Nandina (invasive) Puller?

   / Nandina (invasive) Puller?
  • Thread Starter
#22  
>> Glyphosate is the generic name for Roundup <<

Color me dumb and less that through again...

I did a quick search for Glyphosate and google came back with;

“Risk estimates for glyphosate were well below the level of concern,” said EPA spokesman Dale Kemery. The EPA classifies glyphosate as a Group E chemical, which means there is strong evidence that it does not cause cancer in humans. ... The EPA has concluded that it is not dangerous to public health or the environment.

Making progress on my brushgrabber modification... might be able to test it today.

Beverly
 
   / Nandina (invasive) Puller? #23  
I'd guess if you can get in there with some power equipment, you could dig out the majority of it rather easily. However, as others have said, you'll never get all of the roots. But it will be easier to dig out anything you see with just a shovel, and it should get easier each year.
 
   / Nandina (invasive) Puller? #24  
2.7 acres is a lot to deal with. For me, handwork or chains to pull it out would not be options

I would brushhog wherever I could get access. If you do not want to use Round Up, hire that job out and leave while it is being applied.

Pulling it out is not a long term solution...if it grows back.

The other question is what to plant in its place that will work for your situation. Talking to others in your area will give you better information as to what works or is a waste of time.
 
   / Nandina (invasive) Puller? #25  
Cutting and daubing the stump with glyphosate/Roundup works on most things. You can get a Buckthorn blaster (herbicide dauber) online. If it doesn't have much stump (but nandina does) like oriental bittersweet or 5 leaf akebia, cut above 2 or 3 leaves and daub the herbicide on both the tiny stump and remaining leaves.

Ralph
 
   / Nandina (invasive) Puller? #26  
I had the same issue with my fields of overgrown multiflora rose. I went to a big box store and bought bags of water softener pellets for about $5 a bag and dosed each bush. The salt will kill the target and everything around it for some period. By the time grass grows back, your bamboo will still be dead. I used a 1 cup measuring cup on a pole to put the salt right on the root ball of the thorny multi-flora. Salt is natural and kills stuff (and keeps killing stuff) longer than roundup.

That type of bush would also possibly pop-out with just the tips of a grapple or tooth bar as well. I have a tree/post puller (STP25), and it would cut right through those stems and be worthless.
 
   / Nandina (invasive) Puller? #27  
One of the issues with salt is that it does not evaporate. It has to leach out. And that can take years. Also, it can kill nearby trees, bushes etc...

I had a hunter put a salt block in my pines and it killed 4 of them after 2 years.
 
   / Nandina (invasive) Puller? #28  
So you are saying the trees didn't grow back, so those bushes won't either.... :laughing: Kidding aside, I know what you mean. A cup would kill off about an 8-10' circle. Mine was in the middle of a field, it would be different if you were on a tree line or in the middle of your back yard for sure. Just one way to use "herbacides" without using actual herbacides.
 
   / Nandina (invasive) Puller? #29  
Thanks for all of the responses.

This is the type we are trying to address;

View attachment 670547

As the image shows, the individual stems are too small for the grip pad on the brush grubber to effectively grab.

The "skinned" section near the roots is where the weed wrench was able to grab multiple stems at once and you can see that the horizontal root structure adds to the force needed to extract at least most of the plant.

fwiw, I have tried wrapping the chain grabber multiple times without success... when it's tightened, the slippery surface causes the chain to slide up the stems. That said, I took another look at the chain after your post and I may try another way to wrap that might put more force in the grip.

"Post Rain" is a good reminder.

One of the nice things about forums is that simply the act of posting a problem forces the poster to think about possible solutions and that has happened this morning... I think I have a design to modify the pads on the brush grubber... will take a couple of days to scrounge parts, then cut and weld... will post in a week or so.

>> a cheap hydraulic unit not much more if you have 3rd function on FEL <<

Yikes... my pockets are not that deep ;-) ...and, assuming "3rd function on FEL" means hydraulic, more $$$ ...plus, my bucket (LS 20hp) is fixed. Here's hoping the little grey cells' suggestion works.

Thanks again,
Beverly Howard

Beverly, have you considered a tooth bar on your FEL bucket? There are lots of designs out there, but you mentioned welding capabilities, so consider building your own. You could do a spin on that ratchet rake attacked with straps, making a few ‘teeth’ at whatever length you think would work best with possible different tooth spacing. I have seen tooth bars build from any number of materials in addition to retail available teeth to build ur own and bars ready to add to your bucket.
One relative cheap item that I have seen used is T fence post cut to desired length sharpened and weld to steel plate then attached to the bucket.

My thoughts are going after the roots themself.
 
 

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