Muddy Path

Harv · Nov 26, 2000

Well, we've had some first tastes of winter out here in California -- even had to put on a long-sleeve shirt. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Had some good rain and even a little snow in the foothills where my tractor lives, and my culverts and "tractor path" are facing their first test against the elements. The three culverts are doing fine so far, but I still fear that when the real rains come they may not fare so well. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

My immediate problem, however, is with the path itself. There is a 100-foot stretch that has gone muddy already, and, just my luck, it's right after the first culvert. If it gets any worse, the last two culverts may be for naught 'cuz I won't be able to get the tractor to them.

So here's the question for you folks with the long driveways I've been reading about on this board -- is it feasible, or even possible, to turn muddy ground into something drivable by dumping enough gravel on it? If so, what kind of gravel and how much? Or is it a matter of just building it up until it stops disappearing into the mire?

I've attached a picture of the muddy stretch, if that helps.

Anonymous Poster · Nov 27, 2000

Depends on your budget and what kind of load you are going to be put on it and how often. If it's real bad and you are going to be driving a car on it you start with rip-rap (spelled and pronounced multiple ways!) basically 4-6" roughly rectangular rock and get smaller from there. All rock is expensive, on my tractor only roads I dig a ditch down both sides, sometimes a foot deep and 6 foot wide or so, use that dirt to pile on the road, after it dries out is useable for the tractor but in wet times has to be back drug to keep it tolerable. Actually some of the worst dirt (clay etc) has made a very durable road for the tractor hauling a load of logs. That was with my AG tired Ford, the R-4s are even more forgiving. It is important to have ditches down the side or have the grade lower to reduce the water table under the road. Also sloping or crowning the road or trail helps too. Or maybe you have a bank you can dig into for material?

dig on!

Thomas · Nov 27, 2000

Harv,
First of all wait until the ground drys out.
Then I would scape out a ditch line on both sides of the road about 8 inches deep,maybe take that dirt and crown it towards the middle,than keep traveling over it until pack.
Not sure what kind of stone you can purchase,but like Del wrote a good size stone about 3 to 4 inches deep where your tires travel,than your road should stay high and dry.

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Von · Nov 27, 2000

Harv,
If the ground is real soft you will need to put down some barrier fabric first to stop the mud from pumping up thru the stone or rock that you put down. Without the fabric, you will be wasting your money on the stone. Around here they lay the fabric down in swamps and then backfill with rock for roads. The cost is not too bad for the fabric. Ask your local highway dept. where they get it from.

Von

DVerbarg · Nov 27, 2000

Harv,

Had a similiar problem and my "locals" told me to dig out the black dirt (about 8 inches), use the 3-4 inch stone on top of the clay about 6 inches deep, and then use the crushed limestone with fines for a top coat of 3-4 inches. Works great. Be sure to sure to "berm" the path to force the water away.

DaveV

RobS · Nov 27, 2000

Harv, around here it's common to peel back the topsoil about double the desired width of your road/path. Then bring sub-soil from the edges into the roadway. This raises the roadway and creates drainages on each side. Final step is to regrade the piled topsoil into the drainages on each side. It's generally a dozer project, but could potentially be done with a compact and a bit more time. Hope this helps,

Rob

JerryG · Nov 27, 2000

Harv,
What ever you do make sure that you provide plenty of side ditch drainage. If you don’t, know matter how much rock you put in it will come back on you. The surface water has to be removed. If you can remove the topsoil that has the organic material in it you will be better off. I have about 75-80 18-wheelers at 80,000 pounds on my farm a year. The roads that they travel on I have make. They have never had a problem. All that I have done is get rid of the top few inches of topsoil , make GOOD drainage ditches and put on gravel.
JerryG

Anonymous Poster · Nov 27, 2000

I'd agree on removing the topsoil if it is going to be a heavily traveled road, if it's just you it will probably be OK without the effort, which depending on the length of the road could be a lot with your tractor. Some topsoil doesn't have much organic content.

I have some property far away from any gravel source. Where I needed a road for my jeep and tractor had 3 feet of black goo that swallowed up most anything that ventured in.

I made a road like they did in Alaska, a "corduroy" road or "punk" road. Cut down a bunch of alder trees (weeds here), put all the branches and brush down first, then the logs, and cut into a bank for sand dirt and buried it all. Dug 3 foot deep ditches on both sides, even piled the goopy dirt on the road, it all dried out and so far not even any ruts in the rainy season, probably due to the sandy dirt on top. Has been about 8 years and no signs of sinkage. I wouldn't run a cement truck over it though!

And the fabric idea was great using big rock over mud, you need to help your rocks "float" on the mud and that will do it. Again, it depends on your use and amount of traffic. It doesn't take much to make a road your tractor can use.

dig on...

RobertN · Nov 27, 2000

Harv,
I agree with a couple of the other posts. Work your drainage issues first. Then, think about how you want to cover the road.

When I had our road fixed a couple years ago, the road company worked hardest on improving the drainage. We have 1500' of road that is shared by six neighbors. In the worst area, I thought the damage was because the road curved while going up hill, just inviting people to spin thier tires even without trying.

The Road company said all of our problems were caused by lack of drainage; even with just gravel, our road would do fine with the right drainage. They did as much work putting in ditches as they did in actual road bed work.

We did a double chip seal too. Since then, we have had very little water on the road. The ditches direct everything away. Even with the chipseal, erosion can occur if drainage isn't good.

The other thing that can make a difference, is to roll the gravel when it is applied. we did this on our driveway; I've had to do minimal maintance since then. Oh, they cut ditches when they did it too(had road company regrade, ditch and gravel our drive, pre tractor...)

RobertN in Shingle Springs Calif