My "new" tractor

Timber · Oct 26, 2006

Be careful Audrey, pretty soon your going to be labeled as collector of old Iron. The only sadness I see in that pic is what is left of your old barn

roxynoodle · Oct 26, 2006

Yeah that is what is left of the barn. I've got about 75% of it dismantled now.

Honestly, the tractor looks better in the sunlight than it did Monday night when I looked at it (dark, snowy afternoon and evening, and I even first looked at it in the garage). I think it's very restorable.

It has new plugs and wires so I guess I won't worry about them at the moment. I will have to check the serial number again. I wrote it down to see if it was actually a 1950 and now I can't find it. Have to go to job #2 tonight so I probably won't get another chance until tomorrow.

Thanks all, for being supportive. My friends think I'm nuts!

As for the seller, I doubt he loses money on anything he sells. His motto is "anything you see here is for sale at any time"! Which is why I asked. So he either paid the same amount or less. Maybe he even got it free, could have been his grandfather's or something. He brought it home a couple of years ago to clear out some land next to his house he bought. Since then, it had mostly been just sitting around.

Seems to me some of the ones I looked at on ebay to get an idea of price were in Florida, Soundguy. Some of the ones on ebay look really nice for $1500-2500. Restored or very good original condition. I wouldn't buy one on ebay that I didn't get to go look at first, but if it's local, why not?

roxynoodle · Oct 27, 2006

BobG_in_VA said:
R/N: As far as the battery being under the gas tank, check around the net for some like tractors. You can easily fabricate a "box" that will attach to the frame rail next to where it is now (you may have to get longer cables though). Easier to get to and more original....Also, at your leisure, pick up 4 new plugs: either Autolite 386s or AC C86s. If Champions are in it now, do yourself a favor and change them out as they tend to foul out more easily than the Autolites or the ACs. We've got 3 Farmall's running the ACs and Autolites and haven't had a fouled plug on any in over 3 years. As you may know, the plugs and ignition systems are the same for all "lettered" farmalls of the '48-'54 era: in other words, a Farmall C/Super C distributor will interchange with an H or an M or even a Cub. What's your serial #? Any suffixes, such as X, X1 or J? PS: The same distributor is used for the 6volt as well as a 12volt conversion. Only thing changed there is the coil is changed out to a 12volt. PSS: If you steering wheel isn't cracked (plastic/rubber part), don't try and replace for a couple of reasons: 1. They are about $36-40 each PLUS shipping=about $50. and 2. The nut holding the steering wheel on is easy to get off but you may have a problem getting off the steering wheel from the rod (usually takes a few days with PB Blaster and a gear puller....Just use Black Duct tape and wrap the steering wheel...No problem. BobG in VA

The plastic or rubber on the steering wheel is very cracked and some of it is missing. I did find one for $26.50 and hopefully the old one will come off without too much trouble. Wish me luck!

The serial number is 346195X1. X1 means gasoline engine I believe.

Timber · Oct 27, 2006

You know it's kind of funny, Now that I have my New tractor I think I want to restore an old 1 now. I think I am going to start looking for an old ford, 50s vintage. I just like the way they look. Nice to have 1 with just a Brush mower. I have a thing for old horse drawn farming equipment too. My dad collected vintage cars out of the 20s and 30s

daTeacha · Oct 27, 2006

Hmmm. Could the first entry in this thread be the answer to the "best tractor for the best price" thread?

I'd be all over that deal in a heartbeat, and I don't even need another tractor.

roxynoodle · Oct 27, 2006

Timber said:
You know it's kind of funny, Now that I have my New tractor I think I want to restore an old 1 now. I think I am going to start looking for an old ford, 50s vintage. I just like the way they look. Nice to have 1 with just a Brush mower. I have a thing for old horse drawn farming equipment too. My dad collected vintage cars out of the 20s and 30s

I just like old things. My house is 150 years old and I love remodeling it. I like antiques of all kinds whether they are tractors, cars, furniture or machines and gadgets. Not to mention, we all know many old things were built better and outlast their modern counterparts. My best pitchfork belonged to the father of the old woman who used to live across the road from me. I don't know the age of the pitchfork, but she was 86 when she died 2 years ago. You just can't break that thing. I also have one of her dad's hoes.

I like the old Ford tractors too and I don't think you can beat them on low center of gravity and wide stance. I pretty much had my heart set on a Farmall or Allis-Chalmers, but I would have bought an 8N or 9N had I found one cheap. For whatever reason they seem to be worth more. If I see one for $1500 it's in bad shape. There's a beautiful one next door. I say, get the tractor. There is a lot of pride in ownership of things you restore/remodel yourself.

wolc123 · Oct 27, 2006

An 8n or 9n is worth $1000-$2000 more than an old farmall or allis chalmers for one reason only, it has a factory 3 point hitch that is compatible with even todays implements. While the old farmalls and AC's are polpular with collectors, so are the old Fords, but at the same time they can do almost anything that a new CUT can which makes them usefull to a much larger group of people.

Devildog · Oct 27, 2006

Nice deal there Roxy. I agree with Scott on the sheet metal. I have restored a few old tractors and wish the sheet metal had been that straight on a couple. I love working on the old iron. Just dont get it looking so good you dont want to use it

Soundguy · Oct 28, 2006

roxynoodle said:
The plastic or rubber on the steering wheel is very cracked and some of it is missing. I did find one for $26.50 and hopefully the old one will come off without too much trouble. Wish me luck!

The serial number is 346195X1. X1 means gasoline engine I believe.

If it is a cheap beat up work tractor.. just put an automotive steering wheel cover on it and let it fly for about 5 bucks.

