Muffler Replacement

[BB_TX]

My tractor is 20 years old. The muffler has about had it. I have put off trying to replace it so far but it is getting louder and the insides are starting to rattle. The problem is that the heads of the bolts have rusted to the point that they are almost round. I don't think they are going to back out with a wrench or socket. Likewise the bolts that hold the manifold to the engine are similarly rusted. I am afraid when I start this project, it is going to turn into a significant effort. I suspect I will either end up breaking the heads off or having to grind them off. My concern is in getting the remaining studs out of the manifold and/or engine. Anyone been thru this before?

 

[PineRidge]

Do you have enough solid pipe left that you can make a cut without disturbing the manifold or bolts? You can then swage the pipe and make a coupling installing the new muffler without too much hassle.

 

[normde2001]

This is a problem I'm sure every mechanic, both pro and shadetree, runs into. I would start by soaking them in "PB Blaster", "Liquid Wrench", etc. Try the wrench, vice grip, pipe wrench, hammer and punch, or whatever you can get on it with. If it breaks off, drill a hole and drive, or lefthand screw in an "easy out". If no-go, you will have to drill out and re-tap threads for a new bolt or stud. Nothing to do but to get after it.

 

[slowrev]

There are stud remover sockets out there that might fit over the rounded bolt heads and work for you. The soaking over a period of time with PB blaster will no doubt be required as well. Good luck.

 

[AndyMA]

When I get a bolt or stud problem like this I usually heat it with a propane torch. When I take a away the torch, I then spray it with the liquid wrench or what ever. As it cools it seems to draw in the liquid. I do it several times. Tapping the stud when hot and also while cooling also tends to break the rust free. Also definately give the liquid wrench time to work. After these steps the tools mentioned about should be able to get it out. Sometimes I use a small grinder to make a couple of flat spots on the bolt head so that a pair of vice grips can grab it.
Good luck

Andy

 

[jrlichina]

PB Blaster works the best as far as penatrating products go.

 

[larso1]

Actually, Kroil works best . Can't get it in stores, it's order only from Kato Labs. (everyone has an opinion on this....this is only my experience.)

Bill in CO

 

[gsganzer]

I second the "Kroil". You can get it from Midway Reloading Supplies (www.midwayusa.com) and Brownells (www.brownells.com). It also works well for cleaning gun barrels.

 

[Lazy]

Hi
I have had success removing a stud by placing a hex nut over the stud and welding it to the stud then using heat as im using a wrench to remove the stud. A stick welder works best to weld inside the nut. good luck which ever method you use.

Charlie.

 

[Inspector507]

By the time ya get the welder out, get the heat going, you could have gotten it out with these at Sears

 

[Lazy]

Hi
those will work if the stud is long enough and in good shape. But with the nut and welder I have removed stud that were twisted off even with what ever they were screwed into like an engine block. I have a set of those extractors and they work for the easy stuff. I guess its whatever works best with the tools you have to work with.
charlie

 

[Deerlope]

I got to go along with PineRidge. If there is enought good pipe left, and you only need about 2". you can get a band clamp from NAPA. Slip the new pipe over the old and use a stainless steel band clamp. they do not cost a lot and work great.

 

[BillyP]

I bought a set of those. I haven't had the misfortune of using them yet though.

 

[Inspector507]

I got a set for Christmas in '02.........haven't need them just yet........but if I do /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif