Nailing Tin Roof (Dumb Question)

[20 20]

screwing will hold on the flat until the rubber washer goes, and it will.

I'm with the ridge group get longer screws/nails and go high/ridge. Plus the high/ridge area is not where the water snow etc runs down????????????????

 

[herd]

I used to screw my metal down in the ridges and almost always had a problem or two with dents and leaving a slight indentation to water to settle during the wet season. My last job last year, the metal I bought was only guaranteed with a valley screwed installion, and with a double run at the seams.

I will say I like screwing in the valleys much better than the ridges, and like someone said, go look at the commercial installs, all are in the valleys, at least in these parts.

It seems like if you buy a 25 year guarantee roofing systems, screws, flashing, caps, etc., and the washers fails, you would have a solid warranty claim.

These screws do not need completely snugging down, using a good DeWalt, Hitachi, Makita, et al, type drill motor and set the torque at between 14# and 16#.

 

[Big Bri]

screwing will hold on the flat until the rubber washer goes, and it will.

I'm with the ridge group get longer screws/nails and go high/ridge. Plus the high/ridge area is not where the water snow etc runs down????????????????

if and when they go it will be a long time and whether or not there on the ridge or valley you will still have a leak! ! ! on my shed 24x30 wood frame with metal roof i screwed down in the valley, it has been up for 13 years and i haven't had the first leak. i used the old flat metal washer on top the rubber washer. (rubber exposed)

on my store (6000 sq ft metal building) i have all the screws in the valleys its only 4 years old but still no leaks. the screws used on it had a metal cup washer that went over the rubber washer. this keeps the sun from rotting the rubber quicker.

 

[Duffster]

Standard 29 ga. should be screwed in the valley.

That is standard practice for every brand of steel I have seen yet.

I use a screw that has a washer that encapsules the washer so that it can't be over tightened.

 

[Carykong]

installations instructions on my metal roof for my new home called for ridge and valley attachment with self drilling screws. I have used very light gauge galvanized on my utility sheds and barns and reallly have to shoot into the valley. If you install the screws on the ridge, the screw will deform the ridge before the screw is properly seated.

 

[tallyho8]

I think that we all agree that 29 ga. and lighter corrugated metal can not be screwed on the ridge because it will dent the metal before the washer seals. I still think that if you are using 24 ga. or heavier corrugated that it is best to screw down the ridge. It will not dent the metal if you don't overtighten it.

I have an old milking barn that had used corrugated metal put on it after Hurricane Betsy in 1965. It has hundreds of old nail holes on top of the ridges where sunlight shines through but somehow it doesn't leak in the rain. But just let one nail or screw get loose in the valley and water pours through.

Of course, I don't understand anyone using 2' corrugated metal now-days because 3' R-panels are so much better to use. They go on much faster and they don't leak on the overlap and you get the color of your choice. Even though they are screwed on the flat, they don't leak nearly as much as corrugated screwed in the valley if a screw comes loose due to their design.

On my metal roofs I always use treated wood purlins but I cut strips of 30 lb. roofing paper to cover the purlins so the metal doesn't touch them.

It is actually a good idea to get on your roof about every 5 years with a nutdriver and check the tightness of the screws because they can back out a little bit over time. If they start leaking they rot the wood and the screw strips out and you must use a larger replacement one. Don't use an electric one to check tightness, a mechanical one is much quicker and easier.

 

[valley]

Well! It always made sense to me to nail on the ridge. But not having put wiggle strips I have nailed in the valley on my house, barn, guest house and on the shed we just last week built. On flater roofs I would be more worried, my house is 12/12 pitch.

 

[20 20]

if and when they go it will be a long time and whether or not there on the ridge or valley you will still have a leak! ! !

