MT357H vs MT357HC

[PeteN]

I'm looking at possibly getting a MT357H (no cab) and haven't been able to see one in person. I have seen a cab'd model though. When I look through the brochure it indicates 2 notable differences other than the layout of the cab/non cab versions. It looks like there are 2 rear remotes on the ROPS model and 3 rear remotes on the cab model. Also, it looks like the Pedal Link is only on the cab model. Anyone have the ROPS model to verify?

 

[bmaverick]

Why not call Mitsubishi and ask ????

 

[Avenger]

I'm guessing he would call Mitsubishi if Mitsubishi had anything to do with LS, at all. Which, shocker alert, they dont. They did, for a while they made the engines for LS. But that was years ago. Thank you for your input.

To the OP, I'm sorry that I wont be able to answer your question as thoroughly as you'd might like. But I can tell you that having a cab is worth the little extra it will cost. Unless you have overhead clearance concerns, I'd spring the the cab.
The extra remote, if your tractor you decide to get only has two, and you need 3, then your dealer can add it. (or if your mechanically inclined, you can!). As for the Pedal Link feature, I'll have to let someone who has the MT3 ROPS address. My tractor predates those, and I have the shuttle shift anyway.

 

[PCABE5]

I have the linked pedal. Never had it on any other tractor before this one and I can say that for me, I have used it probably twice just trying it out. IMHO it's a novelty item, I prefer just using the throttle.

 

[bmaverick]

I'm guessing he would call Mitsubishi if Mitsubishi had anything to do with LS, at all. Which, shocker alert, they dont. They did, for a while they made the engines for LS. But that was years ago. Thank you for your input.

To the OP, I'm sorry that I wont be able to answer your question as thoroughly as you'd might like. But I can tell you that having a cab is worth the little extra it will cost. Unless you have overhead clearance concerns, I'd spring the the cab.
The extra remote, if your tractor you decide to get only has two, and you need 3, then your dealer can add it. (or if your mechanically inclined, you can!). As for the Pedal Link feature, I'll have to let someone who has the MT3 ROPS address. My tractor predates those, and I have the shuttle shift anyway.

I only replied because he said his MT tractor had issues. MT = Mitsubishi Tractor. It's been this way for 45 years. The MT25 up to the MT2350 are very popular machines.

 

[PeteN]

I'm guessing he would call Mitsubishi if Mitsubishi had anything to do with LS, at all. Which, shocker alert, they dont. They did, for a while they made the engines for LS. But that was years ago. Thank you for your input.

To the OP, I'm sorry that I wont be able to answer your question as thoroughly as you'd might like. But I can tell you that having a cab is worth the little extra it will cost. Unless you have overhead clearance concerns, I'd spring the the cab.
The extra remote, if your tractor you decide to get only has two, and you need 3, then your dealer can add it. (or if your mechanically inclined, you can!). As for the Pedal Link feature, I'll have to let someone who has the MT3 ROPS address. My tractor predates those, and I have the shuttle shift anyway.

OK, I did some more investigating and found out differing stories. Some ROPS models have been coming with 3 rear remotes, some with 2. 2 are enough for me. I'd rather have a 3rd function for the front which I will probably get right away. The more interesting thing I found was there are 2 different control methods on the HST. A standard HST have the pedals directly connected to the trans while a newer version S-HST (servo?HST) uses electronic controls to run the hydrostat (there's a decal on the hood noting this). Thus the standard HST is direct acting while the the S-HST is not. I noticed the effort on the pedals is much lighter on the S-HST. The mechanic at the dealership thought the standard HST was better since it more directly mimics your inputs. No one at the dealership could tell me definitively whether the ROPS model had the S-HST or not but I'm guessing it doesn't. This leads into the linked pedal option on the cab tractor only since you probably need the S-HST option for that to work. The Branson I looked at had something similar to this but it was mechanical in nature and not electronic. In regards to the cab, price is not the issue (reasonable $4000 upcharge) but getting around in the woods is. I don't do a lot of open field work but if I did I would definitely spring for it. Even though you can try to get on the tractor from the right side in the cab model, there is much more clearance on the ROPS model since the moved the loader control farther back on the fender. Can't do that on a Kubota MX6000. Thanks for the input.

 

[G31]

I have an MT347HC now. I had a 42H. Long story.

You hit everything right on. The S-HST is a different feel for sure. Sometimes it “jumps” when you push the pedal fast or really, really slow. With that said, you will not notice enough of a difference to make it an issue, and the jump is probably the servo activating. You can inch along at a snails pace or take off like a drag racer, just like any other tractor. You can just tell the pedal is different.

