Mower operation

[big bubba]

`would having a hyd top link help in this set up? so that it could be adjusted on the fly?

 

[scootr]

`would having a hyd top link help in this set up? so that it could be adjusted on the fly?

In my experience a top link cylinder is a must have for any tractor. It allows you to change the angle of engagement at any time while mowing, raking, scraping... anything you do with the rear attachments.
It makes a tractor so much more versatile - actually usable.

 

[big bubba]

was thinking the same. certainly true in my own case, but not familiar with this type cutter. feel the HTL also reduces safety risk dismounting every time an adj is needed. i'll never go back... regards

 

[Lineman North Florida]

After scalping a spot a time or two with a rotary cutter you'll usually have it leveled off enough to not scalp it the next time you mow. Seriously though I have never had a problem with a 3 point mower as long as I left some slack in the third link to allow for contour changes.

 

[geargle]

Does your tractor have draft control? One can put enough lift pressure to keep top link tight but not enough to lift the implement, a must with rotary cutters to prevent the scalping, etc.

 

[japody]

This is what I was referring to, I no longer have one but my neighbor does. Good if what you are cutting is thick, if you are looking to have it down like a lawn then a finish mower will follow the ground contours if it has casters on all four corners like the Landpride 2572 I sold to another neighbor before I realized the Mott SHD72 was NOT going to give the cut I thought it would.

View attachment 860106

That's a Sidewinder mower. Great mower.

 

[I Piddle]

Greetings everyone

Long time tractor owner with a question that has bugged me for a long time on and I‘ve never found a good answer or a resolution.

I have two mowers for my tractor. I have a 6’ rotary cutter and a 6’ articulating flail mower with hammers.

When I setup either one of these mowers, I do so on a level concrete pad, set the height, put a stop on the 3 point lever control and set up the top pin on the hitch. What I find very frustrating mowing with either one of these setups in this rugged hilly country is that I am constantly working the 3pt height to keep the implement from digging in or riding too high and keeping a fairly consistent cut height. Always feels like I need a third hand to operate this and it forces me to mow at a snails pace. On flat ground, its not a problem, but I have hardly anything flat.

What am I missing or is just the nature of mowing with a 3pt hitch attachment?

That is an interesting setup you have. What type of fail mower are you using and how many GPM is required? I would like to have something like that to use on grown up fence rows. Additionally, I don't like to run the tractor over the 6-foot-high brush ground that have no idea what I am running over.

 

[FDMTech]

Those are rough cutting implements. If you want to cut at a consistent height, you need a finish mower.

 

[swreeder]

Does your tractor have draft control? One can put enough lift pressure to keep top link tight but not enough to lift the implement, a must with rotary cutters to prevent the scalping, etc.

I have draft control, but my understand of draft control it is for ground engaging equipment to keep them from digging in too deep. I‘m curious to learn more here, but everything I read on this site indicates draft control is for plows and equipment that wants to basically bury itself in the ground.

Any tips for how to set this up and how it would work with a rotary cutter?

 

[LouNY]

I have draft control, but my understand of draft control it is for ground engaging equipment to keep them from digging in too deep. I‘m curious to learn more here, but everything I read on this site indicates draft control is for plows and equipment that wants to basically bury itself in the ground.

Any tips for how to set this up and how it would work with a rotary cutter?

Interesting idea,
I suppose if your tractors draft control was setup to use lower link sensing it could possibly be set sensitive enough to maintain a constant pull amount. Raising the lift arms as pull increased and lowering as it decreased. Of course I don't see how it could differentiate between increased drag from more material hitting the front of the mower deck and the side skids digging into the dirt a bit more.
With the older and also more common setup on smaller tractors being top link sensing, I suppose again if sensitive enough to feel the weight on the tail wheel it could try and raise or lower the lift arms to keep the tail wheel weight constant, of course if the tail wheel encounters a dip and hangs in the air the mower would drop to get it back on the ground and then when it got heavier it could try to compensate by lifting the lift arms.

