Buying Advice Most Reliable A/C

[Slynxwiler]

I’ve had a Kubota L5030 HSTC for several years. I bought it used, and the air worked but not really well. But it was a great deal on a tractor, and I thought I could get it fixed.

So here I am years down the road and many parts and effort later. Still really weak air. If I’m going to have a cab tractor, I’m going to have working air. Granted, I’ve been around long enough to know it’s not going to give me frostbite, but I shouldn’t have to go through sweat torture either.

What’s your experiences with A/C units in tractors recently? I’m not brand loyal at all. I’m trying to figure out if I want to stay with the cab or just go back OROPS. And I’m wanting to stay in the 50 horse or so range.

Thanks in advance for responses. The information in this site is great!

 

[chim]

Bought a used L4240HSTC at the end of December 2018. This will be my second Summer and the A/C works well. With so much glass, it's like driving a solar panel and the way the various air outlets are adjusted makes a difference in how well it works. Here's a picture of a thermometer stuck into one of the outlets. Throttling back fresh/recirc so it isn't trying to run on 100 percent outdoor air when it's 90 degrees in the shade helps.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

There could have just been something specifically wrong with that used tractor's A/C? I doubt Kubota wouldn't know how to build an effective A/C system. Even my cabbed Branson's A/C works great. I didn't buy it used, so there was no opportunity for "something" to happen to it that neither I, the owner, or the dealer would have been aware of. I can't leave mine on full blast if I've been staying in the cab (not hopping in and out changing implements or opening gates). If I'm sitting in it, buttoned up for any real length of time (like mowing), then I have to reach up and turn the blower fan down, as I start getting cold. This is in July-Aug, our air temps can get to 90 F (sometimes mid-90's), and it's humid too.

I would just expect any other brand would be the same.

 

[grsthegreat]

My kioti air keeps the cab very comfortable even in blazing sun. No complaints at all. Its 10 years old now and still as strong as ever.

 

[oosik]

I help my neighbor during hay harvest. It's fun. I get to operate really large tractors and some pretty nice implements. I agree with Chim. The big cabbed tractors are like driving a green house and having parts of your body in ice water. Your chest & head sweat - you knees and ankles freeze.

I hate to make adjustments to his tractor - it's obviously set the way HE likes it.

With a "following wind" we can all appreciate a cabbed tractor and a lot of cool.

 

[kenmac]

I have read some of the newer cabbed Kubota tractors were having cooling issues. Dealers were having the glass tinted to help with cooling.
Down side to the tint is when it begins to get dark out. It makes it harder to see out

I recently bought a used cabbed 105 hp McCormick tractor. This will be it's first summer. We'll see how the air works

 

[EddieWalker]

How old is your tractor? Years ago, and probably over a dozen years ago, there was a thread on here about Kubota tractors and their AC issues that eventually led to Kubota people coming out to that persons farm and looking at his tractor, talking to him about ways to improve it and then Kubota changing what they where doing with their AC systems. This is all a distant memory, so I might be off on what happened a little, but overall, that's what I remember about that thread.

 

[rademamj1]

My Kioti AC works fine up to about 100F and after that, it struggles to cool the cab. Here in Texas it got to 112F one day, and was just so hot in the cab, needed to park the tractor. Keep the AC fan belt fully adjusted and keep the cab air filter units clean. Neighbor has a cab tractor and AC was not cooling, because his AC air filters were fully blocked by straw from mowing, fine dust and assorted insects. He never knew such air filters existed, because he never read the operators manual.

Regarding tinting, only the side doors and back window should be tinted. This leaves good front visibility, while cutting down 60% of solar thermal heat.

 

[Bigfoot62]

. . . If I’m going to have a cab tractor, I’m going to have working air. Granted, I’ve been around long enough to know it’s not going to give me frostbite, but I shouldn’t have to go through sweat torture either.