As you said, linked pedal is only available with S-HST. I find that it is nice to give the tractor extra power in low gear while using the loader, but not for much else. Transport speed with linked pedal is mostly useless, as the RPMs match the speed you want to go. With it off, you actually go faster because you can mash the pedal without increasing RPM. I do use linked pedal occasionally in speed range 2 when going back and forth over a small area. As soon as you touch the brake, linked pedal turns off. Kind of annoying.

The cab is worth every penny. If you decide linked pedal and S-HST are things you can live without, you will still be happy you got a cab, even in good weather. I ran my tiller on the 42H and it covered me in dirt from the dust cloud. I actually had to go get a mask to finish the job. No such issue with the cab. If you don’t have the AC recirculation on, you will smell the scents of cut grass, dirt, or whatever else you are working on. The downside is you lose some visibility and won’t be able to drive the cab into thick growth without a lot of care. Low trees will need to be trimmed up. Your best bet is to give a few feet more space around trees than you would have with a ROPS model. The cab models now only have 2 remotes.

 

[PeteN]

I have an MT347HC now. I had a 42H. Long story.

You hit everything right on. The S-HST is a different feel for sure. Sometimes it “jumps” when you push the pedal fast or really, really slow. With that said, you will not notice enough of a difference to make it an issue, and the jump is probably the servo activating. You can inch along at a snails pace or take off like a drag racer, just like any other tractor. You can just tell the pedal is different.

As you said, linked pedal is only available with S-HST. I find that it is nice to give the tractor extra power in low gear while using the loader, but not for much else. Transport speed with linked pedal is mostly useless, as the RPMs match the speed you want to go. With it off, you actually go faster because you can mash the pedal without increasing RPM. I do use linked pedal occasionally in speed range 2 when going back and forth over a small area. As soon as you touch the brake, linked pedal turns off. Kind of annoying.

The cab is worth every penny. If you decide linked pedal and S-HST are things you can live without, you will still be happy you got a cab, even in good weather. I ran my tiller on the 42H and it covered me in dirt from the dust cloud. I actually had to go get a mask to finish the job. No such issue with the cab. If you don’t have the AC recirculation on, you will smell the scents of cut grass, dirt, or whatever else you are working on. The downside is you lose some visibility and won’t be able to drive the cab into thick growth without a lot of care. Low trees will need to be trimmed up. Your best bet is to give a few feet more space around trees than you would have with a ROPS model. The cab models now only have 2 remotes.

Good information confirming what I had found out. In regards to the HST pedal feel, the S-HST has a softer "touch" than the standard HST. I'd get used to either. Wonder why they didn't put it on the non-cab models.

I would get a cab (not that much more compared to other tractors) but I want to use the tractor out in the woods and would not be on finished trails at times. I need to get back into the woods where I dropped a tree. I'd have to cut a lot down in order to do that. Another negative I think about is to constantly have to open and close doors when I'm getting in and out of the cab to move things around. Can you easily remove the doors on the cab? I also like the ability to get on either side of the tractor which is much easier on the non-cab version since they moved the FEL control back farther on the fender. Presently I use a Polaris Ranger to get into my tight spots but I'd like to use a tractor to get the large chunks of wood (or logs). I'm not getting any stronger as I get older. On the Ranger I remove the doors and can jump in from either side since it has a bench seat.

Are there any good soft cabs for LS tractors in case I want to do some winter work?

 

[Avenger]

I would get a cab (not that much more compared to other tractors) but I want to use the tractor out in the woods and would not be on finished trails at times. I need to get back into the woods where I dropped a tree. I'd have to cut a lot down in order to do that. Another negative I think about is to constantly have to open and close doors when I'm getting in and out of the cab to move things around.

Not trying to change your mind here. You get what you feel you need, its your money. However...

When I was looking to buy a tractor I figured it was A)too expensive to get a tractor with a cab, and B) since I live in the forest and will be using the tractor to move logs, firewood, brush, etc on steep hill sides, that a cab would limit the clearance, limbs would break the glass, doors would get broken, the tractors center of gravity would be too high, etc.

When I decided to pull the trigger, I went into the dealership with my wife. Sat down and started figuring out which tractor was right for me. I already knew what tractor I wanted, an LS XR4145 open station for the reasons above. The dealer asked "cab or no cab?" to which I said no cab.
"Why?"
"The reasons mentioned above."
He said the price difference which solved issue A. The center of gravity is a non-issue as well since they are about the same, and "I'd probably chicken out long before the tractor tips anyway." He was absolutely right about that. He has only replaced one door on any cab tractor, and that is because an owner got lazy and didnt close it before driving through a gate.

