Nail sizes and laser level recommendation

[rogerius]

I'm trying to "shoot two rabbits" on this post by asking the experts about the nail sizes used in a pole barn build and also a recommendation for a good and not expensive laser level.
Thx.

 

[EddieWalker]

Nail size and type depends a lot on what you are doing or attaching? Some wood required hot dip galvanized, other type of nails are designed for framing, siding and brackets. It's not uncommon to use three or four types of nails on a building.

I like bigger nails and full heads. I use 3 1/4 inch nails in my framing gun, and I like 3 inch deck screws. I also use Simpson screws on brackets and bolts to attach headers to posts.

What you save by going smaller or cheaper will cost you ten times as much down the road in repairs.


My laser level is a Spectra. There are commercial brands and their are home owner brands. The big different besides price is degree of accuracy and how far it will go. What do you want to use it for? I use mine for dirt work. On a house, I use a six foot level for most everything. Since you are building, you really need a quality six foot level more then a laser level unless you have a big pad to build and you are moving a lot of dirt. Even then, I would take a high quaity six foot level and a straight 2x6x12 for dirt work over a cheap laser level. It's not even close.

Eddie

 

[dstig1]

Laser level can mean a million things. What type are you talking about, or what tasks do you need to do with it? Nobody can really give you any useful advice without knowing more.

 

[rogerius]

Nail size and type depends a lot on what you are doing or attaching? Some wood required hot dip galvanized, other type of nails are designed for framing, siding and brackets. It's not uncommon to use three or four types of nails on a building.

I like bigger nails and full heads. I use 3 1/4 inch nails in my framing gun, and I like 3 inch deck screws. I also use Simpson screws on brackets and bolts to attach headers to posts.

What you save by going smaller or cheaper will cost you ten times as much down the road in repairs.


My laser level is a Spectra. There are commercial brands and their are home owner brands. The big different besides price is degree of accuracy and how far it will go. What do you want to use it for? I use mine for dirt work. On a house, I use a six foot level for most everything. Since you are building, you really need a quality six foot level more then a laser level unless you have a big pad to build and you are moving a lot of dirt. Even then, I would take a high quaity six foot level and a straight 2x6x12 for dirt work over a cheap laser level. It's not even close.

Eddie

Thanks Eddie for advice. I'm doing the bill of materials for the future barn and I'm at hardware section, so not sure what nails to buy. Seems the 3 1/4 is the size most used to attach the purlins, trusses, girts, etc, as these are 2x? size.

About laser level, can you send me the model which you have. The purpose of buying one is to use in leveling the site for barn and house and also to layout the future 800 feets driveway.

 

[wroughtn_harv]

I have a Hilti laser level and absolutely love it. you can sit it on anything it will self level out which is too cool for words when doing work around others. Another thing to think about is having multiple receivers. That way you can set the level up and then have different crews using the same level and having the receivers set for their job. As for the nails and screws for the pole barn. If you go to a fastener supply company you can source the fasteners the pros use. We're talking big headed long screws that have to be installed with impacts. Once you use these you will never go back to anything else.

 

[EE_Bota]

My laser level is not self leveling, and although I have done good work with it, I think Harv's mention of the self-leveling is important to note.

 

[CurlyDave]

Before you buy nails, check with your local building inspector. The nails usually used in framing guns are nominally 16d cooler nails, which are 3 1/4" long by 0.131" diameter. A true 16d common nail is 3 1/2" long by 0.165" diameter.

I know when I built my house in CA, the inspector would allow the gun nails in some places, but would not allow them in others. We could buy the true 16d nails for a framing gun, but the gun did not like them at all. A lot of jams, and sparks would fly out of the gun with every nail driven. We could not get HD galvanized that would fit a standard framing gun, only the so called "brite" finish. We ended up tacking things in place with the 0.131" nails and then hand driving 16d nails as necessary.

If you are using joist hangers anywhere, be aware. These require special nails to develop the strength specified in the catalog. You can get the nails for hand driving, or if you want to use a gun you need a special nail gun called a "Teco nail gun" (pronounced Tee-co).

This is something specific to local jurisdictions, and you need to check with the inspector before you buy the nails.

* * * * * * *

Eddie is right that the rotary laser levels come in different quality grades. I have a Bosch which is certainly not top quality, but which is "good enough" for what I need. It was about $800 two years ago. Better ones are more.

The rotary laser level has a lot of uses other than leveling pads. If you want to shoot a road at a specific grade, be sure to get one with that capability. Many will only level, some will grade at up to 5 degrees, some at up to 10 degrees. More capability is more $.

Keep an eye on the lasers, they are expensive and very portable. I have had them stolen.

 

[Steppenwolfe]

The best affordable lasers out there are PLS ( Pacific Laser Systems ). Extremely accurate and all different types depending on the application. I own seven different models. Go on ebay for the best pricing.

 

[BIG DOOLEY]

I have a Topcon RL-H3C red laser.
Bought it back in 2002 and have used it alot.
I have seen them on EBAY at very resonable prices.
It is self leveling and you can perform a cailbration yourself with instructions included or online from Topcon.
Self leveling is very important, manual leveling takes all the accuracy and throws it out the window.
Mine even shuts down from vibration or bumping it.
Requires it be turned back on and check your starting point.
It also has manual slope capability for road work and drain field work...
I have used it for siding, cabinet work, trim work, cement footings and forms, pool installation,decks, fencing,wallpapering, landscape work.....
you will enjoy owning one

 

[/pine]

Nails are all about "purchase"...nails that exceed full purchase can be clenched over which is added work but in some applications it's worth the time...

HD galvanized nails grip well but if they are cheaply coated all the galvanization comes off the head when driven and end up rusting if exposed to the elements...

personally for basic framing I like cement coated nails (the heat from driving them sets the coating (glue)...they do not extract well though because of the glue and many times the head will come off before the nail is pulled..."CC" nails work great for floor framing etc. where squeaks are likely to occur...however the gauge of most "CC" nails is less than common "D" nails...

A pneumatic "palm nailer" works great for driving common nails of most types

As for a laser...I prefer setting corners/grades with an optical level and using a dry line....