If you ever restore it.. then get a shiny new wheel.

Soundguy

dillo99 · Oct 29, 2006

She's beautiful...how could we laugh. I want one.

PineRidge · Oct 29, 2006

Nice looking iron, nobody laughing here.

roxynoodle · Oct 29, 2006

Look, and it has a plow!

eBay: WIDE FRONT FARMALL H TRACTOR WITH SNOW PLOW (item 150052457765 end time Nov-05-06 10:00:00 PST)

Turbys_1700 · Oct 30, 2006

You stole it...
My grandfather bought a new one in 42...
Was on a waiting list for an M because ofthe war...
Took an H that came in earlier...
Gave $1150 for it...
My father restored it and then sold it after 50 plus years on the farm...
A local guy bought it and converted it to a super stock puller...
Saw it two weeks ago at a farm show...
Wish we still had it...

roxynoodle · Oct 30, 2006

I wish you still had it, too. It was part of your family's history.

frank_f15 · Oct 30, 2006

hey roxy nice machine , i looked at one about 5 yrs ago, but was in terrible shape. tires were shot and back rims were nothing but rust, and it would not start! so i passed.

roxynoodle · Oct 30, 2006

Tires were one of the things I checked well. If they had been shot, I would've passed because there were others in the area for not much more money I could've looked at. One front is new, the other isn't horrible. The back ones have worn tread but very little weather checking. One back rim has been welded on the inside in one place. If I restore it, something will have to be done with that rim, either a better weld, or replace.

I did discover a potential problem safety-wise, other than no ROPS. I read a newspaper story online the other night while doing research on the tractor. A teenage boy slipped or fell getting off the tractor and engaged the PTO in doing so. Of course he landed on it and was killed. The only good way on and off for me is also the back of the tractor. I have an owner's manual for it now that says the clutch must be down to engage the PTO. Wrong! Mine can be started too without pushing in the clutch. It has a rod that needs to be pulled up to start it. This boy may have caught a shoelace or something on it, pulled it up and then fell from being caught. I can see how it could happen. So now I either shell out $50 for a PTO shield or try to make one. I'm also thinking boots without laces could be an extra safety precaution. Still won't stop me from catching my pant leg, etc. Just a note to pass on for anyone else thinking of getting a vintage tractor.

Julian Mule · Oct 30, 2006

Roxy, Nice job! It's cool to see the tractor after seeing your posts in the vintage forum about the choke. I think your initial impressions about this gem were a little too negative. Congrats on a good purchase, I hope she serves you faithfully for a long time!

wolc123 · Oct 30, 2006

The best thing you could do to make that tractor safer is to install a kit for a wide front end. The tricicle configuration was handy for cultivating but not nearly as stable as the wide front version. Many roll over accidents have occured with the trikes which is why they stopped making them 40 or so years ago. Great care must be taken when crossing ditches and driving on hillsides. I am not sure what the kit would cost you but maybe others on this site could give you an idea. Other than that, the H is a fine machine and you got a good deal.

BobG_in_VA · Oct 31, 2006

wolc123 said:
The best thing you could do to make that tractor safer is to install a kit for a wide front end. The tricicle configuration was handy for cultivating but not nearly as stable as the wide front version. Many roll over accidents have occured with the trikes which is why they stopped making them 40 or so years ago. Great care must be taken when crossing ditches and driving on hillsides. I am not sure what the kit would cost you but maybe others on this site could give you an idea. Other than that, the H is a fine machine and you got a good deal.

Wide front ends for H's and M's: Farmall made them and there is at least one company that made and after market version. Either in good shape (not welded all to pieces...) will run you more than you paid for the tractor. Then you'll find that it doesn't steer nearly as well or easy, leading you to want/need power steering. Guess what and outfit called Char-Lyn made a PS unit for these tractors. Oh yeah, now you'll have to install a belly hyd pump to get the fluid to run the PS, but alas, the belly pump only puts out when the clutch is released (like and 8N Ford). Lots of good ideas hear, but if you're looking to pull a manure spreader, leave it as it is or find a set of fenders to add on (keeps you away from the rear tires). Enjoy the tractor and be safe. Bobg in Va

MikeD74T · Oct 31, 2006

roxynoodle said:
Tires were one of the things I checked well. If they had been shot, I would've passed because there were others in the area for not much more money I could've looked at. One front is new, the other isn't horrible. The back ones have worn tread but very little weather checking. One back rim has been welded on the inside in one place. If I restore it, something will have to be done with that rim, either a better weld, or replace.

I did discover a potential problem safety-wise, other than no ROPS. I read a newspaper story online the other night while doing research on the tractor. A teenage boy slipped or fell getting off the tractor and engaged the PTO in doing so. Of course he landed on it and was killed. The only good way on and off for me is also the back of the tractor. I have an owner's manual for it now that says the clutch must be down to engage the PTO. Wrong! Mine can be started too without pushing in the clutch. It has a rod that needs to be pulled up to start it. This boy may have caught a shoelace or something on it, pulled it up and then fell from being caught. I can see how it could happen. So now I either shell out $50 for a PTO shield or try to make one. I'm also thinking boots without laces could be an extra safety precaution. Still won't stop me from catching my pant leg, etc. Just a note to pass on for anyone else thinking of getting a vintage tractor.

I have logged hundreds of hours on an H. Liked it for mowing with a sickle bar as it had great visability & with a turn of the wheel & a tap of the brake will make square turns. The best protection from PTO injuries is stay on the tractor until the engine is stopped. I believe in calculating risk & getting off that tractor with the engine running is a bad risk. I envy your purchase, have fun with it. MikeD74T