I took the risk and bought the cab model. I have done some serious forestry with this tractor. The cab actually protects me from limbs as I drive though the forest. The limbs simply bend or break out of the way. There have been two break downs because of using this tractor in the forest: 1) I was turning sharp while wearing chains when out mowing down thick brush in the forest. The chains bound up in the loader brackets and broke a control arm. Simple warranty repair. 2) while clearing some brush a stick jumped up and poked a small hole in my fuel line. The hole didnt leak fuel, but did suck air. Both issues were not caused by the cab.

I do it all with my tractor. I have a backhoe, where I dig stumps, trenches, etc. Getting off and on the backhoe with a cab kinda does suck. But not horribly bad. Gives me a second or two to stretch my legs, stand up for a second. I plow, cultivate, seed, and mow large fields. With the cab, is easy. Listen to music, air conditioning, much less dust, no bugs, it's enjoyable. In the winter, I plow a long driveway. I just ordered a snow blower. I wouldn't want to have an open station tractor with one. There have been mornings I've plowed the driveway in gym shorts, a tee shirt, and flip flops. Heat is a godsend with it's 9 degrees out and blowing snow. And then I go logging or clearing brush in the forest. Burning slash piles, etc. The cab is actually a nice reprieve from the bugs and the heat, if only for a few minutes. While burning, I dont worry about smoke or ash, or even rain (I burn in the winter).

Some of the things about having a cab, that you mentioned, are negatives. There is a clearance issue. You cannot fold down a cab to park in a shop or garage. The right side door for entry, while doable (if your skinny) is not ideal. Open and closing doors can be a pain, and I get why the guy broke his while driving through a gate. I get lazy sometimes too and simply leave it open while driving down the driveway or whatever. But in general, its not much to open and close them.

Just things to consider for what's its worth. Like I stated above, you got to get what you feel is correct for you. I was in the same mindset, but took a chance, and was pleasantly surprised.

 

[PeteN]

Not trying to change your mind here. You get what you feel you need, its your money. However...

When I was looking to buy a tractor I figured it was A)too expensive to get a tractor with a cab, and B) since I live in the forest and will be using the tractor to move logs, firewood, brush, etc on steep hill sides, that a cab would limit the clearance, limbs would break the glass, doors would get broken, the tractors center of gravity would be too high, etc.

When I decided to pull the trigger, I went into the dealership with my wife. Sat down and started figuring out which tractor was right for me. I already knew what tractor I wanted, an LS XR4145 open station for the reasons above. The dealer asked "cab or no cab?" to which I said no cab.
"Why?"
"The reasons mentioned above."
He said the price difference which solved issue A. The center of gravity is a non-issue as well since they are about the same, and "I'd probably chicken out long before the tractor tips anyway." He was absolutely right about that. He has only replaced one door on any cab tractor, and that is because an owner got lazy and didnt close it before driving through a gate.

I took the risk and bought the cab model. I have done some serious forestry with this tractor. The cab actually protects me from limbs as I drive though the forest. The limbs simply bend or break out of the way. There have been two break downs because of using this tractor in the forest: 1) I was turning sharp while wearing chains when out mowing down thick brush in the forest. The chains bound up in the loader brackets and broke a control arm. Simple warranty repair. 2) while clearing some brush a stick jumped up and poked a small hole in my fuel line. The hole didnt leak fuel, but did suck air. Both issues were not caused by the cab.

I do it all with my tractor. I have a backhoe, where I dig stumps, trenches, etc. Getting off and on the backhoe with a cab kinda does suck. But not horribly bad. Gives me a second or two to stretch my legs, stand up for a second. I plow, cultivate, seed, and mow large fields. With the cab, is easy. Listen to music, air conditioning, much less dust, no bugs, it's enjoyable. In the winter, I plow a long driveway. I just ordered a snow blower. I wouldn't want to have an open station tractor with one. There have been mornings I've plowed the driveway in gym shorts, a tee shirt, and flip flops. Heat is a godsend with it's 9 degrees out and blowing snow. And then I go logging or clearing brush in the forest. Burning slash piles, etc. The cab is actually a nice reprieve from the bugs and the heat, if only for a few minutes. While burning, I dont worry about smoke or ash, or even rain (I burn in the winter).

Some of the things about having a cab, that you mentioned, are negatives. There is a clearance issue. You cannot fold down a cab to park in a shop or garage. The right side door for entry, while doable (if your skinny) is not ideal. Open and closing doors can be a pain, and I get why the guy broke his while driving through a gate. I get lazy sometimes too and simply leave it open while driving down the driveway or whatever. But in general, its not much to open and close them.