I'm sure I must have got a bad batch of nails{or atleast the washers} for my garage 4 years ago. The washers are falling off like dead fly's so in my experience it can happen at any time. Don't forget these are MAN made and won't be perfect every batch. I'm also very happy that I went with ridge because to date nothing is leaking{knock on wood}. If I had gone on the flat I'm sure I'd of had some drips here and there?????? This is not the 1st metal roof I've done either so I do have some experience. None of the roofs I've done have had a problem. I even helped a guy with his and he insisted on putting the screws in the flat. I have used both nails and screws, screws are easier IMO.

on my shed 24x30 wood frame with metal roof i screwed down in the valley, it has been up for 13 years and i haven't had the first leak. i used the old flat metal washer on top the rubber washer. (rubber exposed)

Like I said I may have had a bad batch of washers. None of my other roofs washer deteriorated like these did???? But I'm still glad I went with longer nails and stayed on the ridge.

on my store (6000 sq ft metal building) i have all the screws in the valleys its only 4 years old but still no leaks. the screws used on it had a metal cup washer that went over the rubber washer. this keeps the sun from rotting the rubber quicker.

That seems like a good setup the cup over the washer. So far you've had a good experience with your store roof, while I have seen the opposite. Now it may have been the installers???? but I have seen a roof screwed on the flat that leaked like crazy.


I like like using the ridge if possible for the simple reason of physics, water runs DOWN hill not up.

 

[tommu56]

check with your mfg..here is a link to one

fabral

http://www.fabral.com/downloads/details-postframe.pdf

their bottom line they say nail in rib screw in the flat
tom

 

[eastexan]

check with your mfg..here is a link to one

fabral

http://www.fabral.com/downloads/details-postframe.pdf

their bottom line they say nail in rib screw in the flat
tom[/QUOTE

Interesting link, Tom.
As you said, it shows the 2 1/2" corrugation which I'm using, as nailing on the ridge or using screws in the valleys.
I also noticed that the 1 1/2" corrugation as using the ridges for both nails & screws.

I don't know the manufacturer of some of the panels I'll be using, since I'll be re-using some pieces. But I would think that all of the light 2 1/2" corrugated panels are pretty much standard.

Ronnie

 

[jimmyj]

Very interesting information. I have always wondered which is right.

I will only offer that you should use screws not nails. I used to use nails and now I regret it if I have to fix or change anything.

 

[tallyho8]

check with your mfg..here is a link to one
fabral
http://www.fabral.com/downloads/details-postframe.pdf

their bottom line they say nail in rib screw in the flat
tom

Very interesting that they always say to nail in the rib or ridge but to use screws in the flats.

I believe that this is because they know that nails will always eventually back out some and leak if in the valleys and they think that screws will never loosen and leak.

From my experience, screws in wood will also loosen a little over time, though not nearly as much as nails, and can cause a leak. This is why I like to check the screw tightness about every 5 years.

 

[jimmyj]

I have always put screws through the ribs / ridges and inspect the roof each 2 years or so. I find that some are always backed off. No idea why, they go into OSB or wood boards.

 

[eastexan]

I have always put screws through the ribs / ridges and inspect the roof each 2 years or so. I find that some are always backed off. No idea why, they go into OSB or wood boards.

Could it be that some of the lumber shrunk a little leaving the impression that the screw backed off? Just a thought.

 

[jimmyj]

That is a good point. It is odd though, there will be say 5 screws in a row and one will be backed off but not the others.

Anyhow, sorry for the hijack.

 

[Opti-Mist]

This past summer I cut an old pole barn in half to move it. We pulled the nails to remove the ridge cap and were a little surprised at how easily the nails pulled out. The building was a good 30 years old so the wood has certainly had the chance to dry out pretty well.

 

[Johndeere3720]

Ive built a few barns with my grandpa and uncles and learned to use the screws with rubber washers. I also rememer that I always have to pick up the screws that fall off the roof durring instalation because they cost around 5 cents each. Another thing is that you should keep the metal in a stack and pre drill holes for the screws. Once you drill the first hole, put a screw in it to hold the metal together so the holes wont move. The metal itself is pretty heavy stuff, It will take a tractor to move it over long distances.

 

[20 20]

. Another thing is that you should keep the metal in a stack and pre drill holes for the screws. .

Why would you do this?

 

[Tig]

Once you drill the first hole, put a screw in it to hold the metal together so the holes wont move.

Well that sure beats my method of breaking a drill bit off in the second hole.

 

[jimmyj]

Pre drilling makes the lines of screws all line up real purty. I did it on a building right by the house that everyone can see and it really is nice and tidy. On other sheds I don't really care so much so I've either done it ad hoc or used a string line. NOTE: You have to make sure the holes will line up with your roof strapping though. If the building is old and not straight it may not work.