MT 125 Max tiller size?

[skikir]

The LS web site says the MT125 PTO has 17.2 HP. The Mt125 manual says MAX tiller working width is 50". I'm looking at a 51" working width tiller that the manufacturer says requires 27 34 hp at the PTO. I have a hard time believing that one extra inch on the tiller needs 10-17 more HP than a 50". The same dealer has 46" working width tiller that requires 18 35 hp at the PTO. Both tillers rotate at the same speed and direction and have the same number of tines. Do you think the LS PTO is under rated or the tiller specs are over rated and I could get away with a 51 inch?

 

[Diggin It]

As long as you're under warranty, go with what the book says. If your dealer is willing to advise otherwise, have them put it in writing. Mine is 48", made by Taylor Pittsburgh in LS blue.

The 51 incher could have different mechanical internals, different gearbox or bearings or drive transfer mechanisms that require the extra HP. The tines could be heavier or cut deeper.

 

[oosik]

It will depend, a lot, on your soil type. Hard soils will require more hp and you might have to go a bit slower. Also - look at the weight of the various tillers and what does your specs say about recommended tiller weights.

This entire area - implement width vs implement weight - can be a real mystery and a PITA. Example - my Rhino 950 rear blade is 1050# and 96" wide. It's well within the spec for weight as Kubota calls out in their spec page. At 96" it's beyond the width recommended. I've used the Rhino for six years and had no difficulties.

Again, with my rear blade. The 96" blade works well for snow when offset and angled. If I restricted myself to the Kubota recommended width - 72" - I wouldn't even begin to plow a path as wide as my rear tires. Rear tires are 80". The width of a plowed path approaches ZERO when a 72" blade is offset and angled. Of course, I'm joking here, but you can see my point. A 72" blade, angled, will cut a 52" to 56" path.

As you approach the limits on the tiller you might have to go slower and till additional times to get the depth you want.

But the Op makes a point. If the 1" added tiller width is the only difference between 50" vs 51" - at 50" we are already dead.

 

[Skipper T]

Ok how did you get the tiller in LS blue?

 

[jaydee325]

The LS web site says the MT125 PTO has 17.2 HP. The Mt125 manual says MAX tiller working width is 50". I'm looking at a 51" working width tiller that the manufacturer says requires 27 34 hp at the PTO. I have a hard time believing that one extra inch on the tiller needs 10-17 more HP than a 50". The same dealer has 46" working width tiller that requires 18 35 hp at the PTO. Both tillers rotate at the same speed and direction and have the same number of tines. Do you think the LS PTO is under rated or the tiller specs are over rated and I could get away with a 51 inch?

I think those hp ranges stated are the hp range the tiller is designed to handle. You can always use a lower hp tractor than specified but performance of the implement will be affected. The maximum rated hp input to PTO driven implements is usually limited by the robustness of the gearbox.

The general rule of thumb is 5 hp per foot of implement size. If the manual says you can use a 50" tiller, then I would not be concerned going 1" bigger. Soil type, hardness, and density will dictate how fast you can go.

 

[Diggin It]

Ok how did you get the tiller in LS blue?

From my dealer. Has the logos/stickers too.

 

[3Ts]

I think those hp ranges stated are the hp range the tiller is designed to handle. You can always use a lower hp tractor than specified but performance of the implement will be affected. The maximum rated hp input to PTO driven implements is usually limited by the robustness of the gearbox.

The general rule of thumb is 5 hp per foot of implement size. If the manual says you can use a 50" tiller, then I would not be concerned going 1" bigger. Soil type, hardness, and density will dictate how fast you can go.

This. I have a 5' tiller that is a foot wider than the tractor specs call for. The 4' was not built all that sturdily so I went with the 5'. I was concerned about being able to lift it and if I had enough power. I took the tractor to the dealer to be sure I could lift it, and I've since run it in sand, clay, gravelly clay with a few rocks. It's handled it all. Be sure you have a good slip clutch and properly adjusted. I do get bounced around when running the tiller, and I have to be in 1st gear, 4 wheel drive to run it. (A bigger tractor would handle it better.)

 

[Skipper T]

Thanks, I called my dealer and he wasn't sure if he could still get this from LS,, I should know more in a day or two.

 

[Rebeldad1]

A lot depends on how you use a tiller. A extra inch or 6 inches really doesnt make a difference. Go as big as you can easily handle. AND as wide or wider than your rear tires. Some want to "get it done" fast= you need more HP. I bought a Yanmar 60" used tiller from a tractor importer. $700.00. Works great!
I also mostly use my tiller just above idle speed. I can get as much done at slow speed as powering thru at higher speed making several passes. Real easy on the tiller and tractor.
Everybody has different soils and different ways they like to till.

