Mowing With Compact Tractors

[MinnesotaMasseyMan]

I am considering an upgrade from my current GC1705 to an 1835M. I love the midmount mower on the GC and I have roughly 4 acres of lawn to mow. Does anybody here mow with a midmount mower on a compact tractor? Specifically the 1835M? I can't find too much about how they do, how fast you can mow, how it stripes the grass, etc. (I am a lawn guy so all these things matter)

 

[tacticalturnip]

You want to be a two tractor household.

 

[dodge man]

It’s a pretty good sized tractor. I mow with a John Deere 2025r that with loaded tires and a 60” mid mount deck on it weighs about 2400 pounds the tractor your looking at bare weight is a little more than 1000 pounds more.

I like the way mine cuts but I have a country yard. when you start talking how it stripes it makes me think you won’t be happy with it. Myself if you have a fairly open yard that thing would probably pull a 7 foot finish mower and would make quicker work of your yard but I wouldn’t expect a cut like a dedicated lighter weight mower.

Another consideration is what else you use it for. It’s going to be a lot more tractor with much stronger hydraulics and loader. On the other side is if your more after a bigger mower a zero turn would be a better choice.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

It’s a pretty good sized tractor. I mow with a John Deere 2025r that with loaded tires and a 60” mid mount deck on it weighs about 2400 pounds the tractor your looking at bare weight is a little more than 1000 pounds more.

I like the way mine cuts but I have a country yard. when you start talking how it stripes it makes me think you won’t be happy with it. Myself if you have a fairly open yard that thing would probably pull a 7 foot finish mower and would make quicker work of your yard but I wouldn’t expect a cut like a dedicated lighter weight mower.

Another consideration is what else you use it for. It’s going to be a lot more tractor with much stronger hydraulics and loader. On the other side is if your more after a bigger mower a zero turn would be a better choice.

I gotta agree with Dodge,

As soon as you mentioned "striping", my first thought was you need a zero turn. I doubt you will be happy with a bigger tractor running a belly mower. *Maybe* a 3pt finish mower, if you get a quality one.

 

[Beaver Cove Deere]

Buy a zero turn if you are wanting to stripe your lawn.
If you’re that **** on a lawn you don’t want that constant heavy machine traveling weekly on it anyway.

 

[Duds13]

Zero turn all the way.

 

[Eagle1]

Seriously if you want manicured lawn, Zturn or another true lawn machine. I have a BX I used for years but the Zturns are way better. Still have the BX for mowing rougher sections and light duty tractor work. Added a LS for brush hog and the heavier loader/backhoe work.

 

[dj1701]

I got me one of those new-fangled Bx's with the auto steer. It has made my life so much better and does a great job on the lawn.
Every once in a while, it misses a spot. Don't excited though, it will self-correct without any input from you. Trust me on that one.

Dave

Automatic lawn mower

 

[Eagle1]

I got me one of those new-fangled Bx's with the auto steer. It has made my life so much better and does a great job on the lawn.
Every once in a while, it misses a spot. Don't excited though, it will self-correct without any input from you. Trust me on that one.

Dave

Automatic lawn mower

I had one of those but for years it would tree roots, rocks and assorted other things. Now I'm back to doing my own damage

 

[Supraman0614]

I thought I wanted to maintain one machine for mowing and tractor duties myself, but I was very disappointed with the results. I bought a set of turf tires (to swap my ag tires which I don't usually need in the summer), and a 6' 3-pt finish mower. My dealer said that unless I have a perfectly flat lawn, which I don't, a 7' mower would not work well. I took the loader assembly off so it was just the tractor weight and the mower deck.

Didn't do too bad, but didn't look as good as it did when I used my old Ford front mower (sad I couldn't find parts to keep fixing that). I have a country lawn as well, so as long as the grass is cut, I don't need it to be perfect, but I like it to look nice. The biggest issue I had with it was that it took me a lot longer to mow than it should have, and definitely longer than it took for my old front mower. The tractor simply does not have the turning radius that a purpose built mower has. Not to mention, it forced me to mow a few sections one way only, and started leaving imprints where the tires rode after repeat mowing.

