Multimeter malfunction

Steve IA · Dec 19, 2016

My Gardner Bender GDT-3200 multimeter AC voltage isn't working. All other functions work OK. When testing AC I get a display reading in the .385 - .393 range instead of the expected ~120v. I replaced the batteries with no help. Contacted GB, but they said submit a warranty card. It's 10 YO and I can't find the receipts anyway. Any ideas of whats going on and how to fix it or translate to VAC? Thanks.
Steve
southiowa

Dave Pee · Dec 19, 2016

Could be a blow fuse inside. Maybe throw it away and by a new one for 5-10 bux?

George2615 · Dec 19, 2016

I agree. I looked up your VOM and see they sell new for $27-35.
Get a coupon and go to HF and get a new VOM for free.

dickfoster · Dec 19, 2016

Steve IA said:
My Gardner Bender GDT-3200 multimeter AC voltage isn't working. All other functions work OK. When testing AC I get a display reading in the .385 - .393 range instead of the expected ~120v. I replaced the batteries with no help. Contacted GB, but they said submit a warranty card. It's 10 YO and I can't find the receipts anyway. Any ideas of whats going on and how to fix it or translate to VAC? Thanks.
Steve
southiowa

Too cheap to fix. Buy a new one. Use this as an opportunity to get yourself and even better meter. Craftsman has a good one with a clamp on for both AC and DC current that is really handy to use. Sears.com Very handy for automotive work too. No need to break a circuit to measure current. DC clamp-ons aren't as common as AC only clamp-ons.

k0ua · Dec 19, 2016

Steve IA said:
My Gardner Bender GDT-3200 multimeter AC voltage isn't working. All other functions work OK. When testing AC I get a display reading in the .385 - .393 range instead of the expected ~120v. I replaced the batteries with no help. Contacted GB, but they said submit a warranty card. It's 10 YO and I can't find the receipts anyway. Any ideas of whats going on and how to fix it or translate to VAC? Thanks.
Steve
southiowa

If I had to guess, I would suggest a diode that rectifies the AC voltage has failed open. But finding it without a schematic and a parts layout could be a problem. Might be easier unless you are good at troubleshooting to put it in the "round file" and get yourself a new one. I would make an attempt to fix it, but that is just me..

TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark · Dec 20, 2016

Here's another vote for tossing it in the trash and buying a new one. k0ua is exactly right. If you don't have the schematic, your chances of fixing it are pretty low. If you were an electronics technician or electrical engineer, you might take a stab at it, but if you were, you probably wouldn't be asking the question on a forum like this.

I'm an engineer, and I would probably take a quick look inside for a fuse or other obvious problems, but I would not spend a lot of time on it. It's just not worth it.

Deere Dude · Dec 20, 2016

Trying to save a 12 YO microwave I fried a $10 multitester from the high end of a transformer. I thought it was the testers fault. I tried my $125 digital multitester and fried that as it acted like your readings, the voltage was all over the place and not to be trusted. After spending another $90 on the flux capacitor on the microwave and still not working, I threw up my arms and threw both testers the parts and the microwave away and bought a new microwave for $150. I couldn't figure it out.

Now I have 3 $7-12 testers that work just fine. Don't get to attached to old testers. They are pretty cheap now.

k0ua · Dec 20, 2016

I forgot to mention, you will definitely need a new Multimeter to have any chance at repair of the old one, even if you have the schematic and a parts layout and the knowledge and experience. So... just saying.

I have half a dozen multimeters of both digital and analog. I repaired/refurbished this old Simpson that I picked up at a Hamfest for $5.00. It is a pretty cool old meter.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/356651-look-what-i-picked-up.html?highlight=

EddieWalker · Dec 20, 2016

Odd, mine quite working too. It's reading crazy voltage levels. 175 volts instead of 120 plus or minus like it should for an outlet. I no longer trust it and will replace it after the Holidays are over.