What’s your experiences with A/C units in tractors recently? I’m not brand loyal at all. I’m trying to figure out if I want to stay with the cab or just go back OROPS. And I’m wanting to stay in the 50 horse or so range. . .

11 years ago, I started searching for my first cab tractor. It was August, and I went to the Brinkley auction in Idabel, OK. Up until that time, I only had OROPS tractors, and they were all blue. I wasn't that brand loyal, but it helped to have a NH dealer 18 miles up the road. Back to Idabel. I went out on the lot at about 3pm. The was shining and the outdoor temp was well over 100. They had several cab tractors, 70-90hp, on the lot. (that's the size I was looking for) I started them all up, and then went from one to another. The JD was the only one that I had to turn the A/C down on! With it wide open, I was literally getting a chill. Plus the JD had more room in the cab. (Bigfoot needs his space ) Knock on wood, I've never had a single issue with the 3 JD cab tractors. The oldest is over 10 years old and 1200 hrs. If I had to do it over again, I would. In my opinion and experience, nobody builds a cab and A/C unit like Deere. The 5e series starts at 50hp. But I would recommend the 5M. The M's start at 75hp.
Between the 3, I have 2000 hours of operating time. Even in the summer, in the hay field, I run the A/C on low. And if it's cloudy, I have to turn the thermostat temp up. If the tractor has been sitting in the sun for a while, I might put the fan on 2 for a few minutes before turning it back down to low.

 

[5030]

Here goes...

1. You need to pull the roof and clean the evaporator it's probably loaded with crap. I pull my roof every 2 years and clean the ac components up top and while the roof is off (the 8 longer screws hold the roof to the top of the rops structure, the rest (shorter ones) retain the headliner. Even though the side mount filter traps most of the dirt, some will still get by and clog the evaporator, causing loss of cooling power. Easiest way to tell if the evap needs cleaned is by smell. If the conditioned air has an odor to it. the evap and probably the heater core is loaded with crap and needs washed out and rinsed. While you are doing that, make sure the drain hoses aren't blocked as well.

I suggest lining the underside of the roof with foil-bubble-foil Reflectix. The Kubota roof is two pieces molded together but has no insulation whatsoever, so the sum beating down on the roof really heats the air space between the roof and the ac/heater blower intake. Adding Reflectix really cuts down on heat transfer and allows the ac to work better. You can cut the Reflectix to size and glue it on with 3M contact adhesive.

2. You need to direct the airflow better through the condenser under the hood. I had a 5030 years ago and I added rubber mudflap strips to each side of the space between the condenser and the inner frame parts. You can also add a 12 volt automotive rad fan and wire it with a relay to the compressor clutch to come on when the ac compressor is energized (What I did with my M9000 instead of the rubber mudflap air directors). Airflow through the condenser is paramount. Little airflow means little heat transfer and little heat transfer equals poor ac function.

3. Depending on the age of the tractor, your refrigerant level could be low and need topped up. If you aren't familiar with charging an ac system, I suggest you taking it to a shop that can do it, but all systems leak some. Some more than others but they all loose refrigerant over time. Easiest way to tell if the refrigerant is low is look at the sight glass on top of the receiver dryer with the ac running on high for a while. If bubbles appear you need to add refrigerant. If there is no liquid movement in the sight glass, you need refrigerant. If there is liquid flow with minimal bubbles, you need to clean the roof evaporator, check the roof sealing gasket. add Reflectix and a new intake filter as well.

The output temp on my M9 on max air is about 36 degrees and it will freeze you out, sunny day or not and my windows have only the factory tint.

Like I said, I clean my evap every other year. Cleaning frequency will depend on your end use but they all need cleaned eventually. If it smells, you need to clean it. If the airflow is lees than a windstorm, you need to clean it as well. Not a hard job, just tedious.

How I do it. My M9 is a 2004 btw. It takes R134. Not sure about your 5030. You need to check with your dealer but if it has R11 or 12 and it's low, you'll need to have a qualified ac service center (or your dealer do a refit as 134 isn't compatible with 11 or 12).