I ended up getting a great deal on a Jacobsen Turfcat, and I haven't looked back. Much better mowing quality, more maneuverable, lighter on the lawn, and much faster than the tractor. It seems more economical to maintain only one machine, but it didn't end up that way for me.

 

[dj1701]

This is how I used to mow. I don't recommend it. If you're going the tractor route, go smaller with a belly mower.

Dave

 

[Texasmark]

I am considering an upgrade from my current GC1705 to an 1835M. I love the midmount mower on the GC and I have roughly 4 acres of lawn to mow. Does anybody here mow with a midmount mower on a compact tractor? Specifically the 1835M? I can't find too much about how they do, how fast you can mow, how it stripes the grass, etc. (I am a lawn guy so all these things matter)

My biggest problem with mowers other than shredder type equipment is loading up with grass clippings and getting them cleaned out. I have several types of equipment to address the problem and my current method is to take my 25 hp tractor loader and with a chain on the front end, lift the mower for access in cleaning. This method also allows me to move the wash site so that I don't build up a pile of soggy clippings in one spot.

Having a MMM in my opinion is in your way for everything you do, especially if a lot of getting on and off, and my anticipating how one would effectively clean one out....disregarding the so called wash ports and all that "stuff". Besides that you have a heavy, bulky, mower package, especially if you have a back hoe attachment and close in trimming is a joke besides potentially making ruts in your lawn.

For field mowing you aren't going anywhere with a 3 blade, lawnmower hanging under your tractor!

So, I have tractors to do tractor work, shredders for attaching to tractors, and both ZT and conventional mowers to do lawn mowing, all of which are easy to clean and don't get in the way of other functions.

 

[dodge man]

This is my deck and how I clean it off underneath. I use my forks to lift it up and then tilt it back on the headache rack to clean it and sharpen the blades. In this picture I didn't do any cleaning, if the grass is dry it is almost self cleaning. Mine is a JD with the 60” autoconnect deck. It’s not hands free but almost. Not exaggerating it comes Off in two minutes and back on in the same time.

 

[crazyjake8493]

If you're a "lawn guy" get a zero turn. It'll mow nicer, faster, more manuverable, more convenient. I have 3 acres and I couldn't imagine using my tractor for weekly mowing.

 

[MoKelly]

I agree with the ZTR if you want lawn stripes and fast mowing.

I have both - CT235 with pull behind 60” finish mower and Bad Boy 60” ZTR.

The Bad Boy cuts fast and stripes. I use it for the grass around the house (about 3 acres). Can mow in an hour including going around trees, bushes, well and septic stuff. This gets cut about once a week in Spring.

I use the tractor for the grass further away. It’s about 5 acres and straight with no trees or bushes. It takes longer but it a nice ride and I am in no hurry. This gets cut about every 2 weeks in Spring.

Good luck.

 

[dadohead]

The weakest portion of the cut in a rotary impact mower are the 'forward sweep' portions of the blades (the blade half that is traveling forward). Why? The mower housing is bending the grass forward before being cut. It is difficult to mechanically lift it when the blades are going in the same direction. The 'back sweep' section cuts best (it's like shaving against the grain. Yeah, you'll bleed but man... you get a close shave!)

The trouble with mowers is that they need wheels. Those wheels also bend the grass forward then 2000lbs of tractor mashes it down (once on a MMM; twice on a rear mount.) Tractor engineers pay close attention to where the tire track are. Align the tire tracks (grass really mashed forward) with the forward sweep of the mower blades... and you have uncut stripes called "tire tracking". After a few days the uncut grass stands back up to your horror. Wife says "looks nice dear" with an eye roll.

Engineers do all kinds of things to improve cut quality: higher lift blades, high tip speeds, raised front mower housings, etc. The most effective by far: move the wheels!!! Not much you can do for rear mounted mowers. They are generic... designed to fit anything. They are the ugly step child. Most MMM are at least designed by the manufacturer for their application. Shifting the mower sideways to optimize cut quality is the first thing you try... but, of course, you are limited.

Front mount mowers are the answer man. The only wheels ahead of the mower are casters; you can shift those! And they do. Move the front caster away from the forward sweeps, high tip speed, high HP... oh baby. There is a reason they cut so well at 6 mph!

 

[MinnesotaMasseyMan]

Thank you all for the feedback. Lots of good points and things to consider!