Mowing Mowers for B7610

[newbury]

I'm retiring to Mississippi. We had been looking for a house with several acres (2 or up) and a little lawn (I thought). It seems that lately SWMBO has only been attracted to houses with several acres of LAWN.

"Gee, the GRANDCHILDREN would have all that space to play in!!"

and spoken with a voice and facial expression that I married her for.

That had NOT been in my game plan, but I guess it is now. I had never planned on mowing more than 1/8 acre and that with a regular lawn mower, so I've kind of ignored threads on the finer points of mowers.

Soooo, since my ride in my sig was partially designed for mowing, even though I bought it for forestry work, I've many questions.

I read the thread http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-buying-pricing/173754-mmm-deck-b7610.html.

Questions -
my reference lists RCK54-24B and RCK60-24B as compatible for mid-mount mowers. Does anyone have any idea how much difference there is between the -24B and the -27B used on the larger tractors? Would they be easily adaptable?

I've got a Woods BH70X backhoe with a subframe, can I even use a MM?
I never wanted to mow with it

Any special wear points etc. I should be aware of on a MM?

Does anyone have any REAL GOOD reasons that several acres of lawn would be VERY VERY BAD (cause cancer in grandchildren?)

Thanks in advance.

 

[easygo]

Unless you have a lot of things to mow around you might want to check on 3 point hitch mower. They are easier to find used in good shape and can be had for less money. Lots of 60" mowers out there. I used a 60" belly mower on my previous tractor (B7510) and now have a 72" 3ph mower for my B7800. My 2 acre yard has about 12 apple trees, 2 gardens, my son's sandbox and various other things to get into the way. I find it no more of a hassle using the 3ph mower but it took some getting used to. I have not destroyed anything with it yet. Plus it is kind of a pain to mount the belly mower on those tractor. Lots of mower threads here though and opinions vary.

 

[Yandaddy1110]

I recently purchased and installed a rck54-24b mmm on my b2400. I always wondered why Kubota didnt make a 72'' deck for the 24hp Kubota till I installed the 54''deck on it. The reason, not enough room. Putting on the bigger -27b could be a major problem for a b7610.
I would think the BH would have to come off in order to operate the mmm. My 2400 uses the 3ph to raised and lower the deck.

 

[medicshawn]

I think the answer depends on what type of Lawn you end up with and what you will be doing with you current tractor. I get the impression you leave your backhoe mounted all the time but I'm not sure how much you use it. How often will you use the backhoe at your new house? How difficult will it be to cut your new yard? Are there lots of trees and obstacles? Will the added weight of the backhoe or it's subframe be a hindrance? I had a B7800 and a L3940 both with RFM. I currently have a BX1860 with MMM. For wide open spaces (my old House was old pasture land) I prefer the RFM. I currently have a smaller yard with lots of trees. I like the MMM better for the tighter spaces and I'm using a trac-vac to suck up leaves.

 

[newbury]

Plus it is kind of a pain to mount the belly mower on those tractor. Lots of mower threads here though and opinions vary.

I didn't realize it was a pain.

I recently purchased and installed a rck54-24b mmm on my b2400. I always wondered why Kubota didnt make a 72'' deck for the 24hp Kubota till I installed the 54''deck on it. The reason, not enough room. Putting on the bigger -27b could be a major problem for a b7610.
I would think the BH would have to come off in order to operate the mmm. My 2400 uses the 3ph to raised and lower the deck.

I didn't know there was a difference in size between the RCK60-24B and the RCK60-27B. I had planned on taking the BH off,, but did not want to remove the BH frame.

How often will you use the backhoe at your new house?

Don't plan on leaving it on excep when needed.

How difficult will it be to cut your new yard? Are there lots of trees and obstacles?

Haven't bought it yet.

Will the added weight of the backhoe or it's subframe be a hindrance?

re: the frame, that's why I'm asking.

It just seems like time to buy a MMM, rather than wait till next year.

So, still, what's the dif between the RCK60-24B and -27B?
I've got a Woods BH70X backhoe with a subframe, can I even use a MMM?
Any special wear points etc. I should be aware of on a MMM?

and what would be a good price for a used one?

Thanks

 

[Yandaddy1110]

I didn't realize it was a pain.








So, still, what's the dif between the RCK60-24B and -27B?
I've got a Woods BH70X backhoe with a subframe, can I even use a MMM?
Any special wear points etc. I should be aware of on a MMM?

and what would be a good price for a used one?

