My KAMA 454 has arrived!
- Thread starter Paddy
- Start date
- Views: 6282
Scozz
Silver Member
Congratulations Patrick. She's gonna treat you well!
Did you have to remove the canopy to get it to fit in your garage? Mine fits in with with less than an inch to spare (canopy on). Looks like they made some color modifications on the hood .. is the lower half silver? Two modifications I made on mine right away (might be of interest to you) The hood could not open on mine with the loader lowered. I know the day will come that I have to get under the hood to get it started and did not want to be stuck. I notched the plate that protects the hydraulic lines so that it cleared the hood. It still covers the lines (I bent one a little to get more clearance) and the hood will open with the loader down. Also I changed the exhaust to below the tractor discarging to the rear. I bought a new muffler and welded black iron pipe with a 1 1/2" circulator flange for the manifold. I did not want to canibilize the OEM mufffler. Its much quieter with the exhaust below me now. Good Luck! Scozz
Did you have to remove the canopy to get it to fit in your garage? Mine fits in with with less than an inch to spare (canopy on). Looks like they made some color modifications on the hood .. is the lower half silver? Two modifications I made on mine right away (might be of interest to you) The hood could not open on mine with the loader lowered. I know the day will come that I have to get under the hood to get it started and did not want to be stuck. I notched the plate that protects the hydraulic lines so that it cleared the hood. It still covers the lines (I bent one a little to get more clearance) and the hood will open with the loader down. Also I changed the exhaust to below the tractor discarging to the rear. I bought a new muffler and welded black iron pipe with a 1 1/2" circulator flange for the manifold. I did not want to canibilize the OEM mufffler. Its much quieter with the exhaust below me now. Good Luck! Scozz
billbill1
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2004
- Messages
- 1,207
- Location
- Lecompton, Kansas
- Tractor
- 2016 Mahindra 1533 Shuttle AgKing 2840 shuttle shift
Good lookin' rig Paddy, do the front fenders have to be removed to use a FEL? Good luck!!!!
Scoz,
I have an eight foot Garage door as well. When I tilted the folding Rops, the top actully made it taller. It was snowing a bit so I just removed the 4 bolts and removed it. I hope I can get her in and out with out having to a) fold or b) remove the top permatly.
This week I will see if I can drill new holes in the fiberglass top so it can be mounted at it lowest location.
Chip did say the 2005s have a silver instaead of black hood detail.
I like the exhuast up if it was not for the low trees on my property. I'd hate to break the exhuast manafold.
Good idea on the modification to get hood open. I agree the most important time to get the dang hood open is when she won't start.
I plan on a few mods myself. I will greese the electrical connections and then cover with some sort of shrink noodle. Also will get a can of pait and hit a few of those parts I see that will be the first to rust.
She started good the first time. No need for Compression release or 'flame heater'
Soon I will be mounting my Ford 758 BH. I bought it used and will need to modify it for the KAMA. The BH has framing for the top link of the 3PH and the draw bar for the lower arms of the 3PH. Then a subframe that on the Ford went back to the fender bolts on the rear axel. The KAMA/Koyker has a vertical plate where the FEL ties back to the Rear axel, at the fender bolts. So I will try to configure mounting the subframe there. I want to insure a strong attachment but at the same time I need the BH to 'Come and Go as I please'
I glad to be apart of the KAMA family, what a nice tractor.
Patrick
I have an eight foot Garage door as well. When I tilted the folding Rops, the top actully made it taller. It was snowing a bit so I just removed the 4 bolts and removed it. I hope I can get her in and out with out having to a) fold or b) remove the top permatly.
This week I will see if I can drill new holes in the fiberglass top so it can be mounted at it lowest location.
Chip did say the 2005s have a silver instaead of black hood detail.
I like the exhuast up if it was not for the low trees on my property. I'd hate to break the exhuast manafold.
Good idea on the modification to get hood open. I agree the most important time to get the dang hood open is when she won't start.
I plan on a few mods myself. I will greese the electrical connections and then cover with some sort of shrink noodle. Also will get a can of pait and hit a few of those parts I see that will be the first to rust.
