ponytug
Super Member
The following is written up for the Deutz engine, but should be easy to follow for any of the gasoline engines, with the substitution of the higher temperature heat shield.
Here is what I used;
I bought this muffler wrap which would do the outside of the muffler, but covering the ends would get complicated, as the pieces are a bit smaller;
Basically the end pieces would be separate, at least for the BF3L2011 Deutz.
The insulation and metal over wrap come as separate pieces which does make the assembly a little easier.
I ended up using this version from Design Engineering products;
Muffler Shield Kit (good to 700F)
The also make a different version for higher temperatures (1400F) I would recommend this version for the gasoline engines.
www.designengineering.com
I bought also bought some 42" stainless zip ties from Amazon, as I was sure that I would break some of the ones in the kit. I did break one of the DEI ties using their included tool, and did the rest by hand, using the method from the video below. I used one 2.5" diameter hose clamp to hold some of the insulation to the exhaust tailpipe.
You will need cardboard and a marker to make the template, plus tin snips or heavy duty EMT type shears to cut the material, and a pair of pliers and a screwdriver to tighten the stainless zip ties (there are good YouTube videos on that part). I also highly recommend several tie down straps, or bungee cords, or ropes tied with an adjustable rigging knots.
I started by measuring the muffler circumference and length to get the minimum size that is needed. I choose to cover the ends as well, and that makes things more difficult because the Deutz muffler is elliptical, and each cylinder feeds directly in. So it is like a clock; you need to decided that the cylinder exhaust ports are at, say "2 o'clock", with the seam there, and then keep track of where that seam is relative the the ovals that you need to cut to cover the ends. I left the main muffler wrap about 3/4" long at both ends to be able to cut short (3/4") cuts along the edge to make easy to fold over tabs to hold the end pieces in place. I left extra on the exhaust end to be able to bend some up the exhaust pipe, where it could be clamped in place by a hose clamp or stainless tie.
I highly recommend getting a couple large sheets of cardboard to try wrapping your muffler, and sorting out how you want to handle a) the overlap of the two ends on the circumference, and b) the end pieces, one of which has an exhaust stub coming out of it. I used a 3/4" extra around the muffler, and about 3" extra to come up the exhaust tip.
Basically measure twice, cut once.
I choose to have the start/end at the cylinder exhaust tubes, with about two inches of overlap. In hindsight, I think a four inch overlap might have been better. I also choose to have the two flaps cover the ends of the muffler stay attached as I was concerned that they might come loose over time otherwise. I wasn't sure that I could effectively zip tie them in place. I have never been great at tying rope or cable around round objects other than pipes. YMMV. Your choice. Leaving them loose makes the cutting and installation easier; I would just have a solid plan for how you are going to keep them in place. A good AC aluminum TIG/MIG welder could probably tack them in place beautifully, but I don't have a welder that does aluminum well. When you are happy with your template, transfer it to the heat shield material, adding any extra for the tabs to fold over. Once you have that done, cut the material.
For the next step, I strongly suggest disconnecting the battery, as you will be maneuvering a piece of conductive aluminum directly over the unfused starter connections. I also suggest loosening the air filter and pivoting up out of the way, or removing it entirely. Don't forget to plug the intake if you do. I also loosened the rather ineffective Deutz air filter heatshield to get it out of the way as I found that corner the most difficult to maneuver into place.
Now, rough the insulation into place. I found it to be a sequential tight here, tighten there, slowly working the piece between the exhaust ports and into the correct "o'clock" position. Once you have it lined up, put your first strap around the middle and tighten it slowly, pulling the outer overlapping section over the inner side, and work the excess material around from the inner side, around the muffler, trying to get it flat against the muffler all the way around. Having an extra pair of hands for this bit makes it ten times easier, as one person can apply tension to the two ends, while the other works the material around until it is tight. Once that is in place, tighten the first strap some more. FWIW:I put some cardboard under the buckles on my straps to keep them from denting the relatively soft aluminum. Work outward from the first strap, getting all of the material tight against the muffler. Then go back to make sure that everything is still tight and in place. I used a strap between each exhaust port, and one more on each end. Once everything is tight, I bent over the extra 3/4" material around the edges, tapping it in place with a rubber dead low hammer to get the tabs tight against the end flaps. (Or weld them, if that's the route you went.)
I then fastened the exhaust tip material first, as it helps lock the end pieces in place.
With everything in the right place, I first brought a zip tie around the center and tightened it up as tight as I could get it. I really like this video explanation of how to get the stainless steel tie tight without breaking anything;
With the center zip tie in place, I sequentially moved left / right outward installing the remaining ties.
Once everything is tied in place, reattach the Deutz heat shield and air filter, and reconnect the battery cable(s).
I found getting the insulation in between the exhaust ports and especially behind the front air filter the most fiddly part.