Thanks

I dont know the differences, after hooking mine on for the first time, I was glad every thing was in its exact place. I wouldnt want to have to modify one, the mmm is very tractor specific.
I would say the wear points would be in the mandrels first, followed by gear box , drive line, and then wheels. Im no expert on these.
The used decks that I saw on CL and ebay ran about 1k,not cheap. New ones cost over 2k.
To use the mmm , the 3ph needs to be intact and functioning. I really dont see how you could leave your BH on the tractor unless Im missing something here.

 

[easygo]

As far as I know the 24B was designed to fit up on the B7510/7610 and the 27B would fit on the B7800/2630/3030 tractors. The 24B is 54" or 60" width and the 27B is 60" and 72" width. I would guess that the difference in the frame size of tractors required to design attachment points positioned different on mowing decks. Both 24B and 27B use the 3ph to raise and lower the deck. A dealer would be a good source of information as for what the actual attachment point differences are. I don't know if the backhoe subframe is a problem or not.

I did say it was a pain to install the belly mower on the B7510 but it is all relative. I didn't dislike the MMM but I would say I happen to prefer the rear finish mower.
The process I used was as follows:

1 With the FEL raise the front wheels of the tractor from the ground about 3-4"

2 Roll the deck under the tractor and position as best as I could for hook-up.

3 Lower front wheels back onto the ground

4 Connect the front linkage of mowing deck to tractor

5 Connect PTO shaft of deck to the Mid PTO

6 connect rear linkage (2) parts to tractor

7 Take off loader for mowing

Now imagine having to do the above actions between the bottom of the tractor and the top of the mowing deck. The PTO shaft hookup was a bit of a battle at times.

It took me about 10-15 minutes to get ready for mowing and that usually allowed for proper warm-up time for the tractor. I did the same thing in reverse when I was done as I didn't like to leave the deck on the tractor in case other tasks came up between mowing sessions.
It took me about 2 hours mowing my tree-riddled 2 acre yard plus prep time.
If I had to guess the wheels are the weakest point of the mowing deck, but I never had any trouble with them. They are built pretty solid.

 

[newbury]

As far as I know the 24B was designed to fit up on the B7510/7610 and the 27B would fit on the B7800/2630/3030 tractors. The 24B is 54" or 60" width and the 27B is 60" and 72" width. I would guess that the difference in the frame size of tractors required to design attachment points positioned different on mowing decks. Both 24B and 27B use the 3ph to raise and lower the deck. A dealer would be a good source of information as for what the actual attachment point differences are. I don't know if the backhoe subframe is a problem or not.

I did say it was a pain to install the belly mower on the B7510 but it is all relative. I didn't dislike the MMM but I would say I happen to prefer the rear finish mower.
The process I used was as follows:

1 With the FEL raise the front wheels of the tractor from the ground about 3-4"

2 Roll the deck under the tractor and position as best as I could for hook-up.

3 Lower front wheels back onto the ground

4 Connect the front linkage of mowing deck to tractor

5 Connect PTO shaft of deck to the Mid PTO

6 connect rear linkage (2) parts to tractor

7 Take off loader for mowing

Now imagine having to do the above actions between the bottom of the tractor and the top of the mowing deck. The PTO shaft hookup was a bit of a battle at times.

It took me about 10-15 minutes to get ready for mowing and that usually allowed for proper warm-up time for the tractor. I did the same thing in reverse when I was done as I didn't like to leave the deck on the tractor in case other tasks came up between mowing sessions.
It took me about 2 hours mowing my tree-riddled 2 acre yard plus prep time.
If I had to guess the wheels are the weakest point of the mowing deck, but I never had any trouble with them. They are built pretty solid.

The "10-15 min" prep, plus another 10-15min to remove is a killer, thanks for that info.

I dont know the differences, after hooking mine on for the first time, I was glad every thing was in its exact place. I wouldnt want to have to modify one, the mmm is very tractor specific.
I would say the wear points would be in the mandrels first, followed by gear box , drive line, and then wheels. Im no expert on these.
The used decks that I saw on CL and ebay ran about 1k,not cheap. New ones cost over 2k.
To use the mmm , the 3ph needs to be intact and functioning. I really dont see how you could leave your BH on the tractor unless Im missing something here.

I have attempted to say that it was interaction with the subframe of the BH I was concerned with.

Well I'm going to go 3pt on this one, thanks guys.

And if anyone wants one for only $400 there is what LOOKS to be a good RCK60-24B on sale on CL in DC/Maryland.

 

[Firefighter Kubota]

RCK60-24B is a 60" deck. There are RCK54 -24 B and a RCK54 -27B which are 54"decks .

Just looked at my mower deck manual to confirm above...... Different designs in the 2 54" decks....

