JeffSpencer
Bronze Member
I was wondering the same thing. If the lines are sloped too much, you will run the liquids to the bottom too fast and have build-up.
Mowing Mowing with CUT on Spetic System Lines?
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slowzuki
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Do you mean after the tank to the field? If there is anything but just liquid in them the system will fail very quickly. Your tank is designed to catch all solids. It should be pumped out regularly.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was wondering the same thing. If the lines are sloped too much, you will run the liquids to the bottom too fast and have build-up. )</font>
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was wondering the same thing. If the lines are sloped too much, you will run the liquids to the bottom too fast and have build-up. )</font>
JeffSpencer
Bronze Member
I was referring to Tim in IA when he asked:
<font color="blue"> Also, when my plumber installed this he told me that it couldn't have much of a slope. You mentioned yours was aimed down a hill? It is my understanding that this would make the leachate move to fast and may be contributing to your problems?
</font>
If his liquids are moving too fast downhill, he will surely have problems. The solids could be staying in the tank, but the fluids couls be "pooling" downhill.
<font color="blue"> Also, when my plumber installed this he told me that it couldn't have much of a slope. You mentioned yours was aimed down a hill? It is my understanding that this would make the leachate move to fast and may be contributing to your problems?
</font>
If his liquids are moving too fast downhill, he will surely have problems. The solids could be staying in the tank, but the fluids couls be "pooling" downhill.
marks
Silver Member
I also installed an infiltrator system several years ago, part of the engineering required that geological core samples be taken and that a percolation test be conducted. Initially the geo engineer conducted these tests in the front of the house and determined that I needed over 700' of infiltrators. The soil in that location is a heavy clay. However the observant bull dozer operator ridiculed the geo engineer for choosing such a poor site for taking the samples. Hence the dozer operator suggested that we move the field about 30 yards to an area that has sandy soil. More core samples were taken, and perc test completed, results submitted to the county and I reduced the required field size to less than 150'.
The difference between sand and clay is phenomenal, with the characteristics of clay I submit that the efficiency of the leach field decreases relative to the seasonal rain fall. Do you have this same problem in the summer?
My guess is that since you soil is a heavy clay and have two lines that are relatively short, there may have been an error in the engineering? If such is the case, you may need to add more lines or install a sewage pump and pump it to a location where the soil percs better.
For what it's worth...
The difference between sand and clay is phenomenal, with the characteristics of clay I submit that the efficiency of the leach field decreases relative to the seasonal rain fall. Do you have this same problem in the summer?
My guess is that since you soil is a heavy clay and have two lines that are relatively short, there may have been an error in the engineering? If such is the case, you may need to add more lines or install a sewage pump and pump it to a location where the soil percs better.
For what it's worth...
OP
tillboy2001
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The video I took of the system shows 6 pipes leaving the D box going to the leach lines. I believe I do indeed have 6 lines. I watched the full portion of the video that shows my leach lines. More than what you see in that video. I estimate that they are at least 50 feet long. So 6 X 50 = 300 feet. That's what I think I have. My clay is indeed thick and nasty clay. I mean really thick. It does stay wet through summer too (from the leach lines) - just on those 2 runs at the bottom. I'm thinking of diverting most if not all of the water to the 3 or 4 upper runs and see what happens this summer. I know it's very dry in the upper field. Maybe that'll give the lower runs a chance to recover. And we do have lots of rain at times, which doesn't help. Once I get the box dug up, I'll see what I've got to deal with. It should be pretty easy to adjust them. In the better video I have here at home, I think I see the little adjusters in the pipes. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Do you think it's safe/advisable to mow on top of the septic system chambers with a John Deere 4120 w/finish mower? )</font>
The backfill the chambers with machines a lot heftier than a CUT. The chambers that were layed for my leachbed were initally covered with a big Ford backhoe, which ran over them after they were backfilled, then had additional dirt filled in over them with a dozer. This is common practice, and causes no problems at all.
When having my leach system installed I asked the county inspector if there would be a problem with mowing the hayfield that part of the leach system was in, and was told it would not be a problem at all.
Many people do not realize how sturdy the chambers are once the dirt is filled in, but they are quite strong.