 

[geargle]

I have draft control, but my understand of draft control it is for ground engaging equipment to keep them from digging in too deep. I‘m curious to learn more here, but everything I read on this site indicates draft control is for plows and equipment that wants to basically bury itself in the ground.

Any tips for how to set this up and how it would work with a rotary cutter?

For a rotary cutter, adjust the height of the cutter on flat ground uing the top link. With the draft setting at it lowest position, drop the lift arms to its lowest position. Then using the the draft control lever, pull the lever up until the front of the mower raises up to the point where set initially. This becomes the setting for the draft control and you can then cut while the mower wheel follows the contour of the land. The position of the lift lever will determine how low the lift arms will go.

 

[loggin]

For a rotary cutter, adjust the height of the cutter on flat ground uing the top link. With the draft setting at it lowest position, drop the lift arms to its lowest position. Then using the the draft control lever, pull the lever up until the front of the mower raises up to the point where set initially. This becomes the setting for the draft control and you can then cut while the mower wheel follows the contour of the land. The position of the lift lever will determine how low the lift arms will go.

I believe this would only work if your top link is solid and not a swivel or swing type and only if your draft control is sensitive enough to engage the top link valve when the mower hits the ground. The tractors I have operated in the past this was not possible, mind you they are all older tractors.

 

[geargle]

My instructions may not have been a clear as it could have been. Top link is solid, (I thought they all were even if length is not fixed) and my mower has a chain conection between the top link and the wheel. I have a JD 5420.

 

[dannyojudd]

Greetings everyone

Long time tractor owner with a question that has bugged me for a long time on and I‘ve never found a good answer or a resolution.

I have two mowers for my tractor. I have a 6’ rotary cutter and a 6’ articulating flail mower with hammers.

When I setup either one of these mowers, I do so on a level concrete pad, set the height, put a stop on the 3 point lever control and set up the top pin on the hitch. What I find very frustrating mowing with either one of these setups in this rugged hilly country is that I am constantly working the 3pt height to keep the implement from digging in or riding too high and keeping a fairly consistent cut height. Always feels like I need a third hand to operate this and it forces me to mow at a snails pace. On flat ground, its not a problem, but I have hardly anything flat.

What am I missing or is just the nature of mowing with a 3pt hitch attachment?

Over the years I've used a rotary cutter to mow around ponds, along fences and rolling pasture with ditches. Rotary mowers in my area are generally referred to as a "bush hog" due to their design. My Woods rotary mower has a slip clutch in driveshaft before gearbox. I have limestone rock to deal with. I found out in short order the solid top link didn't work and replaced it with a chain that I can adjust. That has worked since 1989 with three tractors and four mowers. I generally run with the rear trailing wheel on the ground and control cutting height by raising front of mower.

I know the single wheel rotary mower is designed to be carried by the tractor, cut with the leading edge and discharge out the rear. The rear wheel not touching the ground constantly. Rough cut for tall vegetation and bush's. Lots of people try to run the rotary mower deck level to chop or "mulch" the cuttings.

For "yard/smooth" look I use a 6 foot Woods side discharge finish mower. 4 wheels so it follows the contour of the ground. Again -- chain for top link so it can follow the ground contour and not be forced into the ground or raise the tractor. After bending one solid top I surmised out side the box thing was required. Rotary mowers with two wheels and hydraulic height control are pulled level and give a nice finished result.

My "top link" chain has large loop on tractor end chain around mower end and "H" type connector for adjustment. Hook for adjustment will work but must be secured (wire tie or bailing twine) or hook will fall off on uneven ground. I operate with slack in chain to allow mowers "float".

I also grease before every mowing session and to date have never had a u-joint or spindle bearing failure. Bent blades - yes. Dented mower housings - yes. Punched holes in tires with cut off rubble - yes..

I mow approximately 20 acres every two weeks in the growing season. I've found night mowing with good lights is better on equipment and operators.

 

[Flogger]

If you are going for a manicure finish you need a finish mower. Brush hog is a very good name for a mower with a single rear wheel.