Mower question

[Henton]

Thanks for ALL the info. I got the tractor hooked up to the mower and she picked it up ok. I mowed for 10 minutes or so in knee high weeds.....brown dead ones. I didn't notice any boggn down but the stuff is kind of thin. Tomorrow I'll try to mow a bit of the 2 acres that have never been mowed and see what happens. I believe it is a Bush Hog brand and I did find a plate on it ....but someone painted over it.

Thanks again,
Henton

 

[LD1]

Perhaps some pics?

 

[Henton]

Here is the mower Im talkin about Purple Wave, Inc. | No reserve equipment and vehicle auctions

Im thinkin I may sell it.......that thing seems really heavy. I just have 3 acres I want to mow.

Thanks all:thumbsup:
Henton

 

[LD1]

Here is the mower Im talkin about Purple Wave, Inc. | No reserve equipment and vehicle auctions

Im thinkin I may sell it.......that thing seems really heavy. I just have 3 acres I want to mow.

Thanks all:thumbsup:
Henton

That there is a bushhog 206. It isnt a very heavy cutter, but it isnt light either.

It is built very similar to my 1100lb 306 cutter, allthough I am sure that 206 weighs a bit less, I cannot find any specs on it. Bushhog changed their website all around and unless you are a dealer, looking up parts and specs sucks.

But for $187 I think you done really well. If you do sell it, you shouldnt have any trouble getting $500+ as it sits now.

 

[Henton]

So you think this mower may be a bit big for my tractor or not?
It just seems awfully big and heavy to me.....but Im no expert by any means.
Its on my Ford 1710, 27 HP and 23 HP at pto.

Thanks Henton

 

[LD1]

Not sure, because I don't know exactally what it weighs. All I can do is guess. But since I know the 100 series is ~600lbs and the 300 series is 1100lbs, my best guess is that your mower weighs 800-900lb range.

Your tractor has close to the same specs as my 29 PTO HP L3400. Weight of ~2500lbs and rear lift @24" is 1500lbs. And I am running the 1100lb 306 cutter as I mentioned. Which is probabally a bit big for my tractor, so I would be a good one to ask if it was too big

IMO, HP and the width mean nothing. Because the width of the cutter doesnt effect how fast you can mow. HP does. Sure, you can go faster with a smaller cutter, or slower with a bigger cutter, but in the end, acres per hour is going to be the same:thumbsup:

So dont worry so much about HP and size. Rather focus on how your tractor handles the weight.

Is that cutter throwing your tractor around?

I assume you are leaving the FEL on, if not, how light in the front is it? Is it a wheelie popper going up a slight grade?

Does that 6' prevent you from getting into tight areas that you need to? Does it make you combination too bit to trailer?

These are the more important questions IMO. Get some experience with it. If it is too much to handle, you will be able to tell in short order. And then you can always sell and get smaller.

 

[jinman]

I have to say that the written descriptions in online auctions are always suspect. Instead of 60", they could easily have meant 6'0" and just made a typo that eliminated the apostrophe.

 

[pacerron]

So you think this mower may be a bit big for my tractor or not?
It just seems awfully big and heavy to me.....but Im no expert by any means.
Its on my Ford 1710, 27 HP and 23 HP at pto.

Thanks Henton

If yours has a caster wheel on the back like the one in the picture, what is your problem? Normally a couple 3' lengths of 3/8 chain are bolted through the holes beneath the lower link pins. There are a couple brackets with a hole and chain slot that bolt through one of the unused holes in the upper link mount on your tractor. You adjust the cutting height with the back castor wheel and which link of chain you put in the slots on the tractor.
You want to have the front of the mower lower than the back by an inch or two so the weeds are cut by the front rotation of the blade and have relief to get away out the back without clogging. Once you have the back castor adjusted you don't have to mess with it again. You can adjust mower cut height by choosing different chain links to hook in the slots.
The upper link from your tractor to the mower and your lower lift arms are then only used to raise the mower to put slack in the chains when you want to remove the mower completely. The rest of the time your links float and all the weight is on the back castor wheel and the chains. Adjust the sway bars for your lower links to center the mower and be pretty tight ( without much side swing ).

 

[jimmysisson]

Too bad you're in (are you?) Kansas or I'd trade you a good 5' and some cash. Looks like a good mower - see how it handles.
Jim

 

[Jerry/MT]

So you think this mower may be a bit big for my tractor or not?
It just seems awfully big and heavy to me.....but Im no expert by any means.
Its on my Ford 1710, 27 HP and 23 HP at pto.

Thanks Henton

It's not too heavy if you can lift it with the three point and your front wheels stay on the ground and you can steer. If the front end feels light, you can put some ballast on the front. Your other option since you have a live pto is to just shut off the pto and and keep the mower on the ground. when you are driving it too and from the fields you are mowing.

If it cuts what you need to cut then you have enough pto hp. You can always take smaller cuts if you come across something too heavy. I always use 5 per foot of cutting blade as a rule of thumb but that's conservative. It more like 3-5 hp/ft depending on what your cutting and could go higher if you cutting saplings and heavy brush.


From the picture, you have a chain type toplink connection. For safety's sake, you really should consider having a top link connection that allows the mower to pivot up and down, rotating about the lift pins a bit, but not allowing it to rotate all the way up. My cutter has a "U" shaped solid link that does this.

You got a good deal on the cutter; get out there and mow!