with propane. JR