Multimeter malfunction

[Steve IA]

My Gardner Bender GDT-3200 multimeter AC voltage isn't working. All other functions work OK. When testing AC I get a display reading in the .385 - .393 range instead of the expected ~120v. I replaced the batteries with no help. Contacted GB, but they said submit a warranty card. It's 10 YO and I can't find the receipts anyway. Any ideas of whats going on and how to fix it or translate to VAC? Thanks.
Steve
southiowa

 

[Dave Pee]

Could be a blow fuse inside. Maybe throw it away and by a new one for 5-10 bux?

 

[George2615]

I agree. I looked up your VOM and see they sell new for $27-35.
Get a coupon and go to HF and get a new VOM for free.

 

[dickfoster]

My Gardner Bender GDT-3200 multimeter AC voltage isn't working. All other functions work OK. When testing AC I get a display reading in the .385 - .393 range instead of the expected ~120v. I replaced the batteries with no help. Contacted GB, but they said submit a warranty card. It's 10 YO and I can't find the receipts anyway. Any ideas of whats going on and how to fix it or translate to VAC? Thanks.
Steve
southiowa

Too cheap to fix. Buy a new one. Use this as an opportunity to get yourself and even better meter. Craftsman has a good one with a clamp on for both AC and DC current that is really handy to use. Sears.com Very handy for automotive work too. No need to break a circuit to measure current. DC clamp-ons aren't as common as AC only clamp-ons.

 

[k0ua]

My Gardner Bender GDT-3200 multimeter AC voltage isn't working. All other functions work OK. When testing AC I get a display reading in the .385 - .393 range instead of the expected ~120v. I replaced the batteries with no help. Contacted GB, but they said submit a warranty card. It's 10 YO and I can't find the receipts anyway. Any ideas of whats going on and how to fix it or translate to VAC? Thanks.
Steve
southiowa

If I had to guess, I would suggest a diode that rectifies the AC voltage has failed open. But finding it without a schematic and a parts layout could be a problem. Might be easier unless you are good at troubleshooting to put it in the "round file" and get yourself a new one. I would make an attempt to fix it, but that is just me..

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Here's another vote for tossing it in the trash and buying a new one. k0ua is exactly right. If you don't have the schematic, your chances of fixing it are pretty low. If you were an electronics technician or electrical engineer, you might take a stab at it, but if you were, you probably wouldn't be asking the question on a forum like this.

I'm an engineer, and I would probably take a quick look inside for a fuse or other obvious problems, but I would not spend a lot of time on it. It's just not worth it.

 

[Deere Dude]

Trying to save a 12 YO microwave I fried a $10 multitester from the high end of a transformer. I thought it was the testers fault. I tried my $125 digital multitester and fried that as it acted like your readings, the voltage was all over the place and not to be trusted. After spending another $90 on the flux capacitor on the microwave and still not working, I threw up my arms and threw both testers the parts and the microwave away and bought a new microwave for $150. I couldn't figure it out.

Now I have 3 $7-12 testers that work just fine. Don't get to attached to old testers. They are pretty cheap now.

 

[k0ua]

I forgot to mention, you will definitely need a new Multimeter to have any chance at repair of the old one, even if you have the schematic and a parts layout and the knowledge and experience. So... just saying.

I have half a dozen multimeters of both digital and analog. I repaired/refurbished this old Simpson that I picked up at a Hamfest for $5.00. It is a pretty cool old meter.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/rural-living/356651-look-what-i-picked-up.html?highlight=

 

[EddieWalker]

Odd, mine quite working too. It's reading crazy voltage levels. 175 volts instead of 120 plus or minus like it should for an outlet. I no longer trust it and will replace it after the Holidays are over.

 

[kcflhrc]

Sears had a nice one on sale for $10 the other day.

 

[LD1]

I agree that if its fried, get a new one.

But check the obvious first.....dont know your particular meter, but on mine it isnt auto-ranging. So the range has to be correct, as well as having it on AC instead of DC. Plus, my meters have more than 1 port to plug in the red lead. So if you are sure everything is set correct, and its still acting wonkey.....toss it and get a new one

 

[dickfoster]

If I had to guess, I would suggest a diode that rectifies the AC voltage has failed open. But finding it without a schematic and a parts layout could be a problem. Might be easier unless you are good at troubleshooting to put it in the "round file" and get yourself a new one. I would make an attempt to fix it, but that is just me..

Many multimeters today use a single chip and maybe a few popcorn parts in addition to whatever switching and the test lead sockets of course. The rest is the display LCD and the plastic case. Not really much to them anymore which is why they are so much cheaper than in days of old. A good silicon fab can knock out an entire year's worth of DMM market demand in a single afternoon and have some left over to start off the next year.

 

[k0ua]

Many multimeters today use a single chip and maybe a few popcorn parts in addition to whatever switching and the test lead sockets of course. The rest is the display LCD and the plastic case. Not really much to them anymore which is why they are so much cheaper than in days of old. A good silicon fab can knock out an entire year's worth of DMM market demand in a single afternoon and have some left over to start off the next year.

Yep, pretty much a "disposable item" nowadays.

 

[wjmst]

Don't forget to check the battery. Not sure what all it controls on your model. Maybe just the LCD and has nothing to do with the actual readings on your model. But at least worth a look before tossing it.

Of course to test the battery you need a multi-meter! hahahaha

 

[k0ua]

Don't forget to check the battery. Not sure what all it controls on your model. Maybe just the LCD and has nothing to do with the actual readings on your model. But at least worth a look before tossing it.

Of course to test the battery you need a multi-meter! hahahaha

It is kind of like what good is one multimeter? A man should have a few!:thumbsup:

 

[kenmac]

I have a few of the harbor freight ones. I find the exact same 110 /220 v readings with the harbor freight ones as I do with my expensive fluke

 

[LD1]

Nothing wrong with a cheap meter if all you are doing is checking 110/220v and automotive 12v stuff.

Expensive meters have there place though. A few examples....

1. Trusting it to check exact battery voltages. Some cheap meters aren't sensitive or accurate enough to tell the difference between 12.1v and 12.7v. one is a dead battery, the other will have no issues starting your car.

2. Testing resistance in the kilo-ohms or Mega-ohms range.

3. Trusting my life to it measuring 480v+ circuits. I have some relatively inexpensive meters at home for working onmmy house or autos. But at work, I trust my fluke 337

 

[vvanders]

+1 on fluke, quality stuff but you'll pay for it. Ive got a couple and found ExTech is a nice mix of quality and price.

I only play with the low voltage stuff but would love an excuse to get a proper clamp meter.

 

[Steve IA]

Thanks all for the advice. It's pretty much what I expected, but sometimes one gets lucky with an easy fix. :laughing: It's going into the battery drawer and I'll find a new one after the holidays.
Greetings to all.
Steve IA

 

[MarkF48]

When you set about looking for a new meter, an 'Auto-off' feature to save the battery is one of my important criteria. I've got a couple Extech's I got from Amazon that have seemed pretty good.