Just things to consider for what's its worth. Like I stated above, you got to get what you feel is correct for you. I was in the same mindset, but took a chance, and was pleasantly surprised.

Thanks for the valuable input. Never had a cabbed tractor so I'm just going by what I've experienced. When you are driving through tight areas and the branches are scrubbing on the side of the cab, doesn't it mark up the windows? I assume that all panels are glass - is that correct? I don't have many manicured trails to drive on and have been using a Polaris Ranger to get around in the woods which is much lower in height. I've got all kinds of witness marks on my Ranger cab from tree branches and it was the reason I went with a steel cab instead of plastic. You've got me thinking a little harder on the cab and like you stated, the LS cabs are not that much money compared to other makes and you get a few extra features besides the cab compared to the ROPS model. Just out of curiosity, is it a simple process of removing a couple of hinge pins to remove the doors? Another questions comes to mind with the cab. How good is the visibility in a upward plane when using, let's say forks on the front, to put an item into a position on pallet racking? Or is it so far forward that this is not an issue?

 

[PCABE5]

Just out of curiosity, is it a simple process of removing a couple of hinge pins to remove the doors?

Yes. It's a two person job though.

A few cons to doing that would be storage of the doors, don't run your HVAC with the doors off, and you're back to filling the cab with dust.

 

[Cycledude]

When driving through the woods or brush the biggest worry for me is the mirrors, lights and windshield wipers, fortunately so far I haven’t managed to damage anything.
Another big worry in the woods-brush is possible damage to the undercarriage hoses filters and who knows what else , because of that possibility I have a skid plate mounted to the loader frame to hopefully protect some of that stuff

 

[GSVette]

I would echo what Avenger has said about his cab. I have the 4155HC and my property ( which isn’t all that far from Avengers) is wooded and hilly. I bash through the limbs pretty frequently when mowing and have yet to scratch/damage a window. I have more than a few scratches on the hood and a few on the mirrors but it is a working tractor after all.

I wouldn’t be without a cab for anything. Keeping the dust, grit and pollen out when mowing is just one of the great benefits-watching a swarm of bald face hornets beat themselves silly on the windshield glass after you disturbed a nest is probably the greatest .

I have been limbing (and chipping) the pines in the areas I mow most frequently-not so much to protect the tractor as to reduce my mowing time and make the mowing job look more ‘finished’

You’ll likely never regret a cab. At least for me it makes getting in/out easier as I have more ‘grab rails’- with my crappy knees, it is nice to have the additional grab points when getting in or out.

 

[Avenger]

PeteN,
I made a quick video last night, hopefully answering some of your questions about the cab. Also, take a spin though the rest of my content to get a better idea on how I use (abuse?) my tractor living and working in the woods. Let me know if you have any questions.

 

[PeteN]

PeteN,
I made a quick video last night, hopefully answering some of your questions about the cab. Also, take a spin though the rest of my content to get a better idea on how I use (abuse?) my tractor living and working in the woods. Let me know if you have any questions.

Thanks for the video. It did answer some of my questions. Your trees are a little "softer" than mine since I have have no conifers, just oaks, elms, maples and what is left of the ash trees. I'm off to the dealer tomorrow - he's got a cab and ROPs model to test drive. Your messages have helped me feel less leery of a cab since I originally believed I should get a ROPS. Another decision to make. I thought the R1 vs R4 tire decision was my last one.

 

[PeteN]

I went to the dealer today and drove a MT347H ROPS and MT357H cab model. I originally was on the ROPs path since some of my plans have involved work deep in a WI woods. I also do a lot of pasture cutting with a bush hog so that is also on my decision path. Unfortunately I really liked both. The HST on the 357H (S-HST) was smoother but the 347H was still very good with the most notable difference being in 3rd gear with the standard HST requiring more force on the pedals. Not that big of a deal. I didn't think I would like the cab but visibility is very good but you can't beat a tractor with no cab. As I expected, when the loader (or forks) was lifted to its highest point the non-cab version wins. In regards to sound quality, the non cab version was not objectionable compared to the cab. Actually the cab version "drummed" more between 1500 and 2000 rpm but at PTO speed the cab version was definitely the winner. I thought I had turned on the AC in the cab but only turned on the fan. You'll cook in the cab without AC (dealer pointed out that I didn't have the AC engaged during the test drive). Tried out the other features of the cab vs non-cab models (e.g Pedal Link) and like some have stated those features are not that big of a deal. I did a lot of measurements and the one thing that stood out vs other manufacturers is the loader lift height. If you have forks on the front don't expect any more than 84" of lift height. I have pallet racking in my shed so that is a consideration. Also the full dump height at the bottom of the bucket is lower than other competitive models. This may be a consideration when buying an LS tractor. Note that the ROPS when it is up is actually taller than the cab. Still can't get the cab in my 84" garage door (Cab is 90" high) but the ROPs can be folded down to fit . Good thing I have a 120" door on my shed.

