More tractor life expectancy - but not the motor?

[Jay4200]

In the current TLE post, everyone seems in agreement that a little diesel motor will run 10,000 hours or so. But what about the rest of the tractor? There are a lot of complex mechanical assemblies in these things.

How long is the typical lifetime before major overhaul/repair of the rest of the major components? For example, PTO innards, hydraulic pump, drivetrain components, transmission, manual and/or hydraulic clutches, transfer case, etc? What failures, other than a blown motor, might kill a high-hour tractor, simply because it isn't cost-effective to fix anymore?

I know I've never had a car survive much past 150k, and every one of them ran like a top when it went to the junkyard.

Jay

 

[scott_vt]

How long is the typical lifetime before major overhaul/repair of the rest of the major components? For example, PTO innards, hydraulic pump, drivetrain components, transmission, manual and/or hydraulic clutches, transfer case, etc? What failures, other than a blown motor, might kill a high-hour tractor, simply because it isn't cost-effective to fix anymore?

Mornin Jay,
Ive always felt that much of your tractor component longevity is directly related to your maintainance schedule and the way your tractor is used and or abused /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I have owned a MF 1040 FWD for the past couple of years that has served ne well, I purchased the machine with a little over 1300 hrs, and now have about 1430 hrs on it now. When I got it I changed all filters and fluids and so far so good /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I feel the first thing thats going to go will be the clutch /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif there is not much adjustment left. Even if I do the job myself, it will be pretty expensive. Its a two stage clutch and I believe the parts are not cheap. Im planing on running it until it needs to be replaced, because I can mow my fields with another tractor I own. I also feel that the hydraulics pump could be another potential trouble spot, but have never looked into rebuild costs or replacement costs.
Buying a used tractor is almost always a crap shot, sometimes your roll lasts and somtimes not /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
The most important thing in my mind is a real good evaluation of the machine before any money is exchanged IMHO.

scotty

 

[BobReeves]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The most important thing in my mind is a real good evaluation of the machine before any money is exchanged IMHO.)</font>

Good advice, I didn't quite pay as much attention as I should have when I bought my 71' 3000 but all in all I think I came out OK. The tractor hadn't been maintained quite as well as the seller suggested and have a few items that will need attention over the next year or so.

As it relates to this thread, my 3000 has 3650 hours on the clock and hasn't been particularly well maintained. But even in this situation I have no doubts under my care it will go another 3000 without a major rebuild of anything big. I am going to have to put a clutch in it, rebuild the steering, and front end but none of it is so bad that it can't wait until next winter.

 

[IH3444]

I drove my 1981 diesel rabbit to work again today. It has 456,000 miles on it? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[BobReeves]

Wow, thought my 94 Dodge caravan was doing good at 205,000, But we are getting off topic...

 

[daTeacha]

True enough, but I had a Saab turbo that was at 225k when it was, um, unintentially remodeled by a telephone pole. I've had 2 Dakotas that were over 215k when sold, one with tranny problems, the other in exchange for an extended cab. My wife went over 250k with a Buick and more or less identical Olds with the 3.8 liter engine, and we both have over 115k on our cars, mine a turbo Passat and hers a Chrysler Intrepid.

I think machinery is generally made to more exacting standards and with better metallurgy than in the past. I would expect a new CUT to last at least 10,000 hours, figuring each hour is about the same as 50 highway miles on a car, and the things are diesels and not run at very high RPM compared to a gas engine car, plus get serviced more often. That figure includes the major mechanical components, but I have doubts about the electronic bits on Deeres and some others. I've had too many computers, calculators, phones, etc. etc. fail to put a lot faith in microelectronics over the long haul

 

[Charolais]

Tractor life expectancy will vary in different areas of the country. And even different parts of a state. Life expectancy will depend on what the tractor is being used for and even soil conditions. example: The flat lands of NC. with the white sand. Back in the 70's and 80's in that area if a tractor was used for row crop the sand would play a big part in engine wear. Just about every 140 Farmall that was sold out of that area at auctions had to have an engine rebuild. Those 140's didn't have hour meters but in my area they would run 25-30 years before needing a rebuild. Down there 6-8 years and the engine was shot on most.

