Moving a Pole Barn

[Slamfire]

Like Rambler says, the poles might be at the end of their useful life where they are in the ground. It there is one that can be pulled without too much trouble, inspection should give you an idea if they are salvageable for their full length.

 

[twabscs]

Yeah, I knew about the heavier capacity, but I was worried, as rambler points out, about the pole being much closer to me when lifting it. Also, I thought there was a chance of tipping the tractor if I pulled too hard on the poles.

The sawzall is a great idea and probably wouldn't take that much more time.

Rambler (and Slamfire), I'll probably pull a couple of the poles and if they've decayed much, just cut them off as you suggest.

Thanks,

 

[Currmudgeon]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Yeah, I knew about the heavier capacity, but I was worried, as rambler points out, about the pole being much closer to me when lifting it. Also, I thought there was a chance of tipping the tractor if I pulled too hard on the poles.)</font>

The pole will be closer to your axle, if you lift with the 3 point. It will also be closer to your ROPS, in case it gets away from you. If you lift from the front, the pole would get some serious velocity before it nails your ROPS.




The sawzall is a great idea and probably wouldn't take that much more time.

Rambler (and Slamfire), I'll probably pull a couple of the poles and if they've decayed much, just cut them off as you suggest.

Thanks, )</font>

 

[yooperdave]

The tin will probably need to be replaced, but salvage the lumber the best you can. Deceide what you have left, and then determine the size and height of the rebuilt shed. You will have LOTS of work ahead of you. I hope you have much more time than money to make this project work.

Good luck

Yooper Dave

 

[grainger12002]

It has been our experinece that the tin may be in better shape than you think, also the sawzall does work best(IMHO)for cutting the nails behind the roof and side panels. It is certainly worth your time to take it apart,see what you have then re-assemble as earlier posts suggests. Hey at least you have some young blood to work with,enjoy,should be a good project-

 

[jmc]

Tom,

The other thing that might make your decision easier is to get a materials only quote from a outfit that puts together pole barn packages. Someone on here could probably guess pretty close to what a basic shell will cost. Then see if all that labor and transportation of the free barn is worth maybe $5000 or $10,000 to you. Even less if you can depreciate it. Consider your extra labor accomodationg the used material during reassembly. Especially consider the difference in the final building as far as the condition of the material AFTER being dismantled and reassembled. How much is that roof going to leak after some of the nail holes have been damaged? Compare the two alternatives in terms of expected life, and attractiveness. Did you happen to need that particular size and shape of barn or would something else be better? Which alternative would be ready by hay season? Only you know your finances but I suspect its false economy.

John

 

[SteveBenson]

I agree with Junkman, check to see what kind of nails they used. I've dismantled part of a pole building that used those ring-shanked pole nails. Those nails can not be pulled or removed without totally destroying the surrounding material. It would be a much more worthwhile project if they didn't use ring-shanked pole nails (which they should of for a building that size). If they didn't you are lucky.

 

[SteveBenson]

Ditto on the siding, it will be much easier if they screwed the siding down instead of using nails. Generally the nails they use on siding are also ring-shanked and are near impossible to pull without damaging the siding. Probably the idea of cutting the nails from behind the siding is the best way. But that means crawling over every square foot of you building with a sawzall. You may also put a lot of scratches in the protective coating.

 

[Renze]

We have moved some smaller barns..

Best advice is: think before you do, everything you pul out or break apart, will probably get damaged.

When we moved a barn, we cut the side walls into pieces that are smalle enough to transport on a flatbed trailer. Then spalked it back together with some metal strips and pieces of wood around the farm.

The barn is probably fitted "in the work", at the construction site. That means there is a chance that you have to remind the position of every beam, to fit it back together...

 

[twabscs]

Thanks everyone for the excellent help! Next time I'm out that way (hopefully this weekend), I'll have a closer look at the barn. In particular, I need to check out the nails and condition of the metal siding, etc.

Thanks,