All the best,
Peter
Here is what I used;
I bought this muffler wrap which would do the outside of the muffler, but covering the ends would get complicated, as the pieces are a bit smaller;
Basically the end pieces would be separate, at least for the BF3L2011 Deutz.
The insulation and metal over wrap come as separate pieces which does make the assembly a little easier.
I ended up using this version from Design Engineering products;
Muffler Shield Kit (good to 700F)
The also make a different version for higher temperatures (1400F) I would recommend this version for the gasoline engines.
Form-A-Shield™ - 21" x 48"
Capable of withstanding direct heat of up to 1400°F+, non-adhesive Form-A-Shield can be affixed directly to exhaust headers, manifolds, turbo housings, and downpipes dramatically reducing radiant exhaust temperatures.
www.designengineering.com
I bought also bought some 42" stainless zip ties from Amazon, as I was sure that I would break some of the ones in the kit. I did break one of the DEI ties using their included tool, and did the rest by hand, using the method from the video below. I used one 2.5" diameter hose clamp to hold some of the insulation to the exhaust tailpipe.
You will need cardboard and a marker to make the template, plus tin snips or heavy duty EMT type shears to cut the material, and a pair of pliers and a screwdriver to tighten the stainless zip ties (there are good YouTube videos on that part). I also highly recommend several tie down straps, or bungee cords, or ropes tied with an adjustable rigging knots.
I started by measuring the muffler circumference and length to get the minimum size that is needed. I choose to cover the ends as well, and that makes things more difficult because the Deutz muffler is elliptical, and each cylinder feeds directly in. So it is like a clock; you need to decided that the cylinder exhaust ports are at, say "2 o'clock", with the seam there, and then keep track of where that seam is relative the the ovals that you need to cut to cover the ends. I left the main muffler wrap about 3/4" long at both ends to be able to cut short (3/4") cuts along the edge to make easy to fold over tabs to hold the end pieces in place. I left extra on the exhaust end to be able to bend some up the exhaust pipe, where it could be clamped in place by a hose clamp or stainless tie.
I highly recommend getting a couple large sheets of cardboard to try wrapping your muffler, and sorting out how you want to handle a) the overlap of the two ends on the circumference, and b) the end pieces, one of which has an exhaust stub coming out of it. I used a 3/4" extra around the muffler, and about 3" extra to come up the exhaust tip.
Basically measure twice, cut once.
I choose to have the start/end at the cylinder exhaust tubes, with about two inches of overlap. In hindsight, I think a four inch overlap might have been better. I also choose to have the two flaps cover the ends of the muffler stay attached as I was concerned that they might come loose over time otherwise. I wasn't sure that I could effectively zip tie them in place. I have never been great at tying rope or cable around round objects other than pipes. YMMV. Your choice. Leaving them loose makes the cutting and installation easier; I would just have a solid plan for how you are going to keep them in place. A good AC aluminum TIG/MIG welder could probably tack them in place beautifully, but I don't have a welder that does aluminum well. When you are happy with your template, transfer it to the heat shield material, adding any extra for the tabs to fold over. Once you have that done, cut the material.
For the next step, I strongly suggest disconnecting the battery, as you will be maneuvering a piece of conductive aluminum directly over the unfused starter connections. I also suggest loosening the air filter and pivoting up out of the way, or removing it entirely. Don't forget to plug the intake if you do. I also loosened the rather ineffective Deutz air filter heatshield to get it out of the way as I found that corner the most difficult to maneuver into place.
Now, rough the insulation into place. I found it to be a sequential tight here, tighten there, slowly working the piece between the exhaust ports and into the correct "o'clock" position. Once you have it lined up, put your first strap around the middle and tighten it slowly, pulling the outer overlapping section over the inner side, and work the excess material around from the inner side, around the muffler, trying to get it flat against the muffler all the way around. Having an extra pair of hands for this bit makes it ten times easier, as one person can apply tension to the two ends, while the other works the material around until it is tight. Once that is in place, tighten the first strap some more. FWIW:I put some cardboard under the buckles on my straps to keep them from denting the relatively soft aluminum. Work outward from the first strap, getting all of the material tight against the muffler. Then go back to make sure that everything is still tight and in place. I used a strap between each exhaust port, and one more on each end. Once everything is tight, I bent over the extra 3/4" material around the edges, tapping it in place with a rubber dead low hammer to get the tabs tight against the end flaps. (Or weld them, if that's the route you went.)
I then fastened the exhaust tip material first, as it helps lock the end pieces in place.
With everything in the right place, I first brought a zip tie around the center and tightened it up as tight as I could get it. I really like this video explanation of how to get the stainless steel tie tight without breaking anything;
With the center zip tie in place, I sequentially moved left / right outward installing the remaining ties.
Once everything is tied in place, reattach the Deutz heat shield and air filter, and reconnect the battery cable(s).
I found getting the insulation in between the exhaust ports and especially behind the front air filter the most fiddly part.
All the best,
Peter
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