She started good the first time. No need for Compression release or 'flame heater'
Soon I will be mounting my Ford 758 BH. I bought it used and will need to modify it for the KAMA. The BH has framing for the top link of the 3PH and the draw bar for the lower arms of the 3PH. Then a subframe that on the Ford went back to the fender bolts on the rear axel. The KAMA/Koyker has a vertical plate where the FEL ties back to the Rear axel, at the fender bolts. So I will try to configure mounting the subframe there. I want to insure a strong attachment but at the same time I need the BH to 'Come and Go as I please'
I glad to be apart of the KAMA family, what a nice tractor.
Patrick
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( She started good the first time. No need for Compression release or 'flame heater' )</font>
Congrats on your new purchase Patrick. But please reconsider the "no need" part of that statement. Should it become habit, I fear you could look forward to premature failures in the starting system.
Mine came with no engine preheater at all, and starts (with compression release) down to +15F. Below that, forget it - even with a new Interstate 1150CA/850CCA battery. I've since installed a pair of Wolverine oil pan heaters to assist with winter starts.
Assuming you change to 15W40 or better, please consider - at a minimum - the use of your preheater at temps below +33F. If you use single viscosity oil (30W), make that +40F. And I strongly recommend the use of the compression release EVERY time you start a cold/dry engine. By cold/dry, I mean an engine block that has returned to ambient temp, and has had all the oil drain back into the pan. Pull the compression release and hold, spin the starter for 2-3 seconds. Getting the crank and flywheel mass to spin without the resistance of compression, takes a helluva lot of strain off the starter motor and battery. If you watch the gauge at the same time, you can also actually see oil pressure starting to develop. THEN - let go of the compression release. This advice is relative to cold/dry engines, and is applicable 12 months of the year. Add the preheater to the starting sequence, when conditions dictate the need for an additional starting assist.
//greg//
Congrats on your new purchase Patrick. But please reconsider the "no need" part of that statement. Should it become habit, I fear you could look forward to premature failures in the starting system.
Mine came with no engine preheater at all, and starts (with compression release) down to +15F. Below that, forget it - even with a new Interstate 1150CA/850CCA battery. I've since installed a pair of Wolverine oil pan heaters to assist with winter starts.
Assuming you change to 15W40 or better, please consider - at a minimum - the use of your preheater at temps below +33F. If you use single viscosity oil (30W), make that +40F. And I strongly recommend the use of the compression release EVERY time you start a cold/dry engine. By cold/dry, I mean an engine block that has returned to ambient temp, and has had all the oil drain back into the pan. Pull the compression release and hold, spin the starter for 2-3 seconds. Getting the crank and flywheel mass to spin without the resistance of compression, takes a helluva lot of strain off the starter motor and battery. If you watch the gauge at the same time, you can also actually see oil pressure starting to develop. THEN - let go of the compression release. This advice is relative to cold/dry engines, and is applicable 12 months of the year. Add the preheater to the starting sequence, when conditions dictate the need for an additional starting assist.
//greg//
Greg,
That makes sence to use the decompression. Now I just have to rember to turn the key off. My Kubota has a light to indicate the key/hr meter is on. I will install a 12V bulb with the "on" position wiring.
I'm sure over the next few weeks I will have many questions.
Thank you Greg for helping guide me to this tractor.
Patrick
That makes sence to use the decompression. Now I just have to rember to turn the key off. My Kubota has a light to indicate the key/hr meter is on. I will install a 12V bulb with the "on" position wiring.
I'm sure over the next few weeks I will have many questions.
Thank you Greg for helping guide me to this tractor.
Patrick
dpl96
Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2004
- Messages
- 41
- Location
- Charleston, Illinois 61920
- Tractor
- a 67 Cub LowBoy - would love to restore her. Also have a 2004 Kubota BX-23.
Congrats on your new family member. Enjoy your seat time on your new toy - I mean .... eerrrrr ..... try to make the best out of all the terrible long tiring hard work you will be trudging through with your professional piece of equipment.
greg_g
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 18, 2003
- Messages
- 6,126
- Location
- Western Kentucky
- Tractor
- JD3720 Cab, 300X loader with 4-in-1 bucket
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Now I just have to rember to turn the key off. )</font>
I never leave the seat without pulling up on the brake lever. You should apply the parking brake before shutting off the engine. That will illuminate the brake light in the instrument cluster: left side about 2-3 lights down from the top. Save you the trouble of adding another circuit.
//greg//
I never leave the seat without pulling up on the brake lever. You should apply the parking brake before shutting off the engine. That will illuminate the brake light in the instrument cluster: left side about 2-3 lights down from the top. Save you the trouble of adding another circuit.
//greg//