 

[SoCalRedTractor]

Yup. +1 on as big as the tractor will handle. I have hard packed desert dirt, sand and rock filled "soil" here at the house that I have battled with shovel & rake for far too many years.

I told my MF dealer to get the Gearmore (they are the implement peeps out here, apparently) E Series 48" (53" overall) 36 L tines, gear driven and it weighs a monster 600 lbs. Yes, it will give my 3 PTH some grief, but, I need the weight of it to eat into the "dirt" I get to play in on our acre.

Patiently awaiting getting the GC1725MB home.

Happy Easter!!

Pick

 

[skikir]

I finally bought a Betstco TM130 tiller. It's a 51 inch wide blade. I tilled the garden a couple of days ago. I was quite impressed. I have amended red clay and at this time of the year here in Western Oregon it's pretty mucky. It's not a good time to do dirt work. I was pretty surprised it did not faze my LS MT125. I needed to clean things out and enlarge the garden and it handled old dirt and new easily. I'm wondering what properly dried dirt would be like.

It's not normally Quick Hitch compatible. I did not think I wanted one but I deceded to get one after the fact. With that big ass hook on the back it makes it real convenient to hook a chain to and yard small logs and rip out old grape vines. With proper application of a kinetic mass converter and re-calibrating the tiller's mounts spacial orientation by 3/8s inch inboard it fits perfectly on my new Titan implements Quick Hitch.

 

[skikir]

Well, I shot my self in the foot - with a Bazooka! So, when I got the tiller the PTO shaft was too long. I cut the shaft and all was fine. Then I got the quick hitch. Now the pto shaft was too short. So I got a PTO shaft extension to restore the PTO shaft length. Long story on that extension and how I "fixed" it but needles to say that fix failed and the PTO shaft extension came off the end of the input shaft of the tiller and slid off and the front part of the PTO shaft flung around and snapped off the PTO shaft on the back of the tractor! I could not believe that 1 inch shaft snapped off like that. Other than the snapped shaft the tractor seems fine. The dealer I bought it from says up to two months turn around time with part ordering and service schedule time. Another dealer said at least two weeks if he had the parts because it's spring time and every farmer is getting the equipment ready. Both dealers are more than 70 miles away. Buying parts for LS tractors on line is hard. I finally went through Messicks and ordered New Holland parts for their Workmaster 25s. I could play the warranty game but they would have to investigate the failure and it would probably be declined because of abuse and all that would burn up all Spring. S

 

[Avenger]

Yep. One of the reasons I am not a fan of the one piece quick hitches. I'd have to get all new pto shafts.

Pretty sure PTO shafts are hardened. Not 100% sure, but I think I remember someone, somewhere telling me that. If they are, then they will break quite easily with a shearing force. Depending on the temper. I remember having a discussion in my machinist class about the difference between "hard" and "tough" in relation to metal.

I have only ever seen one shaft almost break. I was quite young, maybe 10. I was rototilling with one of our old IH tractors and when the job was done, I couldnt remove the PTO shaft. I asked Grandpa for help. Took us a very long time, separating the halves and getting the tractor, with the half shaft, into the shop. It eventually twisted off! The splines looked like an inverted rifle, spiraling down the shaft.

Looked like this, only this is NOT my photo. I didnt have a camera 30 years ago.

We removed the shaft and Grandpa made phone calls looking for a replacement. He found one, a 3hr drive away. We took a road trip. We walked into this shop, parts place and I'll never forget the parts guy face as Grandpa put the twisted shaft on the table and said "Apparently they to this just before breaking." The look of shock was awesome!

Long story short, we got the new PTO shaft and installed it. Pretty sure it's still on that tractor.

Anyhow, you might be surprised by what is covered by warranty. I broke a steering control arm because I put chains on the front and got it bound up in the loader bracket. Dealer warrantied the parts, I did the replacement only because I didnt want to wait for him to get to it. It was completely my fault, but dealer said the part shouldnt have failed. Who knows, maybe your stock PTO wasnt tempered enough and broke due to a manufacture defect. Maybe they wont actually care and just fix it, doing the right thing.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Yep, you don't have to tell them the whole story.... " I had the tiller going and "Bam!" ... broken shaft...

depends on the cost.... I would probably fix it if the parts weren't too expensive.