My new Ford 4000

[Midniteoyl]

The only thing that is silver on my gold demo is the caps that attach to the shifter and the rear PA rims

Kirk

Huh.. On my screen, the first pic looks silver... might be time to adjust my monitor.

 

[ovrszd]

My Son has a demo gold tractor but it ain't that pretty.

 

[kuschneider]

Gentlemen,

I am struggling to find what I need for the air cleaner assembly. I have the J Tube, but I keep seeing air cleaners that look like this . I cannot figure how this connects to the carb via the J tube. The hood has, the air funnel. Just not sure what the heck this is supposed to look like? I can find a pic of the air cleaner mounted on the tractor with the hood off?

Seems like the air should enter the air cleaner from the side based on the air funnel that is mounted on the inside of the hood, but everything I see looks like the air enters from the top, and I don't see how the J tube would connect. Can someone give me a hand with this?

EDIT: The parts # from this illustration give me nothing when I google them. View attachment Air cleaner2.pdf


Thanks
Kurt

 

[Kirk-NJ]

Here is the one you need. Look up for ford powermaster 801 tractor, it's the same, both for the 172 engine. There were two different 4000's, the early 4 cylinder model and the later 3 cylinder square nose model.

Kirk

 

[kuschneider]

Kirk,

Thanks for the pic. I was able to track one down on eBay for like $35. Not the prettiest but should be serviceable. . Even searching for the 801 air cleaner didn't yield many results.


Got the main jet/nozzle out of the carb last night. Pretty certain that was the problem with idling.

She is coming together. Change some more fluids, get the carb back together, get the air cleaner up to speed, legit 6V battery. We will be getting close.

What to do about the paint/rust? I don't wanna just half as spray paint it, but letting the existing rust just continue to get worse also seems silly. I am not going to do a fully restoration paint job to get it to factory new in appearance. Is there a happy medium where I don't look like somebody with a total piece of crap that just slapped on paint hoping to make it it sell for more? I have no plans to sell at the moment, I want it for work. But having it look nicer is also appealing.

 

[ovrszd]

I suggest using without new paint for a year. Then paint it to the standard the tractor has earned.

 

[kuschneider]

Ok just want to make sure I am on track with fluid drain and refill locations.

1)Pic of the big round plug with the square lug shows the differential fluid fill, right under right butt cheek

2)Underneath looking towards the rear of the tractor shows the hydraulic drain plug, then further back the differential drain plug.

3)The other pic underneath looking forward shows the tranny drain plug and oil drain plug (oil is already swapped so no worries there)

4)Pic looking forward at the rear left of the differential is the diff fluid inspection hole

5) The pic is by my right heel looking under running board, the hydraulic fill hole?


Think I got all correct?

 

[kuschneider]

OK, I found the hydraulic fill, big cap right under left side butt. Looks just like the diff fill cap, but tilted at an angle.

Trans fill hole is the same as the trans trans check plug

 

[Soundguy]

Trans fill is on top, check plug right side.

 

[kuschneider]

I just filled through the inspection plug on the side. Right at 11.5 qts in before it dribbled out. Didn't see any fill hole on top of the S-O-S.


In related news, I solved the idling issue. My partner in crime on this tractor and his dad were able to get the main jet and nozzle out, got that cleaned up. Idle fuel passage is clear. Idles rather nicely now. Cleaning up the air cleaner I got off craigslist, just some tough up painting on the spots we sanded off the rust.

Also solved the PTO. We were able to stop the PTO with a 2x4 with the PTO cable control knob pushed in, but not able to stop it once it was pulled out. It was just fluid coupling.