the old grind
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2012
- Messages
- 4,412
- Location
- Mid-Michigan
- Tractor
- NH T-1520 HST, NH TC33DA HST, Case DX26 HST, .Terramite T5C, . NH L785
A landscape rake wider than your tractor. Angle it to draw the dirt in. They are reasonably cheep.
Bought a nice used 7 footer for $400.00
This ^^^, for sure. A 7' landscape rake will pay for itself quickly in seat time saved. One of my CUTs' leveling link (rt side) has 3 holes for quick adjust, on another tractor I count turns up or down to tilt 2-3" hi-lo for either side. Turn the rake to 45^ as Rd1 says and walk along fences, curbs, brick borders, well as delicately as a JD5xxx can hold a tight enuf line. The 'upside' teeth should be just above ground, or more tilt may be indicated. Re-square, level-up, and follow up over all areas 1-2 quick passes to blend/level away from edges. (crown lanes/driveways this method, too)
What the L-rake does best (and blades don't much) is really scratch whatever sod, gravel, compost, stall muck you'd drag it across. No skipping because a rock or root tips it up and/or causes another ripple. Back blade is fine for uniformly loose and uniform gravel, etc, but needs angled to reduce ripples. IMO the rake does all that and more. Extra bite when you extend or swap out your top link for another 4-6".
I use a pre-owned 6' KK HD on ~5'-wide CUTs, and would recommend the 'KK-HD' in sizes larger or smaller. EA's top model is the 'Rolls Royce' of landscape rakes, and IMO exemplifies 'investment grade equipment'. Buy within budget, or borrow one to try out. I borrowed an EA 'deluxe' (my word) and hated to take it back to 'GP'. Best half-to-one $k tool you'll never have to service. t o g