I have the 60" deck that I got on CL for $500...great condition and could let it pass for that $$. takes practice to put on and off, a few swears but 10-15 minutes...

 

[leonz]

You will be much better off with a small rear or front mount Caroni flailmower from Agrisupply for your 7610 as they are much less work and are much safer in operation than belly mower or three point hitch finish mower.

They have a continous internet sales special and the frieght is included int eh price we have well over one hundred pages discussing flailmowers and their use here on the forum if you would like to look at them.



A flail mower is much safer in operation around 2 and 4 legged rug rats and other pedestrians as the entire cutting operation is contained within the flail mower hood and the grass is thrown to the rear with the rear mounted units.

 

[newbury]

You will be much better off with a small rear or front mount Caroni flailmower from Agrisupply for your 7610 as they are much less work and are much safer in operation than belly mower or three point hitch finish mower.

They have a continous internet sales special and the frieght is included int eh price we have well over one hundred pages discussing flailmowers and their use here on the forum if you would like to look at them.



A flail mower is much safer in operation around 2 and 4 legged rug rats and other pedestrians as the entire cutting operation is contained within the flail mower hood and the grass is thrown to the rear with the rear mounted units.

I had viewed flail mowers as more like brush cutters and for really tall grass. What i would be needing is a finish (not finnish) mower to change the grass from say 5" to 3" like my lawnmower does.

/edit - what's the biggest flail or finish mower I could haul? 7610 has 18 pto 23 engine hp.
and about how fast on flat like a table, unobstructed lawn?

 

[leonz]

I had viewed flail mowers as more like brush cutters and for really tall grass. What i would be needing is a finish (not finnish) mower to change the grass from say 5" to 3" like my lawnmower does.

/edit - what's the biggest flail or finish mower I could haul? 7610 has 18 pto 23 engine hp.
and about how fast on flat like a table, unobstructed lawn?

Mowing speed depends on the ground conditions and the grass hieght, I move along with our motorised unit at 3-5 miles an hour on good turf and don't have to worry about scalping or missing with grass strips as I always mow in a spiral AND mowing in a spiral takes less time BECAUSE you are not stopping to turn around and backing up to realign the mowers pattern and you use less fuel and the grass looks beautiful with no stress issues.

You just have to go back and run over the circle of uncut grass that is the center of the spiral and it still looks great. No stomping the left or right brake pedal on yours as the wheel and roller may tear the sod if you are not driving slowly.

No, the flail mower is used for turf grass as well with no issues at all.

The Caroni 47 inch flail mower with the finish mower rotor (four rows of grass slicers) will work well for your tractors power as the rotor is passive and delivering massive torque via the belt drive

The flail mowers rotor speed is what determines how well it slices turf; if you travel too fast it will cut poor and the same applies to a belly mower or rear finsh mower


About mowing speeds-


Its not the issue with ground speed that you need to worry about-

You must maintain the 540 RPM engine speed setting to deliver the proper torque to operate the finish mower rotor or any flail mower rotor at the proper rotor rotation speed to mow with it.

The more you mow to achieve the final turf grass blade hieght you want,
the less work is required to mow with a flail mower and the turf is stressed less as well.

The same applies with a missed mowing-as the slower you travel the better the finish.

Mowing in a spiral works very well and the turf still looks great two weeks later in my case.

The flail mowers rear roller is used as the hieght adjustment and has several hieght positions, the skids in front of the rear roller prevent the mower from scalping the turf and allow you to leave the mower upright when it disconnected from the tractor.


Changing knives on a flail mower is much easier than dealing with a belly mower as you simply unbolt the knive and flip it over to the opposite cutting edge if it needs a new cutting edge or replace it if it is broken.

The only real cleaning you have to do with a flail mower is the dry built up grass on the gear box and flat weldments in front and occasionally clearing the rear roller if you have no scraper on the rear roller.

 

[funwithahoe]

Sounds to me like the perfect time to negotiate with "Gram" for a second tractor with full time mowing assignments!!

Funny thing about mounting/dismounting the MMM is everytime I say to myself "this should only take a second" and then every time for a different reason it doesn't go smoothly and ends up taking 15 minutes or so. Sometimes the shaft doesn't want to line up or the 3PT hitch pins don't want to drop down without some encouragement from a hammer and wood or a pin gets stuck etc.

Maybe a big BX is your future.

 

[leonz]

Why do that when he can have a 4 foot Caroni flail with a finish cut rotor for
$1,731.95 delivered to his door with the internet sales price or 1,499.95+tax
at one of their stores.