More torque for my Power trac?

KentT · Feb 27, 2009

SnowRidge said:
I thought Stray had the White motors (high torque in PT's vernacular).

He has the 12.5 ci White RS, not the larger White CE motors...

Gravy · Feb 27, 2009

I'd bet that's all suitable steel material. What I wanna know is: Does it fit in the engine compartment?

stray · Feb 28, 2009

So everyone will know my machine is the old stile 422 2003 robin engine model. I run Mobil 1 synthetic oil in the engine and high grade synthetic hyd oil in the Hydraulics. For the last several 50 hr Power-trac recommended oil and filter changes I now do every 100 hrs. I have 800 hrs on this PT and feel like it runs as well or better than it did when I bought it used with about 75 hrs on it. I am very pleased with its performance. In saying about my power problem the closest I come to Bobrips reasons is number 5. (Some people push their machines harder and expect more) Remember I have the weaker pump and wheel motors and only the 22 hp engine. I am expecting this machine to do it all, pull and speed. I hope to get it to perform as well as the new 425s. It is just a challenge to me. When I prove this system arrangement works well I most likely will be changing the Quick disconnects out for solenoid valves. Flip a switch to change gears. Maybe I am just dreaming but that is my goal.

The block is mild steal and the pipes are schd 80 steal. Thanks JJ I will be carful. Nothing will need to be disconnected to or from the front wheel motors. The hoses that go from them to the rear motor will just be removed from the rear and a disconnect placed on that end. Two new hoses are required for the rear motors. And two will be required from the pump to the block. Only 4 new hoses needed.

Gravy I hope to answer your question in the next day or two. There is not a lot of extra room in the engine compartment. Is there? (All that stuff has to go somewhere in here (see pic)

Thanks Guys.

stray · Mar 3, 2009

Ok the work is done but I haven稚 tried it out enough to comment. I went ahead change the engine oil and filter and the Hyd filter. AS it looks now to change the hyd filter I need to remove the unit. It痴 not that much trouble. I will post again after I have tried the tractor out more. As it is when I finished and pulled the Pt back into place in the shop I ran it up again the block wall gave it peddle till one of the front tires spin. Also I can tell already that it is defiantly geared much slower. Some of the Hoses could be made to a better more compact length but if I fill this gear is useful I plan to go the solenoid route anyway. I will do a neater more compact job then.
And yes I know. When the weather gets a little better I will give it a bath.

MossRoad · Mar 3, 2009

Looks good. Can't wait for the test results. Get out a garden hose and flood some dirt and do the mud test!

SnowRidge · Mar 3, 2009

MossRoad said:
Looks good. Can't wait for the test results. Get out a garden hose and flood some dirt and do the mud test!

There is nothing like East Tennessee dirt. A flea market in Sweetwater has a vendor that sells T-shirts dyed red with the stuff.

J_J · Mar 3, 2009

stray said:
Ok the work is done but I haven稚 tried it out enough to comment. I went ahead change the engine oil and filter and the Hyd filter. AS it looks now to change the hyd filter I need to remove the unit. It痴 not that much trouble. I will post again after I have tried the tractor out more. As it is when I finished and pulled the Pt back into place in the shop I ran it up again the block wall gave it peddle till one of the front tires spin. Also I can tell already that it is defiantly geared much slower. Some of the Hoses could be made to a better more compact length but if I fill this gear is useful I plan to go the solenoid route anyway. I will do a neater more compact job then.
And yes I know. When the weather gets a little better I will give it a bath.

I am still trying to figured what you did. I am assuming that you have all the wheel motors plumbed in series. If that is true, you have now divided the psi across each wheel motor, Now, each wheel motor is getting the same volume, and if one wheel spins, you will still have traction, but reduced somewhat. You have also reduced you top speed. You just have to do a weight transfer., which isn't easy. Your best traction will occur when each wheel has the same weight on it, and this is rare when going up hill, but can be compensated by the front attachment, to shift weight.

stray · Mar 4, 2009

Sorry Moss but this set up will not be good for the mud. I need to make it clear that this set up gears the Pt lower but will not help traction. In fact without flow compensators the traction will be much less. There would be a tendency for one wheel to spin and rob power from the others. What I am hoping it will do is haul a large bucket of dirt up a steep dry pond bank. It really needs to be fixed to where one can switch back and forth with a switch while on the fly. If the gear seems to do the pond thing then I will install the solenoid valves to do this.

JJ the system is as you said. I call it parallel. It divides the flow into four different routes instead of two. The pump (while holding the same peddle position) will need to pump twice the fluid to travel the same distance as before. The pump (while holding the same peddle position) will only need to produce half the pressure to apply the same push or pull. Now of course this statement excludes other factors such as spinning wheels.
I should be able to test the system this weekend.

SnowRidge · Mar 4, 2009

You could add flow dividers to each side to prevent a spinning wheel from getting all the fluid.

Example Flow Divider

MossRoad · Mar 4, 2009

stray said:
... In fact without flow compensators the traction will be much less. There would be a tendency for one wheel to spin and rob power from the others. What I am hoping it will do is haul a large bucket of dirt up a steep dry pond bank. It really needs to be fixed to where one can switch back and forth with a switch while on the fly. If the gear seems to do the pond thing then I will install the solenoid valves to do this.
....

When I hill climb with a load, and things start to spin, I back off the pedal a bit, as discussed in other posts. If that doesn't work, no matter how slow I try to go forward, the spinning wheel still spins due to lack of traction, not lack of power(torque). I've never run out of power, just traction. I have turf tires, by the way.

I'm curious to see how it works out for you. Best of luck this weekend.