Muffler Replacement

   / Muffler Replacement #1  

BB_TX

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2002
Messages
1,939
Location
Home-1+ acres New Hope, TX / 24 acres-Fannin Count
Tractor
JD 950
My tractor is 20 years old. The muffler has about had it. I have put off trying to replace it so far but it is getting louder and the insides are starting to rattle. The problem is that the heads of the bolts have rusted to the point that they are almost round. I don't think they are going to back out with a wrench or socket. Likewise the bolts that hold the manifold to the engine are similarly rusted. I am afraid when I start this project, it is going to turn into a significant effort. I suspect I will either end up breaking the heads off or having to grind them off. My concern is in getting the remaining studs out of the manifold and/or engine. Anyone been thru this before?
 
   / Muffler Replacement #2  
Do you have enough solid pipe left that you can make a cut without disturbing the manifold or bolts? You can then swage the pipe and make a coupling installing the new muffler without too much hassle.
 
   / Muffler Replacement #3  
This is a problem I'm sure every mechanic, both pro and shadetree, runs into. I would start by soaking them in "PB Blaster", "Liquid Wrench", etc. Try the wrench, vice grip, pipe wrench, hammer and punch, or whatever you can get on it with. If it breaks off, drill a hole and drive, or lefthand screw in an "easy out". If no-go, you will have to drill out and re-tap threads for a new bolt or stud. Nothing to do but to get after it.
 
   / Muffler Replacement #4  
There are stud remover sockets out there that might fit over the rounded bolt heads and work for you. The soaking over a period of time with PB blaster will no doubt be required as well. Good luck.
 
   / Muffler Replacement #5  
When I get a bolt or stud problem like this I usually heat it with a propane torch. When I take a away the torch, I then spray it with the liquid wrench or what ever. As it cools it seems to draw in the liquid. I do it several times. Tapping the stud when hot and also while cooling also tends to break the rust free. Also definately give the liquid wrench time to work. After these steps the tools mentioned about should be able to get it out. Sometimes I use a small grinder to make a couple of flat spots on the bolt head so that a pair of vice grips can grab it.
Good luck

Andy
 
   / Muffler Replacement #6  
PB Blaster works the best as far as penatrating products go.
 
   / Muffler Replacement #7  
Actually, Kroil works best . Can't get it in stores, it's order only from Kato Labs. (everyone has an opinion on this....this is only my experience.)

Bill in CO
 
   / Muffler Replacement #8  
I second the "Kroil". You can get it from Midway Reloading Supplies (www.midwayusa.com) and Brownells (www.brownells.com). It also works well for cleaning gun barrels.
 
   / Muffler Replacement #9  
Hi
I have had success removing a stud by placing a hex nut over the stud and welding it to the stud then using heat as im using a wrench to remove the stud. A stick welder works best to weld inside the nut. good luck which ever method you use.

Charlie.
 
   / Muffler Replacement #10  
By the time ya get the welder out, get the heat going, you could have gotten it out with these at Sears
 

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