Most tractors with high hours was run daily and for long hours at a time. Since row crop is a thing of the past here we don't run tractors like in the past. Feeding cows may take 1 hour per day and that's mainly in cold weather. For a diesel that's not good for the engine but can't be helped. The engine hardly gets up to temp. like that.

In my area 5-6 thousand hours is about what to expect before problems start to show up now days. To much starting and stopping. To much no load work. I have one tractor that's 9 years old now. It has 1057 hours. If we still row cropped that tractor would have close to 5,000 hours on it today.

In 04 I traded a 574 IH on a new tractor. The 574 I bought used. It had 5,200 hours on it when I traded. Engine was still in great shape but the rest of the tractor was getting expensive to keep in operating condition. So yes the engine can by far outlast the rest of the tractor. And like most old tractors that the parts are out of production the parts are like buying gold.

 

[IH3444]

DaTeach is correctO, all that electronic gear in these newer machines scare me off from getting away from just the basic mechanicals of a tractor. That was one major reason why I selected the NH TC48DA. Even when out of warrenty, I can still run a wire to the injector silenoid to allow the fuel to flow, and another wire to the starter. I was seriously concerned about 20 years down the road with electronic this, and that. If neceassy after warrenty, I will by pass any electronic gizmo stuff that fails, safety relays, etc. Last thing I need while in a tractorathon, is an engine, or trans that quites due to some expensive, unobtainable at a moments notice electronic wonderbox! I even don't like the silenoids to shift into 4wd, or the PTO. Who knows what time that will last, or availability in 20 years, or how much it will cost just out of warrenty. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Soundguy]

Aside from normal wear items, like brake and clutch linings... not much just up's and dies'. There are some renewable parts though.. like bearings, and bushings.. etc.

In my 'fleet' of old tractors I've seen everything from full rebuilt to completely oem. For instance.. my 1946 ford 2N.. it has oem brakes and clutch.. brakes are still ok.. clutch is going... engine has 18 psi oil pressure cold, and 8-10 psi hot... etc..

Most of my tractors are from the 40's and 50's.. etc. I've done a few repairs.. steering box rebuilds.. hyd section rebuilds.. etc. In a couple cases, I can see that it was done sometime before once already.. in other cases, i can tell I'm the first one in, from looking at the vintage oem gaskets.. etc... Even in the mid level work.. like removing the front and back sheet metal, dash and steering column / box for a steering rebuild, and removing the hyd 3pt top cover and dropping the belly pump / pull pto on my 8n... it was only 4 days of work... 1 day to tear down rear section.. 1 day to fix and repalce.. same with front.. 1 day in.. 1 day out... no biggie. Clutch and brake job would be similar, if you had the parts, and didn't encounter 'big' broken pieces.

Engine R&R IMHO is the most time consuming, followed by Tranny R&R...

Soundguy

 

[rambler]

Electronics & plastic will kill the current set of tractors. Metal & bearings can always be rebuilt, but once plastic molds & a new generation of electronic building blocks come out, there will be no replacements at any price for the old, & the thing is dead.

Many sub-systems will wear out, but can be replaced. Clutch easily, hydro drive will be spendy. The pto if used a lot. The hydraulics are always spendy to rework. But, all can be rebuilt & are worthwhile if the rest of the machine is solid.

What will kill a tractor mechanically is when the front wheel drive breaks. See that already with Ford 1700/ 1710 series, etc. The parts are so very expensive, or not available, that it is cheaper to buy a used working tractor & sell the broken one for scrap metal than to buy parts to repair the front axle & hubs. I believe this to be the biggest mechanical breakdown that will cause scrappage.

--->Paul