My dump trailer build

[leveller]

Larry, thanks for the video! I really like that idea! Looks like I may have to buy 2 more cylinders, Greg

 

[oughtsix]

I recommend having a pretty substantial reinforced edge surrounding the dump box. Try as you might, occasionally it will get bumped with the excavator bucket.

Not a bad idea but if you put slots around the top of the dump box to accept 2x4's they will take a lot more abuse than metal and you can replace them very cheaply. The wood will provide a bit of a shock cushion and will help alleviate dings in the trailer and bucket.

 

[20 20]

GuglioLS,

Very nice setup, I like that gate. I never did anything fancy with my gate, it just slides in and out. Sometime I'll probably make something like what you've designed.

 

[20 20]

Not a bad idea but if you put slots around the top of the dump box to accept 2x4's they will take a lot more abuse than metal and you can replace them very cheaply. The wood will provide a bit of a shock cushion and will help alleviate dings in the trailer and bucket.

I also thought about using heavy metal for sides, but did not. I went with wood, and yes they get smacked and even broke, easy replace. I would rather break a board then smack heavy metal especially with my mini ex.

 

[SPIKER]

I used several large bolts 3/4" threaded into nuts I welded into the tailgate. I thread them through some oval shaped pipe I welded into the trailer. By lifting the tailgate slightly it opens out like a pickup and simply unscrewing the bottom it will hinge out like standard dumping gate...

Works OK but sometimes sand in the threads makes it a pain...
mark m

 

[Scotty370]

First I want to thank "leveller" for this thread, as I have my trailer well on the way, except for the lift geometry aspect! Also thanks, for dragging GugliosLS's thread out of the weeds! I read the whole thing! Couple questions for the "G" man: On your post #66, you comment about the hydro circuits in parallel. My limited hydro experiance is that hydro fluid would flow in the path of least resistance, if all plumbed together. Thus the rear tailgate rams would open to max, bottom out, before the lift rams would pressurize for lift? Keep in mind I'm not a ".......Electronics & Optics, Inductivly Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometers (ICP-MS) and ICP Emission Spectrometers"......specialist! If I opt for a electro/hydro pump, that would handle this rig, what and where should I look for and where? I'm not adverse to shopping e-bay, but what am I looking for? That would certainly give me the best of both worlds having a hydro lift that would operate behind a tractor and ATV. Great build! ~Scotty

 

[donais]

i second using 2x4s or 2x6s for the top rail we used to use them on the 10 wheel dump trucks i used to drive. when i bought my dump trailer(best investment i ever made i think) i put 2x6's on the rails and it gives you that much more room. jon

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Here is a pic of one I just installed in my rig. When down, all the pressure is put on the scissors, as the hoist lifts, it is pushing straight up initially.

Could you post more pics of the scissor lift. I like the idea and would like to copy it if I could make it work.
Bill

 

[leveller]

Here is a link to a local to me hoist manufacturer. I have one of these hoist on my big dump trailer (14 footer) and it works very well. The pics on that site are not great, but may give you some ideas. I was trying to avoid building a hoist style lift for my small trailer, just to keep it simple, but in hindsite I think it may have been worth it, although I am happy with how it is working now. Here is the link Nordic I'm sure a Google search for underbody hoists would turn up better info, Greg

 

[GuglioLS]

....snip.....snip.....Also thanks, for dragging GugliosLS's thread out of the weeds! I read the whole thing! Couple questions for the "G" man: On your post #66, you comment about the hydro circuits in parallel. My limited hydro experiance is that hydro fluid would flow in the path of least resistance, if all plumbed together. Thus the rear tailgate rams would open to max, bottom out, before the lift rams would pressurize for lift? ....snip....snip.....If I opt for a electro/hydro pump, that would handle this rig, what and where should I look for and where? I'm not adverse to shopping e-bay, but what am I looking for? ....snip....snip....~Scotty

Scotty, you got that right about the dump and tailgate cylinders being in parallel. That was by design so I didn't have to add another valve, hoses fittings etc. to my dozer, tractor and trailer to get the tailgate to work. As long as the valve is closed the tailgate holds tight, as soon as I actuate the valve the path of least resistance is the tailgate so it opens first then bottoms out then the dump cylinder starts to lift. When lowering, the bed lowers first followed by the tailgate. I have made a few more mods (improvements to the tailgate function) that I have not updated to my dump trailer build, my bad. Look forward to seeing them soon.

As far as a electro - hydro actuator or power pack unit I suggest surplus center CLICK HERE


Here are links to scissors hoists for trailers or truck beds, a little pricey if you ask me, especially if you can design a bed and cylinder on your own and get it to lift without tearing up the cylinder mounts or the trailer bed. Why bother installing a 1000 + dollar hoist? I don't get it.

scissor hoist for trailers

scissor hoist for truck beds

Larry