Multi use tool bar-hiller, cultivator,

[paulsharvey]

Might be wrong place, didn't see a 'garden' topic. I know 'someone' used to make/sell a 3 point cat-1 tool bar, that had interchangeable hilling disks, cultivator tines, and some other bolt on stuff. I have no idea who made them, if they still do, and what the impliment was called?

I finally got feed up with garden, and ripped all the weeds/old plants, ect up with the loader this evening, but not really looking forward to reestablishing the hills and all by hand. It's a really small garden, maybe 40 ft x 60 ft, and fenced, so it maneuverability is kinda limited. Soil is extremely sandy. Don't own a tiller, and can't justify price to buy a 3 pnt tiller.

Also, if anyone has one, and it was not worth the cost/effort, be good to have feed back.

 

[jeff9366]

Kubota L285​

1975 - 1981 Compact Utility tractor

Mechanical
Two-wheel drive
Differential lock	mechanical rear

Dimensions
Weight	2230 lbs 1011 kg

 

[jeff9366]

It's a 40 ft X 60 ft, fenced garden, so maneuverability is limited. Soil is extremely sandy.​

​

Keulavator Frame, 3-Point Cultivator Frame, Cat. 1​

$279.99 ea (frame only)

Keulavator™ Frame, 3-Point Cultivator

The Keulavator® is a customizable 3-point cultivator frame Garden Bedder for making or bedding rows on your small farm. Design your own Keulavator® today.

www.agrisupply.com

This will be an excellent match for your 2-WD, 2,230 pound bare weight Kubota working sandy soil.

Tractor 3 Point hitch Garden Bedder raised bed making attachment

Tractor 3 Point hitch Garden Bedder raised bed making attachment uses your worked ground directing it to an elevated mound Everything Attachments Made in USA

www.everythingattachments.com

Buckeye Tractor Online Catalog Page 01-01 Disk Bedders

 

[paulsharvey]

Thank you, that one from ASC was what I was thinking of, but couldn't remember what it was called, or who offered it.

 

[2manyrocks]

For comparison, King Kutter 3 Point Hitch Disc Bedder, Red - DB-RR

I had a 3pt frame and welded two large pieces of metal at an angle to make raised beds in my garden.

 

[paulsharvey]

BTW, I sold the Kubota L285, and now have a Kioti Ck2610Hst. No idea how to update my profile.

 

[jeff9366]

1) In the upper right corner, click on your T-B-N name.

2) Click on ACCOUNT DETAILS.

3) Scroll down to tractor description.

 

[paulsharvey]

1) In the upper right corner, click on your T-B-N name.

2) Click on SETTINGS.

3) Scroll down to tractor description.

Took some trying, and events had to turn on a computer, but I got it updated.

 

[bullockcm]

Another alternative is: Woodward Crossing 3pt Toolbar I think Jeff set one of these up with S-tines a number of years ago in the single tool bar configuration. Depending on your exact needs you probably can replicate this setup for less cost but on the other hand it is nice sometimes to buy the package that just works together.

 

[paulsharvey]

Anyone ever make their own 3 point tool bar using 2" tube? I made one using 2" 14 ga, galvanized sign post, some megalug T-bolts, and a couple scraps of #5 rebar. Wondering about picking up some S-tines, Danish sweeps, and 2" S-tine clamps ($69 @ ASC, but shipping is more like $99). They have the disc hiller with shank for around $50/each, but im not really sure how I would attach the round hiller shank to the square tube, where it resists the pulling and rotation forces, while still being removable and adjustable.

I know the sign post isn't that heavy duty, but it was free. At first, just to tear things up, I took a 4 ft piece of heavy 2" drill pipe, and welded rail road spikes to it at about 4" OC, but it clogs up super fast, and ends up pulling like a rear blade.

 

[paulsharvey]

Pictures of the existing tool. I had originally had a middle buster style plow, very similar, but 2x6 channel and old lawn mower blades as the plow, but I sent it with the old Kubota when I sold that. This frame was just an extra I built years ago, and never used.

That red iron stuff on the right side, is a lame attempt at a row digger, using old scrap I picked up on the side of the road. The angle is Way to weak, and the 'plow' bottom isn't nearly heavy or heavy-duty enough to cut more than 4 inches in sand, without bending or twisting.

 

[2manyrocks]

Sometimes see single row cultivators for about $75-125 in mid. TN. Hardly ever see a hiller with the two disc blades for sale used, however.

 

[bullockcm]

I live in NY with soil primarily consisting of clay and rock, so pretty much polar opposite of what you appear to have so my experience may not mean much. However, I have found primary/initial tillage or any tillage dealing with more than minimal trash requires a tool with both vertical and horizontal spacing between "points" as a general term. Your current design lacks spacing and clearance and unsurprisingly as you found behaves like a solid blade. Could also be described as similar result to a landscape rake or spike tooth harrow as well I expect.

Free material and experimenting can be good things but I would say for ground engagement your material is to lite. I would think 3/16" or 1/4" angle or tube would be a better choice. I have seen a number of different clamping solutions for the round rod normally used on hilling discs. 2 U-bolts thru a plate attached to the frame is one way. Another option is to use larger diameter pipe attached to the frame and then 2 set screws to hold the hiller rod in the pipe.

 

[paulsharvey]

This is the current garden area. It's going to get extended when I finish the property line fencing. As shown, the rigged up scrap attachment does tear up ground, but it doesn't really dig a furrow. Garden has been a mess every year, after doing a ton of handwork, you miss a week, and it's an uncontrolled jungle. Thought process is, if I can mechanize a lot of the initial bed work, and weeding (even just a bit) I would keep it under control.

 

[2manyrocks]

Ms. Rocks insists on having hilled garden furrows. I fabricated something out of what I had laying around that semi-works, but the commercial version that would allow you to adjust your row widths would seem a better option.

However, I seem to recall some guys built their own frames and then used the discs you posted earlier.

 

[paulsharvey]

I hate when people start a thread and never check back in; so, as a check back in; I had some crap metal laying around, mostly 30" 1-1/4"x3/16" thick angle, and other red iron type stuff; and wanted to play with the mig welder. So far, I've pretty much got the frame more or less ready; need to fab or buy lower arm pins; then the big question, how to attach the sweeps to the arms. Tool bar is 55" long

 

[paulsharvey]

Some butt ugly welds, with some slag inclusions, some porosity, and some burn holes, just to rile people up a bit.