Moving a 400' hedge row

   / Moving a 400' hedge row
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Question about pic size...

it's been a while since I've posted online pics anywhere and if I put alot of pics here for this task, I'd like to be certain the size is manageable. Are they to big a file size? If so, what size should I reduce to?

All I'm doing is transferring them from my phone to LT and then posting. The transfer seems to take awhile uploading to TBN. Maybe it's the file size or just my lousy DSL service...or both
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row #12  
Yeah, rocks...sort of goes with New England. Your trench looks professional and very well done.
How long will it take you to transplant?

Yes, your photo file size is too big. I just kept reducing mine in size until they loaded quicker. I make mine 20% of the size they were beforehand.
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row #13  
Question about pic size... Are they to big a file size? If so, what size should I reduce to?

The pics for me cover the whole monitor plus when I hit the "+" button on the picture it goes supersize. This is on my Desktop Mac. Download time for me is relatively quick, I too have DSL which is good here in my part of town. I'm thinking you could make the pictures a little smaller to see what others have to say. Just my 2 cents.

Hopefully when this project is done you won't have any issues with your neighbor, so unfortunate for you. Stanley
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row
  • Thread Starter
#14  
How long? Good question as I honestly don't know until I start moving them. Once I get a rhythm going I'll know better. I'm hoping within a couple/few weeks, but the real time killer will be moving that material to the other side of the trees. It'll be a heck of a workout for sure, but I'm up for it.

Thanks for the pic size info, I'll resize them next time
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row
  • Thread Starter
#15  
The pics for me cover the whole monitor plus when I hit the "+" button on the picture it goes supersize. This is on my Desktop Mac. Download time for me is relatively quick, I too have DSL which is good here in my part of town. I'm thinking you could make the pictures a little smaller to see what others have to say. Just my 2 cents.

Hopefully when this project is done you won't have any issues with your neighbor, so unfortunate for you. Stanley

Yep full screen here as well which made me think too big. I'll correct it next time. My DSL service is lame sometimes...I think it's the router. But now I notice the lag is just TBN. Every page or refresh is slow. Any where else I visit is ok. TBN used to have a query about load times on the bottom of the page, but I don't see it anymore. Be interesting to see the load time right now

edit...found the load time at the top of the page and it says 0.02 seconds...no way as I counted 18 seconds before it loaded. So at least that confirms part of the delay I'm having,
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row #16  
Fir trees are best transplanted in the fall. Through the winter the roots will do there thing even though the tree is not growing. As you are doing this in the spring you need to make sure you water a lot. I would plan on a 20% loss at least. Some trees just are not going to be happy. Also you might want to consider a way to get water to the deep. In la they put 3" PVC pipe from ground level down to the bottom of the hole for large tree transplants. Fill the tube gets water to roots that would not nornpmally get it.
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row #17  
Those are american arborvitae and he's in Connecticutt where it's cool and rains a lot. Plus he's got thin gravel soil and water soaks right in. If he keep them wet and puts some fertilizer ouside the drip line he won't lose one of them. I've moved many of these in similar New England conditions and can't recall ever losing even one. And that's before I discovered tree spades and pretty much ripped trees out of the ground with a backhoe. Spring is the right time in New England.
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Fir trees are best transplanted in the fall. Through the winter the roots will do there thing even though the tree is not growing. As you are doing this in the spring you need to make sure you water a lot. I would plan on a 20% loss at least. Some trees just are not going to be happy. Also you might want to consider a way to get water to the deep. In la they put 3" PVC pipe from ground level down to the bottom of the hole for large tree transplants. Fill the tube gets water to roots that would not nornpmally get it.

Wow...20% loss?
Maybe I'm a bit overly optimistic, but my expectations are more like 0% loss. I say this with confidence for 2 reasons:

1) The original 100 (now 20'+ tall)that were planted back in 96 were field grown transplants that were planted in May. They were about 3' tall and I didn't lose any of them. I watered them faithfully, in fact probably more than your average person would do. I remember 3 of them were kind of lazy growing for the first few yrs, but they survived and caught up with the others eventually.

2) My tree guy (36 yrs exp) runs the local tree farm and nursery and is confident these will survive without any concerns. He and his crew planted the second group (200) in 2007 and has always commented on how well they've grown. We only lost one from that planting (a year later) and that was due to the competition from one of the mature 20' 'ers. Apparently the mature tree sucked all the moisture and nutrients from the immediate area and the new planting just dried up and died. He replaced it and since then I make sure to water it more than the others. It's doing great now...5 yrs later. The soil is about as good as it gets as this property used to be farm land/pasture and the top soil is over a foot deep. Drains well also. Full sunlight from dawn to dusk and an abundance of rain is typical here in the springtime. Rain or not I do plan on watering them as well.

I do appreciate the concern though so thanks for the input.
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row
  • Thread Starter
#19  
Those are american arborvitae and he's in Connecticutt where it's cool and rains a lot. Plus he's got thin gravel soil and water soaks right in. If he keep them wet and puts some fertilizer ouside the drip line he won't lose one of them. I've moved many of these in similar New England conditions and can't recall ever losing even one. And that's before I discovered tree spades and pretty much ripped trees out of the ground with a backhoe. Spring is the right time in New England.

Thanks for the confidence boost as I can always use it:p

Everything is falling into place as I type this. Weather forecast is perfect other than one day and I'm ready for the serious work in front of me. The icing on the cake is my employer is allowing me to take a week off to do this...or at least try and get it done ;). I have to work tomorrow and then off Thurs for a week. Friday is supposed to rain, so if it does I may go into to work, but after that I'm golden.:thumbsup: I'll take plenty of pics along the way, but be patient until I post them. I plan on giving this every ounce of effort I have including working late with spot lights if I can see well enough. By the end of the day I may only have enough left in me to shower and hit the sack so that I can get up at the crack of dawn and have at it again. Some of you may think I'm nutz...probably am:eek:, but trust me it takes this kind of thinking in order to pull this off successfully.:D
 
   / Moving a 400' hedge row #20  
Watch out for big winds that might catch the row sideways and blow things over. I used to not water when big winds were expected.
The cedar is all roots in a mass and all are near the surface and not very wide. Trees will look scraggly the first year or two and seem like they are not doing well because the roots need to bulk up again to support the tree. So the tree suffers. Hence the fertilizer as well as the water when it's dry in the summer. All your top growth will be done pretty early in the season but the roots will keep growing, especially in the fall and early winter/spring when temps are in the 50ish area.

I'm still in favor of a second row of $1.70 seedlings in front of the first and spaced 4' off the row. plant with a spud bar or seedling tool and do this month. Will make things look better and quicker even if you cut the seedings down in ten years or sell to someone else.

The cedar is the perfect border tree.
 

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