Bottom line for me is that either would work but I'm tending to drift towards the cab model (thanks Avenger) only because of slightly cool winters in WI. I might actually use a tractor during the winter! Also, it is the only MT357 version available. Bad news is that prices have gone up significantly since Oct 1. At least $2000. Ridiculous. Dealer has bumped the prices I was quoted a week ago. I'll have a discussion with the dealer next week on buy or not next week. I'm not in a need to have basis so we'll see what happens. Still have the Kubota & Branson options available.

Update; Dealer is sticking with the price increase which has come down from LS and blame it on an increase in shipping costs (they are stating shipping container costs have gone up by 4X). Any tractor delivered after Oct 1 is stuck with some sort of surcharge. The tractor I was looking at was put together and ordered before Oct 1 but they are going on when it was delivered to the dealer. Could have save a few thousand if I had ordered earlier. Now I can save $35k+ unless I buy an orange tractor.

 

[PCABE5]

Loader lift height is less than the competition. Same frame size in the JD 4R, Massey 2860M, Kubota L60 all have 10-12 inches more lift than LS. The competition also has longer reach on their loader. If you need to lift items more than 7 feet you're going to have to go with a different brand. That's about the only thing I don't care for on my MT357.

Tell your dealer you want the New Holland loader.

Edit:. 4106 loader height with bucket level is 83" the competition is 84" with bucket dumped and that makes the lift height difference closer to 20".

 

[PeteN]

Forgot to mention a little trouble I had with the cab model. Jumped in, started it up, and turned on the AC knobs since it was a little warm outside and hot inside the cab. Drove around and it didn't seem to get any cooler inside, in fact, when I popped open the windows it was cooler outside. Finished my test drive and was building up a good sweat when the dealer asked how it was going. I told him I didn't think the AC worked. First thing he asked was did I turn it on. Thought I did but then he mentioned I had to push the button in to turn it on. Ahh, there's the coolness. I think I fooled around with every other button on the tractor though.

Still not sure on the cab in my woods (dealer didn't recommend the cab if most of my use was in the woods) so today I'm going to drive around where I need to get to with my JD 2020 with some posts attached to the fenders mimicking the height of the cab. I think that will tell me how much trimming I would need to do if I got the cab model. The 2020 is actually wider and longer so, if it fits, the 357 shouldn't be a problem. Update: Did my drive through with the upright poles on my JD2020 mimicking a cab and didn't have any serious problems. The limbs I did hit needed to be trimmed anyway. I had more issues with the length of the tractor with the loader installed. Rarely have the FEL on this tractor so it is something to get used to. Must be fun with an FEL and backhoe.

Another thing I noted that was different cab vs ROPs was the cab model had a cloth seat vs. vinyl on the ROPS. Not sure why you would want a cloth seat on something that you're bound to get dirty with.

 

[PeteN]

Thanks for the valuable input. Never had a cabbed tractor so I'm just going by what I've experienced. When you are driving through tight areas and the branches are scrubbing on the side of the cab, doesn't it mark up the windows? I assume that all panels are glass - is that correct? I don't have many manicured trails to drive on and have been using a Polaris Ranger to get around in the woods which is much lower in height. I've got all kinds of witness marks on my Ranger cab from tree branches and it was the reason I went with a steel cab instead of plastic. You've got me thinking a little harder on the cab and like you stated, the LS cabs are not that much money compared to other makes and you get a few extra features besides the cab compared to the ROPS model. Just out of curiosity, is it a simple process of removing a couple of hinge pins to remove the doors? Another questions comes to mind with the cab. How good is the visibility in a upward plane when using, let's say forks on the front, to put an item into a position on pallet racking? Or is it so far forward that this is not an issue?

I did end up buying the cab LS MT357HC model a few weeks ago. Pretty much as expected since I've been mulling this over for months. Did some branch trimming so that is not as much of a problem as I thought with the cab height. 4WD is awesome. The R4s get better traction than I thought they would but I do note that this tractor is a rougher ride than I have with the 2WD JD 2020 with ag tires. May play around with tire pressures to see if that has any effect. Thanks for all the comments - they were very helpful. Now on to the implements to give this tractor more tasks to perform.

 

[Cycledude]

Congratulations on the Brandnew tractor !