The backfill the chambers with machines a lot heftier than a CUT. The chambers that were layed for my leachbed were initally covered with a big Ford backhoe, which ran over them after they were backfilled, then had additional dirt filled in over them with a dozer. This is common practice, and causes no problems at all.
When having my leach system installed I asked the county inspector if there would be a problem with mowing the hayfield that part of the leach system was in, and was told it would not be a problem at all.
Many people do not realize how sturdy the chambers are once the dirt is filled in, but they are quite strong.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The video I took of the system shows 6 pipes leaving the D box going to the leach lines. I believe I do indeed have 6 lines. I watched the full portion of the video that shows my leach lines. More than what you see in that video. I estimate that they are at least 50 feet long. So 6 X 50 = 300 feet. That's what I think I have. My clay is indeed thick and nasty clay. I mean really thick. It does stay wet through summer too (from the leach lines) - just on those 2 runs at the bottom. I'm thinking of diverting most if not all of the water to the 3 or 4 upper runs and see what happens this summer. I know it's very dry in the upper field. Maybe that'll give the lower runs a chance to recover. And we do have lots of rain at times, which doesn't help. Once I get the box dug up, I'll see what I've got to deal with. It should be pretty easy to adjust them. In the better video I have here at home, I think I see the little adjusters in the pipes. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )</font>
It sounds the box wasn't accurately adjusted when the system was put in. The guy that installed mine adjusted the box by filling it with water, then adjusting the baffle for each line so that there was equal flow to all parts of the system. The heavy clay soil my system is in doesn't stay wet, but man does the grass stay a healthy looking color of green.
In heavy clay soil it is recommended that a gray water line be used. This line takes care of the water from the washing machine. I have mine hooked up to the washing machine, they kitchen sink and the dishwasher, and it is coming to the top. To cure this I am going to get the local septic guy I know to expand the gray water line.
It sounds the box wasn't accurately adjusted when the system was put in. The guy that installed mine adjusted the box by filling it with water, then adjusting the baffle for each line so that there was equal flow to all parts of the system. The heavy clay soil my system is in doesn't stay wet, but man does the grass stay a healthy looking color of green.
In heavy clay soil it is recommended that a gray water line be used. This line takes care of the water from the washing machine. I have mine hooked up to the washing machine, they kitchen sink and the dishwasher, and it is coming to the top. To cure this I am going to get the local septic guy I know to expand the gray water line.
OP
tillboy2001
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If I can find a way to easily re-route the washing machine to flow out into the grass instead of the leach lines, I'll do that. I don't know if I can do it though since I have no secondary line exiting the house to use for that purpose. Personally, I think that alone would solve my problem. My wife runs the dang washer pretty much all the time when she's home. We have no dishwasher or food disposal.
BrettW
Platinum Member
FYI, dumping into a creek is OK, and you can sure catch a lot of Crappie afterwards!
tracdoc
Platinum Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was wondering the same thing. If the lines are sloped too much, you will run the liquids to the bottom too fast and have build-up. )</font>
Our system of drain field leach lines is on a gentle slope. We have 6 concentric arcs of line proceeding back from house and down gentle slope. The county inspector was out last week to verify position of leach lines since we are planning to build detached garage, and new drive will be headed in direction of leachfield. He gave me a copy of the details of the field installation, and pointed out that the builder used what he called dams to restrain the flow, and prevent immediate run-down to the lowest leachline arc. He said these dams are standard here in constructing leachfields on simple or compound slopes.
These dams seem to work, since this Spring we can only see "green" striping on the lawn for 3 of the 6 arcs, and last Fall the green could only be seen on 2. There appears to be a slow progression from beginning to end of field.
Our system of drain field leach lines is on a gentle slope. We have 6 concentric arcs of line proceeding back from house and down gentle slope. The county inspector was out last week to verify position of leach lines since we are planning to build detached garage, and new drive will be headed in direction of leachfield. He gave me a copy of the details of the field installation, and pointed out that the builder used what he called dams to restrain the flow, and prevent immediate run-down to the lowest leachline arc. He said these dams are standard here in constructing leachfields on simple or compound slopes.
These dams seem to work, since this Spring we can only see "green" striping on the lawn for 3 of the 6 arcs, and last Fall the green could only be seen on 2. There appears to be a slow progression from beginning to end of field.