My First YM2000

[Eric1969]

Hello all, I finally talked my friend down the street out of his YM2000 tractor.
He said it's a gray model from japan.
I have been doing some browsing on this forum just to see what I can find out about it.
Not been able to find any pics that resemble mine, but from what I've read there can be some differences with gray models.
I'm just getting into it trying to get it running so I'm sure i will have questions.
Going to try to post a pic of it.
Thanks.

 

[Ginormous]

Welcome! The font of your tractor does look a little different than what I've seen. Looks to be in pretty good shape. Can you start it? Good luck with getting it going. :thumbsup:

 

[careyo63]

The Grn. model is the first production Yrs. that about the only thing different. It's a Gray or import. A YM240 is the US. model. The only difference in them is the Throttle works opposite and the Gray Has 3 PTO. Gears. Will it Turn Over?

 

[Eric1969]

Yes it turns over. The motor oil is low so I'm going to get some now. 5-40 from what I've read? Then I hope to get it started. Replaced the fuel and purged the lines. Hope that does it.

 

[careyo63]

Use your Decompression lever that should look like the one in the Pic. It's the Bottom silver Aluminum lever on the Left with the bent handle. It holds the Valves open so IT WILL NOT START !!! But it will let the motor turn Easier/faster. Pull your Throttle Lever to Full Throttle or Backwards towards you is Faster. Get it spinning with the Decompression and release it and I bet It Fires up. When you get use to starting it the Owners Manuel says Full but I only use Half or about 1500.

 

[California]

Eric, what you have is a first series YM2000, about 1976. Second Series went to red paint and put the headlights in the grille; that's about the only difference. (But you need to specify first series YM2000 when ordering parts because there were a few upgrades where you need the early part.)

Take a look at the dealer brochures linked from my sig at the bottom of this post. These describe the US (Export) versions of your tractor.

YM240 and YM195 were the Export versions of YM2000 and YM1700. They are near identical to the Japan-market versions but they didn't go to red paint when the hood was changed to second series. Since their documentation was in English, their manuals are what YM2000 owners use.

 

[284 International]

Welcome to the forum. Whereabouts are you?

 

[careyo63]

Out Back working on his New to him Tractor. Were you think :laughing: I know I seen the Cal. on his profile.

 

[Eric1969]

Yep, S.Californio, and I was out working on it..
But, I fallowed the starting procedure and it wont light off.
I noticed that there is not any kind of pre heat source on it. Is that correct? it doesn't look like anything is missing. basically the only electrical is the starting, charging and lighting system. Nothing for the motor
Yes, this is my first diesel tractor.

 

[California]

Diesels require careful bleeding of the air out of the fuel system. Try this.

 

[careyo63]

Or This. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJ34yPF2Pzw]HOWTO: Bleeding air out of a small Yanmar diesel - YouTube[/ame]
Stiil the same you only have two cylinders.

 

[Eric1969]

I will try priming again.
What I have done so far is:
Removed all the old fuel from the system.
Went through the injectors, cleaned and reassembled.
New fuel, bled the system, with the injectors out I cranked to check squirt, squirting good. replaced injectors.
Still no go.
Am I missing something for starting procedure?
Lever in start position, compression release turned, crank to get oil pressure up then release compression lever, should start.

 

[Eric1969]

I love the video.
Not only informative but entertaining as well.

What it makes me wonder is......it seems that air in the lines, any at all, can cause trouble. so I wonder if my fuel line is letting in air because it is old and in poor shape.

Also, isn't there a bleed screw on the injector pump?

 

[California]

'Start position' in Yanmar's manuals is full throttle, then when it fires pull lever down to 1500 rpm for warmup. (But most of us ignore that and use lower start/warmup settings).

If you are cranking it with compression released and throttle wide open you should see white fuel fog coming out the exhaust. Then black exhaust for a moment when it fires. If you don't see this - its a fueling issue.

I usually do the oil-circulation compression-release cranking with throttle closed. Then open the throttle, use compression release for a couple of revolutions of the starter to get up to speed, and drop the compression release.

In this warm weather you don't need to use Thermostart. That's the little manifold heater. (It's below the air cleaner and looks like a spark plug with a wire going to it).

 

[California]

I don't agree with that video. Some of the most experienced dealers who have posted on here have said you never need to open the lines beyond the injector pump, to prime it. And the video opens both screws on the filter at the same time. The dealer-recommended procedure is to open them one at a time in sequence starting nearest the tank.

And yes, there is a third bleeder screw down at the injector pump inlet, that is bled last.

 

[284 International]

I was asking where he was because awhile ago there was a guy around here selling an early version YM2000 like his and a YM173. I've wondered what happened to the 173...they haven't shown up asking about it here, so maybe it works perfectly! I was curious if this was that same 2000.

 

[careyo63]

Didn't watch it all again But if you didn't bleed the Inj. pump then I would. Just loosen the Philips head the same way as the Fuel Bowl bleeds. It's were the Fuel line from the Filter connects to the Injector pump. Bango Fitting! Start there this time and work backward through the Two on the Fuel Filter. If no go then Crack your Lines at the Injectors like the Video to make sure there is fuel dripping out. It doesn't matter how you do it At the same time or One at a time all your looking for is Fuel Getting to the injectors. No mention of "ANY Black Smoke" which means one of two things. No Fuel or No Compression.

 

[Eric1969]

284, This one has been sitting in my neighbors yard for the last 10 years. forgotten about, I might say. I don't think it would be the same one.
I am near Temecula, north of San Diego.

I did the bled like Ca. suggested and the start procedure as well. lots of gray smoke puffing out. but no start.
Is it possible it has a stuck valve and not getting combustion? I don't know what to try next.
Sucking air in from a bad line?

 

[Eric1969]

I did these things just a few minutes ago. strong squirts from the fittings going into the injectors. Is it possible that it's just worn out? not enough compression to start? No black smoke, only gray.

Didn't watch it all again But if you didn't bleed the Inj. pump then I would. Just loosen the Philips head the same way as the Fuel Bowl bleeds. It's were the Fuel line from the Filter connects to the Injector pump. Bango Fitting! Start there this time and work backward through the Two on the Fuel Filter. If no go then Crack your Lines at the Injectors like the Video to make sure there is fuel dripping out. It doesn't matter how you do it At the same time or One at a time all your looking for is Fuel Getting to the injectors. No mention of "ANY Black Smoke" which means one of two things. No Fuel or No Compression.

 

[careyo63]

If your getting smoke you have compression. Gray not Black smoke sounds like Bad fuel. Water in the Lines. IMO. Drain them all again. even the Fuel Bowl. Just be careful around the Filter bowl and don't damage the O-Ring. Or it will be sucking air. Is the O-Ring even there?