Mowing Mower + Rock = $

[JohnnyTractor]

I've got the 54" mid-mount mower, and today I clipped a large rock when cutting some of the back field. My far left blade got a nice bend on 1 side. I'm going to pull it tomorrow and try to torch it back to form. I was surprised that all of the blades have a slight curve to them - I was used to most blades being straight. Anyone know why these blades are curved?

 

[JDFANATIC]

johhnytractor,

A mid-mount finish mower is the last thing I would be brush hogging with (you're lucky it was only a blade). If you are going to be cutting the "back field" (whatever that is), I'd be looking at the suitable attachment. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

 

[JJT]

Buy a new set of blades, recycle the damaged one, and keep the others as spares. You'll never get the damaged blade bent back into shape and the heated portion will never hold an edge. Both of these factors will give you a crappy looking mow job.

 

[Bird]

I agree with the advice JJT gave. In fact, that's what I did when I hit a stump and bent a blade a few years ago.

 

[fitzisprint955]

I always walk everything I mow, you never know what could be there. Fitz /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[Bird]

Fitz, when I bent a blade really bad (made a tiller out of the mower), I was mowing where I'd been mowing all the time. There was a large diameter stump where I had cut down a tree very close to the ground. I had been just mowing right across it, but I had gotten a new riding mower, and found I obviously had it set one notch lower than the one I'd been using. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[FortClatsop]

The more I mow, the more stuff I find. It's amazing what "migrates" to the surface.

 

[joes_427_vette]

We grow an extensive amount of rocks a little closer to the northern border. In a 18 x 30 garden I picked a half a loader bucket. I also learned my lesson about the temtation to make one more pass in the rough area adjacent to the woods. Throw the bent blade would be good advice. It will only vibrate and take out the bearing. I have 3 sets to rotate so I don't have to sharpen them on the spot. My IH cub with a sickle mower does the weeds and rough spots.

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( We grow an extensive amount of rocks a little closer to the northern border. In a 18 x 30 garden I picked a half a loader bucket. )</font>

My father-in-law in West Virginia always had a nice garden about twice that size. He had a front tine, walk behind, tiller. I don't know just how long he'd had a garden there, but he lived in that house from 1943, I first saw the place in 1967, and that garden was full of rocks everytime it was tilled. But by 1980, no more rocks. They finally quit migrating to the surface. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[johndeere_2210]

Those curves/bends in the blade are for lift, so you get a nice cut on the grass, and I wouldn't attempt to straighten them, but rather purchase a new single blade if only one is damaged, a set back of $15.

 

[JohnnyTractor]

Thanks for the feedback. With 6 acres, sometimes you miss one. I removed the offending rock yesterday - the tip belonged to 4ft diameter 400lb drumlin granite bolder.

I'll ditch the fried blade, and get a set that I can have a couple of spares. Thanks for the advice.

 

[dmp437]

On the John Deere parts website right now there is a printable coupon good for 20% off mower blades. It's good through May 26th.

 

[joes_427_vette]

Bird; That is good info. I can expect to have a powder topsoil surface ( without large rocks ) in another 30 years. I will mark it on the calander.

 

[ddivinia]

Can you post a link to the 20% off coupon?

Thanks,
D.

 

[cast_and_blast]

Link to parts coupon signup page...

 

[kljunior]

While you have the blade off, you may want to check the cast aluminum hub where the lower bearing is. I have seen several cracked housings from less of a hit.